Grapple Grapple research and tentative conclusion what may be best for me; what do YOU think?

[brin]

Others can answer that better than I can... but, yes you have to have hydraulics for the clamps but I THINK you can actually slave off of some of the FEL hydraulics. (Temporarily blocked due to reports of company closure) has some videos and I believe there is one on doing that. Go here... How To Video Demos - Implements & Attachments and look for "3rd function hydraulics". I'm blocked here at work so I can't check it but I think that will answer your question.

OK - thanks for the site...that helps alot. Hydraulics has always given me a mental block for some reason..

First, that is pretty expensive for a bucket grapple jaw. I think these usually can be had for around $300-400 on ebay.

Second, yes you will need hydraulic ports and controls. The simpliest set up is to use rear remotes. Rear remotes can be installed usually for about $400 for a kit and an afternoon of your labor or a few hours of dealer mechanic rates. If you have rear remotes already then you just need a pair of long 3/8 inch hydraulic lines, a pair of shorter hydraulic lines (from grapple to tractor torque bar) as well as 6 quick connects. That will cost you something around $200 over the internet or maybe $300 from a hydraulic shop.

A more expensive option is to put in a diverter valve ($600-700 kit) or electric over hydraulic kit ($900 or so) plus labor (3hrs) if you don't do it yourself.

I used rear remotes on my first tractor and a diverter valve on the second. Both work just fine. The electric over hydraulic is pricey but very nice. If you don't have rear remotes there is an advantage to getting a set as there are many other uses (topping lift for example) that you can benefit from.

Wow, this stuff is not cheap...is it ? It adds up, by the time you buy the thumb and then all the other things it adds up to some real money...I would have to find a shade tree hydraulics guy , I must have one around here somewhere...I sure don't want to pay dealer rates..thanks for your help !

 

[kennyd]

Wow, this stuff is not cheap...is it ?

There are only 2 things cheap about hydraulics: O-rings and advice here:laughing:

 

[IslandTractor]

There are only 2 things cheap about hydraulics: O-rings and advice here:laughing:

You are correct but some of the advice on the hydraulic subforum is really pretty professional. Hydraulics are a black box to just about everyone who has never worked on them but with appropriate guidance it is really pretty easy to work on installing rear remotes or extra valves. Not at all something like welding that requires a lot of practice. You just need to be confident of which hose goes where and that sort of thing can be learned by asking the right questions. Everything else is just tightening fittings. There are quite a few guys who have installed rear remotes or diverter valves as their first introduction to hydraulics. Buying a kit from the manufacturer (rear remote) or someone like WRLong (diverter or electric over hydraulic valve) is the simplest way to do it but you can also (with help from TBN hydraulic gurus) just go to a surplus internet site and get the stuff for about half the cost of the kit. Hoses in particular are way cheaper off the internet in standard sizes than if you go to a local hydraulic shop or dealer.

 

[IslandTractor]

Wow, this stuff is not cheap...is it ? It adds up, by the time you buy the thumb and then all the other things it adds up to some real money...

True. The complete cost of any grapple solution is a minimum of about $1000 unless you already have rear remotes and just add a bucket grapple to your standard bucket. That is one reason it makes sense to really scope out what you intend to do with your grapple set up before starting. If a bucket grapple will serve you well (they are great) then you can save about $500-600 over what the least expensive full grapple costs. If you don't have a very specific repetitive task requiring some fancy grapple, then a very basic $1000 48" grapple will do most anything pretty well.

The valve issue is also worth thinking about. Rear remotes are useful for many things and absolutely work well for controlling a grapple. That is usually the best bang for the buck solution though a lot of guys like moving just their thumb to a button rather than dropping their hand to the rear remote lever. I used both and actually prefer the "4 on the floor" motion of dropping my hand to the specific lever to open/close the grapple. With a diverter valve I sometimes poorly coordinate and open/close when I intend to dump/curl. YMMV.

 

[foggy1111]

As Island points out above.....I have the rear remotes which are operated by the JD selective control valve handle located a few inches from my loaders joystick. I have the JD hard lines kit on the loader that runs from the rear remotes to the front of the tractor where I can "plug" my grapple hoses into the Quick Couplers.

I have never felt the need for a thumb switch or been slowed down or otherwise handicapped by moving my hand to operate the grapple. If I were specing a new tractor I would spec the rear remotes and hard-lines again. Makes life simple...and pretty affordable too. The rear remotes are useful for other things too. :thumbsup:

 

[93Mustang]

I have used my Markham grapple extensively for both picking things up and brush "plowing" and have been satisfied. Like most things, with a little practice you can really get good at picking up brush and logs. This being said there are obvious tradeoffs to various designs.

My thoughts on the Markham grapple:
I struggled at first to pick up much brush until I found a good angle where I effectively curl the grapple over the pile and pick it up from above. This is effective for light brush piles but doesn't work so well heavy objects due to the height of the loader arms. I assume based on what I can see a shorter curved bottom tined grapple would work better for brush pile pickup.

For heavy logs or rocks I just work the grapple under the object and use the breakout force to rock it back into the grapple while holding it with the top claw and feel it works very well for that task.

I also use the grapple to plow and clear brush. The tines when angled properly to glide along the ground do a great job of yanking brush out of the ground.

I use the grapple to pick up random smaller sized rocks i dont want to try and move by hand and other stuff. I wish the top grapple would better align with the tines on the bottom when closed so it would be easier to grab things sort of like a thumb and forefinger.

I feel that the 2k I spent on the grapple/diverter combo has been well worth the money.

I have had no structural problems with the grapple bending or anything like that. I did get an extra set of bars welded in the bottom of the grapple as I thought this would allow me to use the grapple as a rock bucket. I have found the 2" ish spacing is still too wide to be practical for this purpose and the grapple doesnt dig very well but these extra bars may add to the structural rigidity.

FWIW

Dana

 

[Rockgod]

I'm also researching a future grapple purchase, what's everyone's opinions on versetech? I have to agree with with the comments that you shouldn't typically need the ultra heavy duty 3K grapple....

I have the Fabtech/Versatech also (same thing). So far so good, and for $1000/new I didn't think I could go wrong. You can spend as much as you want on these things.

It weighs Exactally 500lbs and is 66" wide, 3/8" steel .

 

[scoutcub]

I have the Fabtech/Versatech also (same thing). So far so good, and for $1000/new I didn't think I could go wrong. You can spend as much as you want on these things.

It weighs Exactally 500lbs and is 66" wide, 3/8" steel .

I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going with. Now to find the best deal closest to me!
thanks all!

 

[nogoats]

After much research on here and other places, I recently bought an Anbo GR-S grapple. It is the handiest attachment for my John Deere 5320 I've ever owned. In three days, I've accomplished more than what I did in a month earlier this summer. Now, my biggest worry is I'm going to run out of stuff to do on the property and my wife will have me doing honey-do chores.

 

[oksteve]

I have a bobcat s250 which i use for brush clearing I use a m&m 84" grapple rake very tough piece of equipment its heavy approx 1000lbs I have worked it hard for 2 years with no problems I also have the m&m 16"treeshear it is very tough as well I also have a brushmonster brand skidsteer mower they work well , but they are not built very well the skidsteer attachment plate breaks off the mower . I contacted brushmonster their sending new mower deck but would not add more bracing , so I would not recommend them for everyday use .