Grapple Hydralics

[curly]

OK, I'm looking at another tractor now that the Montana was pulled from under my feet

This tractor (Kioti DK40se) has one set of rear remotes. The dealership said they would run a hose from it to the front for my grapple and save me having to buy another valve for up front. He said I could plug into it when I needed the grapple and then if I wanted hydralic top link in the back...I could plug that into the remote. Just can't use them both at the same time.

Is this reasonable? Will I need to use the grapple with something else a lot...or will it seem to be one or the other?

Thanks,
Curly

 

[amigauser]

I think Islandtractor went the rear remote method and he seemed to be happy with it but I would pony up the $$ for the valve.

I have 2 rear remotes on my B3030 but I decided to have the WR Long 3rd Function valve installed when I purchased a grapple. It is a much cleaner install (you don't have 20 ft long hoses running from the rear remotes to the front of the tractor for one thing) and much more user friendly (the grapple control is on the same joystick handle as the FEL control so your right hand does not need to leave the joystick control) vs. having to move a separate lever for operation of a rear remote.

I also think it is safer because most advise on this board is to always have your right hand on the loader joystick when working with a load. You would not be able to do that when you are operating the grapple via a seperate rear remote lever of some sort. You also run the chance of that extra long hydraulic hose getting hung up on brush, trees, etc.

Just my 2 cents worth

Norm

 

[IslandTractor]

I've used both rear remotes (on my CK20) and now a WRLong diverter (on the DK40se). I like both. I'm still getting used to the diverter but it certainly works well. I find there is one annoying feature of the diverter which is that if I click the diverter button and move the joystick the grapple opens/closes fine but when I want the grapple to stop moving my natural reaction is to let go of the button....that leaves the FEL joystick active and so the grapple immediately does an unwanted dump or curl. Obviously I could prevent that by training myself to operate the grapple by only letting go of the switch when in the neutral position so I don't see that as a major issue just a training point.

I know people don't like the idea of using the rear remote because you have to drop your hand off the joystick. However, it is just as natural (once you get used to it...about 2 hrs work) as dropping your hand off the steering wheel of a car to shift gears. You don't even think about it and it is quite natural. The rear remote control on the DK40se is next to your right knee and just down from the FEL joystick so it would be quite natural to use that. I actually have a second set of remotes on mine and the second set has a slightly different controller just next to the first. The difference is that the first has indents so it will stay in position (for a BH) while the second is just spring loaded and returns to off when you let go.

Amigauser points out the long hoses that you need from the rear remotes to run under the seat/over the rear axle then under the floor, up the FEL post and down the FEL arm....sounds wierd I agree but it is actually trivial to do and takes about 10 minutes including ziptying it securely. total cost is just the cost of the hose and fittings. You'll need to buy about the same amount of hose and more fittings with the WRLong diverter so essentially the WR Long set up costs about $550 more than using the rear remotes and is a fair bit more complicated and time consuming to install.

Both systems work fine. I'd be happy with either. In my case the only reason I installed the diverter instead of going with the rear remotes again on my new tractor is that I got a "free" diverter when I won an eBay bid on a WR Long 4n1 bucket...it came with the diverter so I figured I might as well get it put on.

 

[curly]

So both ways are fine huh? The fact that I couldn't use the front and back together is not a big deal, right?

 

[BarryinMN]

I've had the single remote/grapple config for years. Dealer routed the hoses under the cab but well above the bottom of the tractor frame. Not a problem at all.

I generally close the grapple for positive containment particularly if something is near the tractor limits before moving. Don't want that rock rolling sideways in the bucket & rolling the tractor.

The other day I inadvertently knocked down a tree which blocked my road & picked it up in the bucket w/o grapple as I had a hyd dump trailer behind & plugged in.

Be certain the setup is not quick & cheap. Specify breakaway connectors out at the loader front end and the loader QT point so if you forget to pop the hoses off & back away especially from the grapple they simply pop out & no damage done. A good dealer knows this.

 

[curly]

I've had the single remote/grapple config for years. Dealer routed the hoses under the cab but well above the bottom of the tractor frame. Not a problem at all.

I generally close the grapple for positive containment particularly if something is near the tractor limits before moving. Don't want that rock rolling sideways in the bucket & rolling the tractor.

The other day I inadvertently knocked down a tree which blocked my road & picked it up in the bucket w/o grapple as I had a hyd dump trailer behind & plugged in.

Be certain the setup is not quick & cheap. Specify breakaway connectors out at the loader front end and the loader QT point so if you forget to pop the hoses off & back away especially from the grapple they simply pop out & no damage done. A good dealer knows this.

That's what I wanted to know, since I've never had a tractor...I wasn't sure what I may want to do similtaneously.

 

[IslandTractor]

That's what I wanted to know, since I've never had a tractor...I wasn't sure what I may want to do similtaneously.

An extra set of rear remotes is not too expensive (about $350-400 or so as I recall on the DK40se). On my first tractor I did switch back and forth from the grapple to the backhoe because I had only one set of remotes. There were a few times when I wanted to dig out a stump and then move it with the grapple so that was a bit of a pain....decided that two sets of remotes was a good investment but you can certainly operate a grapple with just one.

 

[hill]

If you decide that you want to operate two accessories with one hydraulic circuit you don't have to set it up to require plugging hoses in and out of each. There are selector valves that can switch from one to the other with the throw of a handle.

Seems to me though that it's as easy to go ahead and install remote circuits as it is to run hoses back and forth or use a selector.

 

[curly]

I guess if I'm gonna spend this much money I may as well get the extra set of remotes huh? So, do I just need the extra one up front (is it called a front remote?) since it's for the grapple anyway, and just keep the one in back?

 

[curly]

An extra set of rear remotes is not too expensive (about $350-400 or so as I recall on the DK40se). On my first tractor I did switch back and forth from the grapple to the backhoe because I had only one set of remotes. There were a few times when I wanted to dig out a stump and then move it with the grapple so that was a bit of a pain....decided that two sets of remotes was a good investment but you can certainly operate a grapple with just one.

Does your backhoe fit on the new machine also?