Tractor Sizing GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version)

   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version) #81  
I would edit this paragraph to:

Heavier tractors generally have a larger frame size. That usually means more ground clearance, a wider stance, and larger diameter tires. Heavier tractors and larger diameter tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing snow, pushing a loader bucket into dirt, etc.. Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs, yielding a smoother, less disturbing passage over rough ground.
 
   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version) #82  
...you eat more depreciation on the implements than on the tractor. Passing time with multiple implement browsers is a pain....

Not according to the prices I see on CL...and BTW...what exactly is an "implement browser" ??
 
   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version)
  • Thread Starter
#83  
I would edit this paragraph to:

Heavier tractors generally have a larger frame size. That usually means more ground clearance, a wider stance, and larger diameter tires. Heavier tractors and larger diameter tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing snow, pushing a loader bucket into dirt, etc.. Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs, yielding a smoother, less disturbing passage over rough ground.

Inspiring.

Note changes to Post 80, WORKING DRAFT (#5)

Heavier tractors are built on larger frames with larger wheels/tires. Heavier tractors with large diameter tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires mean more ground clearance, enabling a heavier tractor to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs with less bucking, yielding a less disturbing passage over rough ground.

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than flat land operation and requires four wheel drive (4-WD). Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have adjustable rear wheel spreads; wide rear wheel spreads reduce tractor lateral instability.




Thank you.
 
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   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version) #84  
WORKING DRAFT (5)


The optimal way to shop for tractors is to list your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish your tasks. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models.

For most tractor tasks greater chassis weight is more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend. In subcompact and compact tractor categories it requires a 50% increase in bare tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Heavier tractors have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements. Greater mass of heavy-chassis tractors increases tractor stability when transporting loads in the FEL bucket, the most rollover prone of routine tractor tasks. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes, ruts and downed tree limbs, yielding a smoother, less disturbing passage over rough ground.

Safe hillside operation demands more tractor weight than flat land operation and requires four wheel drive (4-WD). Heavier tractors have adjustable rear wheel spreads; wide rear wheel spreads reduce tractor lateral instability. Rear wheel spreads are always shop adjustable, after elevating the rear.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are offered in one configuration. Most, such as the high volume kubota standard L series, are sparely equipped to hit competitive price points. Others, such as the Yanmar YT235 and Kubota B2650/B3350 series, include enhanced productivity and comfort components.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential applications on one to five fairly flat acres. These "residential tractors" fit in a typical garage.

Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a utilitarian configuration and a deluxe configuration, on a common chassis. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operating comfort ~~~ but you have to pay. Many tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are too tall to fit in a typical garage, even with ROPS folded.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor you eat more depreciation on the implements than on the tractor. Passing time with multiple implement browsers is a pain. ((Ask me how I know.))

For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important. Almost every new tractor is delivered with a minor glitch or two that requires correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment. Dealer proximity is less important to others, well experienced with tractors, who perform their own maintenance.

Horsepower is a primary consideration only operating PTO powered implements.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.

I think there's an error in that sentence. (well, two, but one is written, the other an opinion)....

It reads weird. Shouldn't the word "when" be in between "only" and "operating"?

Nowhere in your article is the word PTO mentioned, but for the second to the last sentance. You've got some explaining to do.

For example... take a Kioti CK30 tractor. The engine is rated at 30HP. The PTO is rated at 24HP. Which horsepower are you talking about in your article? A newbie might not know the difference between PTO HP and engine HP.
 
   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version)
  • Thread Starter
#85  
I agree, final sentence is awkward.

I have edited offending sentence out of existence.

Note change to Post 80, WORKING DRAFT (#5)




Thank you.
 
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   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version)
  • Thread Starter
#86  
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   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version)
  • Thread Starter
#88  
Any speculation on the percentage of first time tractor buyers that buy used rather than new?
Many older CUTS, SCUTS etc. are worthy and still in great shape and not all are 4 wheel drive...

No speculation from me, today.

I learn a lot of industry information passing time at my local Kubota dealer during rainy days when customers are few. But my local dealer does not accept tractor trades-ins nor buy previously owned tractors.
 
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   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version) #89  
Re: GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (development version)

I have been revising this screed for three days.
I seek outside criticism and input.
FIRE AWAY!



The best way to shop for tractors is to determine your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish as many of your tasks as possible. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites.

Hillside work demands more tractor weight than flat land work. Heavier tractors have greater wheel spread making them more stable. Heavier tractors have larger wheels and tires better able to bridge holes and ruts without the tractor rolling over. Larger wheels and tires provide a much smoother ride over rough ground. Heavier tractors have greater inertia to resist rollovers when moving heavy loads in the FEL, the most hazardous of routine tractor tasks, especially hazardous on sloped land.

For most tasks greater tractor chassis weight is far more important than tractor horsepower. This tractor fundamental is difficult for people new to tractors to comprehend.

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices.

Tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight are offered in one basic configuration. Tractors over 3,000 pounds bare weight are generally offered in a utilitarian configuration and a deluxe configuration, on a common chassis. Deluxe kit enhances productivity and operating comfort ~~~ but you have to pay.

I like to spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

It takes a 50% increase in tractor weight before you notice a significant tractor capability increase. It takes a 100% increase in tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider, implements for a heavier tractor is a pain and often a big hit in depreciation. ((Ask me how I know.)) Many who buy too light tractors buy too light implements.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, is a priority for me; less so for others, well experienced with tractors, who do their own maintenance. For most new to tractors a quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is essential. My kubota dealer is six miles away.

Horsepower is a primary consideration only operating PTO powered implements.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.

Jeff,
This is intended to be constructive criticism...

The best way to shop for tractors is to determine your tasks first, then determine how much bare tractor weight you need to SAFELY accomplish as many of your tasks as possible.
I personally disagree. I think you have the first part dead on, determine your tasks first. However the second part, regarding weight, I believe should be 3rd, or 4th...

After determining your tasks, you can now determine what implements you need to perform those tasks. Remember, a tractor is nothing but an engine that drives the tools that do the work, it's absolutely useless without implements/attachments.

  • Once you determine what implements/attachments you need (F.E.L., Mower, Box Blade, Belly Mower, Stumpgrinder, Logging Winch, Haying tools, Snowblower, Planters, Plows etc) then, you can determine what size implements you want to use.
  • Once you determine the size implements you want/need, NOW you can determine what size/weight/HP tractor would best suite the majority of the uses.
    Some implements will be better matched to a lighter weight, high PTO horsepower tractor, and some implements will be better matched to a higher weight, higher PTO hp tractor, while some still will be just fine with a high weight and low PTO hp tractor (pulling for example)

Do you want to pull stumps out of the ground using a chain? Then PTO hp has nothing to do with anything, it's all weight/traction.
Do you want to mow a golf course with a 15' finish mower? Then you want the lightest tractor you can get, with the most PTO hp you can get.
Do you want to lift 2,200lb pallets up onto a 6' high ledge or retaining wall? Then you need a BIG tractor with a high capacity FEL, or a smaller dedicated TLB.

You can't determine anything, until you know what size implements you want to use. Don't determine what tractor to buy first, and then match the implements to the tractor. Determine what implements/attachments you want to use first, then match the tractor to the implements.
 
   / GUIDE: Shopping/Sizing A Tractor (Development version)
  • Thread Starter
#90  
The diversity of opinions offered on TBN are its strength.

Why not start a new thread? "GUIDE: Implement Determination Should Be Priority One In New Tractor Selection."
 
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