Grapple Grapple came today

[SkunkWerX]

No you will have a small amount of oil come out, maybe a tablespoon. Remember you are not going to take the fitting all the way off, you are just going to unscrew it until some oil leaks out then retighten and see if the pin now depresses easily.

If that doesn't work then you probably have mismatched quick connects or a malfunctioning female side (I've never heard of that myself).

Neither have I , but there is a first time for everything??
Curly is saying he cannot depress the pin, so, for now, that is the focus.
I'd unscrew it a half to full turn, then wrap rag around it, then unscrew it until you know you have released the pressure, you will know.
With it partially unscrewed (After a little oil has flowed) then try to depress the pin?
This will prove whether or not pressure in that line is a problem?

If the tractor quick connects are working, then you almost have to look at the new ones as the culprits, whether a mis-match or a bad QD?

I'm hooked, now, I gotta hear the cause of this problem.

Good Luck Curly!!

 

[curly]

I talked to Nelson from WRLong today. He said since I can unscrew the female connector (just the sleeve part) from the tractor that there is something wrong with it.

Anyways, he's shipping me out a female/male that should mate perfectly with the ones on the grapple. I'll let ya know.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[IslandTractor]

I talked to Nelson from WRLong today. He said since I can unscrew the female connector (just the sleeve part) from the tractor that there is something wrong with it.

I've never tried to unscrew the sleeve as it is locked in place by the spring loaded balls. It is not screwed on at all. If the balls fail I think the sleeve would just fall off.

Did you try to unscrew the whole QC fitting to see if there was oil under pressure?

 

[curly]

Did you try to unscrew the whole QC fitting to see if there was oil under pressure?

I will when the new ones get here. Today or tomorrow.


I was able to depress the male and get some oil...and I got some from the female side also...when I unscrewed it.

 

[IslandTractor]

I'm still curious as to how you managed to unscrew the spring loaded sleeve. It's not supposed to unscrew. We need photos.

The first time I had this problem (we all face this scenario of QC fittings under pressure sooner or later), I spent about 30 minutes being too shy with the hammer and bolt that I was hitting to depress the "button". Once I'd hit it hard enough it was pretty obvious though. I still kinda think you are stuck at that point rather than anything more serious.

 

[AlanB]

I will throw a wild stab in here, reading descriptions and not seeing it for myself.

Curly, the detent pin etc you are describing, and the collar make me think that it is one of those fittings that you have to align the collar, over the pin for it to release.

In other words, spin the collar around and around the fitting looking for marks on the collar, and a corresponding mark on the base, line those up and see if the collar will not then retract, allowing you to make the connection.

This type fitting is nice in this application because it helps prevent them from being accidently disconnected by a bush or tree or what not.

Then again, I could be all wet and not understand what you were trying to say at all.

I know the first one I ran across drove me nuts till I figured out what the marks were and why.

Kind of like lining up the marks on a child proof medicine bottle.

Good luck, hope it works well for you when you get it sorted.

 

[curly]

I'm still curious as to how you managed to unscrew the spring loaded sleeve.

Just grabbed it and it easily turned off...like it was not even very tight. I thought it was supposed to do that.

The first time I had this problem (we all face this scenario of QC fittings under pressure sooner or later), I spent about 30 minutes being too shy with the hammer and bolt that I was hitting to depress the "button". Once I'd hit it hard enough it was pretty obvious though. I still kinda think you are stuck at that point rather than anything more serious.

That's still possible...but when I found out that I wasn't supposed to be able to unscrew the sleeve on the female connector I figured it wasn't worth the effort. Figured I would get what I know is the right set on there and see what happened then. But if your curiosity is really getting to you I will sell the set I remove very cheap

Curly, the detent pin etc you are describing, and the collar make me think that it is one of those fittings that you have to align the collar, over the pin for it to release.

The ones connected to the grapple seem to be that way, and I found that out the hard way too. But even if it is that kind, it's lined up because the pin is all the way out and it can't turn to get un-lined up So, the collar can't go down because the pin is out, and it can't turn because the pin is out.

When I get the new set I will connect them to the grapple when there is no pressure (before I connect them to the tractor)...I'll be ahead of the game at that point. If it works then, I put them on the tractor and know that only pressure will keep them from connecting.

 

[J_J]

You could have solved this problem by switching one set of the Quick Connects, so that the fittings that came on the grapple would plug together, and the ones that were on the tractor would plug together. A left side set, and a right side set. For instance, a Pioneer set would plug together, and say another brand would plug together. If the grapple is the only attachment you will plug into that setup with the same Quick Connects, you should be OK, but if you install two sets of the plugs like on the grapple, you may have limited your self to that brand of Quick Connects, and they may not work for anything else that you might use.

Your other option for relieving pressure on the attachment is installing a tee fitting with a valve to relieve pressure.

 

[curly]

... For instance, a Pioneer set would plug together, and say another brand would plug together...

Good thought. And Nelson mentioned that to be at least a short term fix until you get another 3rd function implement.

Then we decided the female on the tractor was broke so decided to just get the ones I know will work, and ain't broke.

 

[jimgerken]

I just received an email from John Kennedy at Millonzi. (for the 48 inch grapple) They want $970 plus estimated 150+ for freight. I did not mention I saw it on TBN. Is the TBN discount for real, or are you guys pulling my leg? If it is for real, that would make the price $727 or so. Plus 150+ freight. BTW, this was for it built with the JD quick-tach scheme on the back, which is very simple. He forwarded a PDF of a drawing showing the JD dimensions, so they seem to be familiar with it. This seems very expensive to me, for what you are getting. And I know the productivity of the grapple, 'cause I have a homemade one already.

 

[IslandTractor]

They change their prices periodically but they also price differently depending on the attachment fittings. QA skid steer is cheapest as I recall and they charge a bit more for specific tractor pin ear fittings.

I don't know for sure that this TBN discount exists but you could try. I know they have given pretty good prices to people who mention TBN but it is hard to tell exactly what they are doing (other than slowly raising prices as they seem to have figured out they don't have much price competition with the 48" model).

I got mine at their first eBay auction for a very low price 18 months ago. I think I've seen prices in the 800 plus shipping range quoted in the last month or so but that might have been a QA version.

 

[curly]

I just received an email from John Kennedy at Millonzi. (for the 48 inch grapple) They want $970 plus estimated 150+ for freight. I did not mention I saw it on TBN. Is the TBN discount for real, or are you guys pulling my leg? If it is for real, that would make the price $727 or so. Plus 150+ freight. BTW, this was for it built with the JD quick-tach scheme on the back, which is very simple. He forwarded a PDF of a drawing showing the JD dimensions, so they seem to be familiar with it. This seems very expensive to me, for what you are getting. And I know the productivity of the grapple, 'cause I have a homemade one already.

When I talked to them (and I talked to several of them at different times), someone asked how I heard about them. When I told the TBN, I was quoted a price, and then the TBN price, which was 25% lower. And that was just within a few weeks. But I don't remember the price now, and it was for one of the HD models anyways.

 

[curly]

I got the new conectors today...hope to get them on tonight when I get home. Update soon, hopefully a pic of a grapple having dinner

If not, a pic of me with a big frown.

 

[bjcsc]

Good. I was curious as to how you were making out...

 

[curly]

Well, I took the old connectors off and put the new ones on and tadaaa...we have grapple They weren't a match for sure and I guess the female may be defective (or may not) because it unscrews at the sleeve.

But anyways, they connected like they was meant to, with absolutely no problem.

But now, the left claw makes a lot of noise and seems slower than the right. The left one is the one that closes last. Could there be air in the lines or anything causing that?

Preciate all the tips and hints.

 

[IslandTractor]

If it is air then opening and closing a dozen times or so should work that out.

 

[curly]

If it is air then opening and closing a dozen times or so should work that out.

I'll try that.

Is there a certain RPM for working the hydralics? Is it faster the higher RPM? Should you ever have to think about RPMS while working grapple/bucket/etc on the front?

 

[SkunkWerX]

Curly,

In general, hydraulics work much better in the top 1/3rd or 1/4th of the RPM range. That's when the pump is putting out near it's highest flow/pressure.

Skidsteers (Bobcats) manuals tell you to run them at Full RPM, period.
At low rpms you will notice the grapple opening and closing slower, just like your bucket raise & curl ewould do at lower rpms.

I won't say you need to run wide-open all the time, but consider the load, if it's fairly large, I would say run near your recommended working top end, which is also usually the range that gives the 540 rpm at the rear PTO.

I guess , pretty much, operate it like you do your loader bucket. On mine small loads can be OK at about 2600 rpm, but for good sized loads I goose it on up to around 3000rpm and it smiles.
(of course, it depends on your tractors working rpm range).

Have fun, and report back with some action photos!!

really glad to hear you got this one solved!! (and cheap, too)

 

[IslandTractor]

I'll try that.

Is there a certain RPM for working the hydralics? Is it faster the higher RPM? Should you ever have to think about RPMS while working grapple/bucket/etc on the front?

For general grapple work I keep RPMs around 2000. I'll bump up the RPMs occasionally when I need max loader lift power but then I'll drop back again to 2000.

I suppose the opening/closing of the grapple would be faster at higher RPM but that is rarely a significant operational consideration.