GUN SAFE

[Carl Bert]

Ok I found some numbers on the Fort Knox safes. To get one comparable to a Sturdy safe, you need to get an executive model. Very well built, thick steel and loaded with locking bolts. These start at $3,625. That's about $800 to $1000 more then the Sturdy. I like everything about them, except the price, but definitely in the running.

I love the appearance and colors available. Like I said, very well built. Maybe even better then Sturdy. Question is, is it $1000 better? Decision decisions, I started out looking for a $1000 safe, how did I move up to $3600 so quickly? How much is "peace of mind" really worth?

 

[Soundguy]

buy a good safe and get a gun insurance policy... piece of mind.

soundguy

 

[sld]

I have always read and heard that the hottest part of a house fire will be in the middle of the basement (assuming you have one). This is where a burning house will collapse. The best place to locate the safe is on the perimeter of your basement walls. It won't be nearly as hot there and the contents stand a much better chance.

 

[rtimgray]

I picked up a Cannon gunsafe from TSC and it is bolted down in the basement. I have no doubt that there are higher quality safes, but for the money, I'm pleased. I am far more concerned about the "smash and grab" type thieves and excluding little hands from firearms than I am about professional thieves.

I also have a separate insurance policy on my fireams (a rider on my farmowners policy) for what is basically the cost of replacement value. I don't have any really nice or expensive firearms, so the cost of the insurance is relatively cheap. I have the same thing for my shop equipment and stuff like that.

 

[Soundguy]

I have always read and heard that the hottest part of a house fire will be in the middle of the basement (assuming you have one). This is where a burning house will collapse. The best place to locate the safe is on the perimeter of your basement walls. It won't be nearly as hot there and the contents stand a much better chance.

i've heqrd the same and located my safes on exterior block walls.. etc.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

I picked up a Cannon gunsafe from TSC and it is bolted down in the basement. I have no doubt that there are higher quality safes, but for the money, I'm pleased. I am far more concerned about the "smash and grab" type thieves and excluding little hands from firearms than I am about professional thieves.

I also have a separate insurance policy on my fireams (a rider on my farmowners policy) for what is basically the cost of replacement value. I don't have any really nice or expensive firearms, so the cost of the insurance is relatively cheap. I have the same thing for my shop equipment and stuff like that.

My safe purchases were also more for the smash and grab situations, and I have insurance, the insurance wanted the fire rating.. so thus I got fire safes and then had all 3, smash and grab, fire and insurance as protection.

no children.. so didn't have to worry about that.

soundguy

 

[Car Doc]

I have a Cannon its just fine for what I need it for plus its bolted to the floor with a bar across a couple floor joists just in case someone decides to go ATM on it thru a window or a couple gorillas with a HD dolly try to wheel it out.

With that said I know a couple guys who can drill a hole in the lock and have it opened in 5 minutes so I hope someone with those talents doesn't decide to rob me but for the average crook it will keep them out.

I also will point out these guys both told me they look first around the room for the combo written somewhere. Its almost always written close by so keep that in mind when you write the combo down on the wall someone will be looking for it so hide it good. :laughing: (both are trained locksmiths btw )

 

[Larry Caldwell]

[/B]

Then you have to worry about the contents being waterlogged as not all are waterproof or even resistant.

I'm really impressed with the sturdy safes.

If the guns are oiled regularly, getting them wet won't hurt them. I have a shotgun that has seen years of duck hunting trips, and once was fished off the bottom of a river, that doesn't have a speck of rust on it. Disassemble, dry them out with acetone, give them a coat of CLP, and they will be fine.

The stocks will vary by finish, but it's hard to hurt an oil finished piece of wood.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I also have a separate insurance policy on my fireams (a rider on my farmowners policy) for what is basically the cost of replacement value. I don't have any really nice or expensive firearms, so the cost of the insurance is relatively cheap. I have the same thing for my shop equipment and stuff like that.

Right on the money. Collectors have firearms that are difficult if not impossible to replace. I know of one guy who built an entire vault in his basement out of 8" thick steel reinforced concrete (floor, walls and ceiling) to protect a collection that is easily worth over $1 million.

At my house, all my guns are easily replaceable, so secure storage and a good insurance policy are all I need. Photos and inventory live in the safe deposit box at the bank, along with a photo inventory of the whole house, the shop tools and the farm equipment.

 

[rtimgray]

That's good point Larry - if you do have "irreplaceable" firearms, and had a lot invested in them, then it is definately worth the extra money to buy a top line safe or invest in a safe room.

I think you and I are in the same boat. Yeah, I'd miss my 10/22, which was my first rifle, but I could get another one just like it and life would go on.