grinding noise while turning

[marcin]

Another 5020 issue.

Following recent engine rebuild and hydraulic pump overhaul, I had some leaking brake lines. I decided to rebuild all of them as well as the brake valve, differential valve, pressure control valve and steering cylinders as all were badly leaking. I noticed a new problem after running the tractor now - while turning there is a grinding noise (sounds like its coming from differential or maybe transmission) What could this be? I really don't want to use the tractor before this is resolved as I am afraid of messing up something else. Thanks to all.

 

[5030]

Whatever it is, is sounds expensive.

 

[the old grind]

Could your rear axle lock somehow be hung up and not be fully disengaged? You'd hear nothing going straight ahead.

 

[marcin]

Rear axle lock - how would I know if it is engaged?

I also noticed that the brakes are quite bumpy when I push them and the differential is very hard to push down? Do I need to release air from the system or does it happen by itself?

I am not sure if these are related, but before I rebuilt the valves everything worked well and there were no clunking noises coming from the back while turning. Thanks again.

 

[marcin]

Can someone please help me with this?

 

[Snowback]

Never rebuilt that type of diff or pump. Certainly sounds like binding of the rear end/diff. Could there have been a shaft or pin/key that went in sideways or backwards on the reassembly? Did anything require a press to be seated properly? maybe there is just a slight tolerance issue that is causing this hiccup.

If you could jack up one side of the rear, place it in neutral and then secure the machine so that it could not move forward or back, you may be able to turn the lifted tire to confirm the diff is not locked up.

 

[Tx Jim]

If you suspect diff lock is engaged loosen fitting on line(parts key 6) if no oil comes out under pressure with engine running then diff lock isn't the problem. My guess to grinding is diff pinion shafts(2nd photo) are spinning in housing or pinion gears have failed.

 

[jd110]

Since you mention the differential lock valve is hard to push, I suspect maybe something inside the valve is not assembled properly or the linkage going to brake pedals may be binding.

 

[marcin]

Everything worked fine before I took the valves apart.

Something seems to be wrong with the diff valve, as it is very hard to push and release and the small line leading to it is shaking and gets hot really quickly. The problem is not there immediately after start up, but happens after a few minutes - almost seems like the pressure needs to build up? I took the diff valve apart again and everything seems put together appropriately. I removed 2 extra shims I added, but I do not think that is the problem. The only thing that I did not put together as before were the spring and stop (parts 4, 5) leading to the brake accumulator as they were broken and needed to be ordered - I am not sure if these could be the cause? I will put these back together tomorrow and retry. Any further ideas in the interim? Thank you.

 

[marcin]

I added parts 4,5 in the diagram above and problem appears solved. No more shaking and heating of the differential line and nor more clunking during turns.

The clunking still happens when the diff is on during turns - is that normal? Thank you again.