Grapple for DK-40se/hst; best unit for $

[mtr1950]

Island tractor, left the squeal thread for now, and on the hunt for a grapple. I followed your advice and checked some of your threads on grapples with some pictures. So this DK45SE/HST w/FEL is my first ever tractor, so all is knew. From all I have read, pictures looked at(no videos yet), this is where I stand, Skid Steer Extreme Grapple Rack 72". I have a small place, pasture some trees(fir hemlock maple) and lots of brush. I got Woods brush hog 72", Woods back blade 72", and a tooth bar for the FEL. Need a grapple, later a backhoe. Been spending last 4 days getting to know tractor, driving, pushing stuff, lifting stuff. I have wood heat, been getting logs (fir/him logging salvage) 6 to 10 feet long delivered by dump truck, then cut them and split.

 

[IslandTractor]

Island tractor, left the squeal thread for now, and on the hunt for a grapple. I followed your advice and checked some of your threads on grapples with some pictures. So this DK45SE/HST w/FEL is my first ever tractor, so all is knew. From all I have read, pictures looked at(no videos yet), this is where I stand, Skid Steer Extreme Grapple Rack 72". I have a small place, pasture some trees(fir hemlock maple) and lots of brush. I got Woods brush hog 72", Woods back blade 72", and a tooth bar for the FEL. Need a grapple, later a backhoe. Been spending last 4 days getting to know tractor, driving, pushing stuff, lifting stuff. I have wood heat, been getting logs (fir/him logging salvage) 6 to 10 feet long delivered by dump truck, then cut them and split.

If you read some of the older grapple threads you will see that I have been a strong advocate of "small is beautiful" and that I really don't see any use for any general purpose grapple on a CUT bigger than 48 inches or weighing more than "light duty" (less than 350lbs). I have a DK40 so the same loader and tractor weight as you. I dig stumps, move felled trees and stumps, grapple large amounts of brush, dig and carry big rocks and scoop other types of trash to be carried usually about two to three hundred yards to piles or pits. In the past 5 years I have literally never found a task I could not handle with my 48 inch 280lb Millonzi grapple. The Millonzi is no longer made but the Gator comes pretty close in size and style.

I'll go so far as to say that there is virtually never a need for any grapple that advertizes itself as "heavy duty" on a CUT. Those grapples are designed for big skid steers and for levels of abuse that no owner operator would ever dish out to their tractor. Additionally, and this is a key point, the heavy duty grapples are HEAVY and that cuts your net lift capacity.

It is understandable that people tend to think a grapple should be the same width as their primary bucket but this is not necessary. Look through the posts on TBN and see if you find anyone who bought a 48 inch grapple that wishes they bought a wider one. I don't believe I have ever seen anyone say that but there are people who bought bigger grapples who would buy smaller if they could do it again. The idea that the grapple needs to be the same width as the bucket or width of the tractor for clearing brush is wrong. When you plow into brush for a bite, the grapple pushes the brush forward and out of the way. You then clamp, lift and reverse. The brush ahead never gets a chance to hit the wheels. I suppose if you were grappling very sparse brush that might not be true but sparse brush is usually mowed anyway.

The light duty grapples hold up just as well as the heavy grapples with CUT use. The key to grapple survival is to use it as it is designed and engineered which is to say push forward and lift up, do not twist the grapple with an asymmetric push or lift. It is that simple. My 280lb grapple has survived 5 years (3 with the DK40). If you look at my photos in other threads you will see that I am not gentle with it and use it regularly. About two thirds of my loader time is grapple use.

Sadly John Millonzi died a couple of years ago. His grapple has curved lower tines which I like better than the straight bottom of the Gator or WRLong OBG but those two are the closest genetic relatives to my grapple. 48 inch, single upper jaw (double jaws are not found on 48 inch and not necessary IMO even on slightly larger size).

Again, there is a ton of information and postings regarding grapple use and choice on TBN. Read it before purchasing a wide heavy expensive grapple.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I had extra spacers put in my Gator grapple, so the lower bar spacing is fairly close. One modification that I would like to make to mine is to fabricate a pin-on upper jaw with more, but shallower teeth (ie, something that fits over the existing grapple jaw). The stock grapple with the two long tines grabs brush, logs and large rocks pretty well but clamps down on only two points, which can let smaller things (like, say, bowling-ball sized rocks) slip through the middle. I think a flatter (shallower?) set of teeth would bite down on and capture certain things better.
Another point about the narrower grapple, is maneuverability, especially in the woods. My 48" Gator cruises down the trails a lot easier than my 72" bucket. A bucket tooth can take a pretty good ding out of a tree (or a minibarn!) on a slightly wide turn ( I just tell people those are blazes to mark the trail...explaining the minibarn is more challenging).

BOB

 

[mtr1950]

Islandtractor, any video you can steer me toward? Been only able to find short videos at equipment supplier web pages. Will be spending time reviewing past postings.
rd_macgregor, good info, I like the idea of adding teeth for holding smaller stuff. I have time on my side with this, not needed for a work schedule, just my own home use with the kids having at it as well, both have their own places close by so all get to join in the fun of this machine.

 

[IslandTractor]

I like the idea of a pin on wider upper jaw extension. The downside is that such an extension would drastically increase the risk of twisting the upper jaw if it clamps on an asymmetric object. I just don't find the jaw width that much of an issue as with a standard grapple you always have the option of simply tilting (curling) the grapple back a bit to allow gravity to hold the load in place. Clamshells all have full width upper jaws as that is the only thing holding the load. With the clamshell the hydraulic cylinders are at the edges so there is less risk of damage when clamping an asymmetric load than with an extension pinned on to a single middle upper jaw. Some guys have also specified wider than normal upper jaws from Gator and that might be a good compromise. I think mine is about two feet wide and I guess I don't see much disadvantage from a 30-32 inch upper jaw so long as it had an extra middle tooth.

My bottom tines are about 8-9 inches apart. There are definitely times when I wished they were 4-5 inches and I know several guys have had Gator put in spacer bars for that purpose. Maybe I'll get off my duff this summer and weld in some spacers. It should not be a very complicated project.

 

[Coyote machine]

In my view it would seem a grate could be put across, under, on top of the existing tines and made removable if desired, to allow to catch trash and smaller objects when wanted and removed when not needed.
Sometimes simplicity is the answer to the question at hand?
Thoughts, etc?

 

[mtr1950]

Ok, is the space between the bottom tines flat or is it angled to grab with like a V? I need something that can grab so I can pull up rip out blackberry bushes(briars) roots and all, go forward or up then grip and back or forward. Hope that made some kind of sense, I'm new at this and just thinking outloud.

 

[steve0413]

I agree 100% with IslandTractor. I'm also one of those who has a 60" Gator and would buy the 48" if I had it to do over. However, I have used mine on occasion just as you mentioned above, i.e. to clear briar thickets. That is the only time I think the 60" may do a better job. I highly recommend the Gator grapple and you'll find that they are much less expensive than other brands and will do every thing you have any business trying to do with a CUT.

 

[mtr1950]

Steve, thanks for the advice, lots to think about, leaning toward your's and Islands direction, for sure need a grapple, how do you like your KB2485 BH?

 

[IslandTractor]

Ok, is the space between the bottom tines flat or is it angled to grab with like a V? I need something that can grab so I can pull up rip out blackberry bushes(briars) roots and all, go forward or up then grip and back or forward. Hope that made some kind of sense, I'm new at this and just thinking outloud.

My only real criticism of the Gator is that it has straight bottom tines. I see no benefit to straight tines. My Millonzi has gently curved lower tines which are great for digging under stumps, roots and other objects. That said, when digging out briar and blackberry bushes, you are basically pushing them over and lifting as you drive into it with grapple starting slightly below the surface. You effectively dislodge the bush and only then close the grapple to drag it back out. For that type of work the straight bottom tines should be just as effective.