Grapple width

rd_macgregor · Sep 16, 2010

I got the same Markham grapple rake last spring, except I had them put half-inch side tines on it. The shipping sticker came off mine OK, but it took the paint with it!
Initially, I had some trouble with hooking the hydraulic lines, but I've done pretty well recently by hooking the QA up, raising the rake, shutting down the engine, then releasing it back to the ground (moving all the control levers to relieve the pressure). When taking it off, I also lower the rake and grapple the last little way after shutting off the engine.
I really like the skid steer (flat face) type couplers. It is also great to be able to connect the male and female couplers together when the grapple isn't mounted on the FEL, to keep dirt away from them...plus, they always get hooked up the same way each time.
BOB

rd_macgregor · Sep 16, 2010

Oh, also, while these are really tough, they aren't totally indestructible: I somehow managed to slightly bend the grapple. I noticed last time I used it that it was noticeably twisted...the cross-bar isn't parallel to the top of the rake anymore. It doesn't affect performance; for me, it is more like a picture hanging crooked!
I probably bent it on the same trip to the woods where I bent the slow-moving vehicle bracket and snapped off the radio antenna on my cab.
BOB

foggy1111 · Sep 16, 2010

Good info above.

I have considered putting a few gussets in the corners of my grapple "teeth" to overcome any bending. There is lots of potential for stress on those tines if your put a side load on them......Or get going a little fast and hit a rock or stump, etc. A few gussets in the right place may sure help. Those tines get out there pretty far.....

I re-plumbed my hydraulic lines a bit yesterday...and now they seem just right...as soon as I add a little bungee cord.

Yep...that packing list vinyl is going along for the ride....as I cant pull it off...so far.

dstig1 · Sep 16, 2010

Well I got out to use it today. First off, I confirmed that without something to bump against, the QA is difficult to get lined up, but since there are plenty of places to grab and it isn't too heavy, I can muscle it into place....not that I should have to! I think I will weld in a plate there sometime soon.

Now for the other (MAJOR) problem that cropped up - it popped off the QA during use - twice!

The first time the loader was at full height dumping brush, and when it banged into the dump stop, it popped right off and was hanging by the hoses. Not good. Scared the crap out of me, but I was able to get it back on with no damage apparent. Now I was being super careful, and still a bit later, the top hook of the QA popped out. No drama this time, but jeez. I have QA forks (aftermarket) and bucket (Kubota) and have NEVER had this problem before. I think there is too much slop in the spacing on the grapple QA relative to the standard dimensions, and it is possibly flexing too. Not sure. I'm open to suggestions, but I think my approach will be to weld on a shim at the bottom bracket to shorten up the gap a bit. Probably 1/8- 3/16", but I need to measure first to see where it's at. I suppose I could call Gator and ask about return or fix, but I really need this now, not in a week or 2.

On the other hand - when it would stay on the tractor - it was working great and was a huge boost to clearing brush and small roots. I wish I had gotten one of these 3 months ago...functioning properly of course...

rd_macgregor · Sep 17, 2010

You should definitely contact the Markham/Gator folks about that. Once I push the QA locking lever down (on my Kioti DK45SC with 451 FEL), mine is very securely engaged with no noticeable slop.
The issue I have sometimes run into is having the lever fall down (engage the prongs) by itself while I'm lining up on the grapple or bucket...then I have to dismount and push it back up before I can get the bucket/grapple in place.

BOB

dstig1 · Sep 17, 2010

I called them and they are going to send out a couple different thickness of lower latch plates to tack on top of the existing ones and see what fits. The gap in the photo is 5/16" which they said should typically be no more than 1/16-1/8". So I get to try out my amateur welding skills. Yippee

It's a solution that will at least keep me going, but only after the parts get here and I can get that figured out.

For now, I'm going to wedge some plywood in there and wire it in place to take up the gap. That should hopefully hold me for the weekend. Not optimal, but it keeps me moving.

dstig1 · Sep 19, 2010

Updates:

The hydraulic connections are still giving me issues. What I have found works is to activate the valve via joystick, while there is pressure on the fitting. Basically I get the fitting started, put a bar clamp on it to apply some pressure, then go trip the joystick and switch and it goes together easy. If I had a second person handy, I might not need the clamp. It appears to not be bleeding off enough pressure to easily connect unless it is under pressure of the fitting for some reason.

The QA is till popping off a lot. They are sending parts to fix, but I have to use it while I have the opportunity. Not pleased that it is doing it, or that I have to fix it myself on something bought new.

Onward and upward...

Oh - here is the photo I forgot in the last post

KubieTwo · Sep 20, 2010

dstig1 said:
Updates:

The hydraulic connections are still giving me issues. What I have found works is to activate the valve via joystick, while there is pressure on the fitting. Basically I get the fitting started, put a bar clamp on it to apply some pressure, then go trip the joystick and switch and it goes together easy. If I had a second person handy, I might not need the clamp. It appears to not be bleeding off enough pressure to easily connect unless it is under pressure of the fitting for some reason.

Have you tried relieving the pressure from the grapple sidel? It appears you are bleeding pressure down on the tractor side but not checking the grapple side. It is the grapple side I have to relieve pressure on sometimes but never the tractor side after I have opened all the circuits with grapple switch, loader valve, etc. I may have missed where you indicated you were already doing this, so ignore it if you are already doing both.

KubieTwo

jcims · Sep 20, 2010

If you hunt around, you may find a post by CurlyDave where he describes a little buffer he's made for the attachment side. Basically it's a quick connect with an inch or so of 'air space' in a fitting, so that if the fluid in the attachment expands or the attachment settles a bit, there's a place for the fluid to go without building up too much pressure. When he disconnects the attachment from the tractor, he pops these on the attachment and goes from there.

There was someone (possibly also CD) that suggested using a caulking gun as a force multiplier to connect stubborn lines.

dstig1 · Sep 20, 2010

In this case the grapple side isn't the problem, it's ont he tractor side. If I can apply some pressure and then relieve pressure with the joystick, it goes right together. So far I keep a bar clamp handy for that. One of those 24" Quick grips. Line it up, give it a few squeezes and then go pop the valve. It must be something to do with the diverter valve as to why it is doing this. No clue.

Caulking gun sounds like a similar solution to using the clamp. Maybe nicer in the way it can cradle around the fitting.