Gravel Driveway vs Box Blade

[rjwerth]

I've been noticing quite a few new "members" (and I mean 1 post new) responding to very old threads. Seems like spammers trying to create an online history.

I find it very hard to believe a new "member" would post a recommendation for a sponsor's product to an ancient thread as their first post.

 

[/pine]

Many new users find TBN via a search engine like Google etc...depending on their query the search may hit on older threads...Also many new users have been lurking/reading for a long time without registering so it's not like they are unfamiliar with popular advertisers/members...

 

[Buggs67]

I hope that poor fella figured it out already in the past 9yrs.

HaaHaaaaHahahahahahahahah

 

[tbarrand]

I like this website. I have found lots of things that make my life easier and had a lot of fun doing it. I purchased a New Holland TC30 with loader and hoe 2012 from a guy going bankrupt and gave me a great deal. I sold the backhoe for enuf money that the tractor was free. Now I am kicking myself for letting that Blue-Hoe-go. it cant be replaced for anything close to what I sold it for, but it was my first time owning a tractor Live & learn. Back then I had no idea how or why I would use a tractor. its only a few years latter (2018) now and I have no idea how I could go without a tractor. The first day I found this site was 2013 I had just installed hydraulics to make my 3 point usable for grading uneaven ground around my property. It was all new to me and I had a lot of trenching to clean up I was having fun doing it. I honestly never looked at the dates of that post didnt know they had dates. ( it was also the first time I had ever posted anything here or anywhere) If you are reading this you know by now im a old dorky Schmo who just lerned what a computer is, and how to drive a tractor "like that smiley face" anyway I am not a salesmen or anything like that just a guy having lots of fun with a little Blue tractor. yes I know now this is an old post. im having fun I hope you are too. I did laugh when i read the "I hope that fella figured it out in the past 9 years"

 

[Redlands Okie]

Like you I also think the information on old post are still of value, even the replies to them

 

[Buggs67]

One of the first things the "old timers" say when you ask a question is "check old threads; this has been discussed". That's why I laugh.

I'm following up on this because I now have a long gravel driveway to maintain. I have a BB and was thinking of getting a grading blade. The man at the store said he uses a drag harrow to dress his long gravel driveway (and he wasn't trying to sell me one, just conversation). So I'm investigating.

The box blade would be good for moving and distributing grave or a total reno but I'm looking for something to use on a regular basis to keep it smooth.

 

[fried1765]

One of the first things the "old timers" say when you ask a question is "check old threads; this has been discussed". That's why I laugh.

I'm following up on this because I now have a long gravel driveway to maintain. I have a BB and was thinking of getting a grading blade. The man at the store said he uses a drag harrow to dress his long gravel driveway (and he wasn't trying to sell me one, just conversation). So I'm investigating.

The box blade would be good for moving and distributing grave or a total reno but I'm looking for something to use on a regular basis to keep it smooth.

If you like a FLAT smooth driveway, then a land plane is the tool for you.
If you like to make and keep a significant crown (to shed water) then you need a rear blade.
A land plane is fool proof!
A rear blade will take some practicing to hold the grade/shape that you may want.
I use ONLY a rear blade, have used one for years, and am **** about holding a significant crown, to shed water.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you like a FLAT smooth driveway, then a land plane is the tool for you.
If you like to make and keep a significant crown (to shed water) then you need a rear blade.
A land plane is fool proof!
A rear blade will take some practicing to hold the grade/shape that you may want.
I use ONLY a rear blade, have used one for years, and am **** about holding a significant crown, to shed water.

Fried, I have a few questions for you.

First, what do you consider a significant crown? As in how much crown do you have on your drive. How many inches in height per foot width ?

Second, how many inches of rainfall per year at your location?

Third, what type of material is your drive made of?

Thanks in advance.

 

[ovrszd]

.66"
35"
Crushed Limestone

 

[MtnViewRanch]

.66"
35"
Crushed Limestone

These are fried1765's answers?

I'm not asking everyone, just fried1765.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Feel left out

 

[Redlands Okie]

Buggs if your 3 point has the extendable arms on the end (for easier hookups) try leaving one end extended. Also lift one end for your crown. It’s slow but works.

 

[ovrszd]

These are fried1765's answers?

I'm not asking everyone, just fried1765.

Whooppss,,, sorry. I'm curious to hear his answers as well. No Brian, these were my answers. Sorry.

 

[fried1765]

Fried, I have a few questions for you.

First, what do you consider a significant crown? As in how much crown do you have on your drive. How many inches in height per foot width ?

Second, how many inches of rainfall per year at your location?

Third, what type of material is your drive made of?

Thanks in advance.

I am 2000 miles away from my driveway until May, so I can only guess from here.
I would guess that I may have 1"+ per foot.
Driveway is about 12' wide, and sitting here at my computer, I estimate the crown height at 6"+, though it is not uniform over the entire length (perhaps a bit less in some areas).
I have meaningful ditches along each side.
Climate data shows 65" annual precipitation. It is a forested, coastal zone.
The driveway is made up of 3/4" minus crushed stone, about 8-10" thick. It packs like concrete!
The base is 30" of pit run gravel.
I could shoot some grades, with my transit, but I have never felt the need to do so.
My wife gets impatient, whenever I ask her to play rod man.
I just make certain visually, that the rainfall keeps moving, as it hits the ground.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am 2000 miles away from my driveway until May, so I can only guess.
I would guess that I may have about 1" per foot.
Driveway is about 12' wide, and sitting at my computer, I estimate the crown height at 6", though it is not uniform over the entire length (perhaps a bit less in some areas).
I have meaningful ditches along each side.
Climate data shows 65" annual precipitation. It is a forested, coastal area.
My driveway is made up of 3/4" minus crushed stone, about 8-10" thick.
I could shoot some grades, with my transit, but I have never felt the need to do so.
My wife gets impatient playing rod man too.

I really appreciate you answering. I am trying to understand why you are typically so negative on the LPGS. And now I sort of understand, 65" of rain. That water needs a place to go and fairly fast. I wish that I had a far better understanding as far as all the different stones and how well each type stay together and resist water.


Anyway, thanks again for answering my questions. :thumbsup:

 

[fried1765]

I really appreciate you answering. I am trying to understand why you are typically so negative on the LPGS. And now I sort of understand, 65" of rain. That water needs a place to go and fairly fast. I wish that I had a far better understanding as far as all the different stones and how well each type stay together and resist water.


Anyway, thanks again for answering my questions. :thumbsup:

Long ago Civil Engineering degree (highway design) drove that into my brain!

 

[prichard]

I am 2000 miles away from my driveway until May, so I can only guess from here.
I would guess that I may have 1"+ per foot.
Driveway is about 12' wide, and sitting here at my computer, I estimate the crown height at 6"+, though it is not uniform over the entire length (perhaps a bit less in some areas).
I have meaningful ditches along each side.
Climate data shows 65" annual precipitation. It is a forested, coastal zone.
The driveway is made up of 3/4" minus crushed stone, about 8-10" thick. It packs like concrete!
The base is 30" of pit run gravel.
I could shoot some grades, with my transit, but I have never felt the need to do so.
My wife gets impatient, whenever I ask her to play rod man.
I just make certain visually, that the rainfall keeps moving, as it hits the ground.

You have 40" of gravel?

 

[fried1765]

You have 40" of gravel?

I guess you could call it that.
Top is 8-10" of crusher run 3/4" minus, with 30" of pit run beneath.
Pit run was placed mostly using the long reach of an excavator to carve it out from natural gravel side hill, deposit in a 30" trench dug for the driveway, and push the length of the trench with a dozer.
Maybe overkill, and it was not cheap, but it made for a great driveway !

 

[TerryR]

I understand the need for a high crown. We have an average of 53" of rain annually, and our driveway averages 14%, meaning some sections are steeper. I have difficulty creating more grade to the side than down the drive, especially after the traffic throws some of the gravel to the side creating depressions in the tire tracks. So the water likes to run down the driveway and in a heavy rain cut ruts.

But that's why I too am a fan of the rear blade - maintaining the ditches and crown is much more significant for me than smoothing the roadway.

 

[oosik]

I've found that the learning curve on my ROBB is looooong. However - as Bird indicated, way up this thread - lower it and rest it squarely on the ground. Then I raise it with the 3-point until it just touching the ground. Use my hydraulic top link to tip the unit forward/back for more/less angle of attack. Maybe in 4 or 5 years I might become proficient.

I only use the ROBB if I need to move a large amount of material - otherwise its the land plane grading scraper or some times the rear blade.