GX345 won't start

[Carl Bert]

Ok my problem began about a year ago. Every so often, while cutting the grass, the tractor would just shut off, as if I had turned the key off. I would just turn the key once or twice and it would start right back up and continue to run til I was done (about 45 minutes). In the beginning it happened maybe every 3rd time I used it. It gradually, over the year, happened each time or every other time I used it, but would still start up within 30 seconds or so.

I recently gave it a complete 250 hr service ( new plugs, oil, tranny fluid and fuel & air filters). Since then it was shutting down every time I used it, but now I had to wait at least 5 to 7 minutes before it would start again, and that time was growing longer each time. But after it started it would run fine and it never happened twice during one use. I just went down to move it and it will not start at all. I checked for spark and there is none. I can smell fuel so that should eliminate the pump.

One guy said it could be the ignition module. Another said it could be the crank case sensor, which is near the flywheel. Is the coil still a possibility, even though it was such a long lasting problem? I was told when a coil goes, it just goes. Any ideas?

 

[Dutch445]

i think if it was a coil, you would notice 1 cyl dropping, when hot, and if both were bad again, when hot, the tractor would restart cold.
this doesn't sound like your problem, so the module could be the culprit.

some of these engines have an ignitor, i'm not sure if yours does,
but tomorrow I can check the schematics and see if it does.

we'll get it figured out

 

[BruceWard]

There is a solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor bowl. It is part 39 in this diagram

Based on the lack of spark I doubt that this solenoind is the problem. But up to the lack of spark I thought it was likely.

When the key is on and the engine should be running the wire to the solenoid should have +12 volts. I suggest checking it. You might also want to remove the solenoid and check it for function. When +12V is present the shaft should retract.

The solenoid will stop the engine from running if it does not have +12 or does not retract when given +12v.

 

[Carl Bert]

i think if it was a coil, you would notice 1 cyl dropping, when hot, and if both were bad again, when hot, the tractor would restart cold.
this doesn't sound like your problem, so the module could be the culprit.

Is replacing the module a big job?

 

[Dutch445]

It wasn't on my 445,
it's part of the ignition key switch etc,
then unplug some wires, replace with
the new one, but expensive to be
guessing with.

and there IS an ignitor,
check out the attachment

 

[John Deere 110]

I Had a Similar Problem With One Of My Tractors & On The Ignition Connector/ Seat Sensor, There Was a Shorting Problem Causing Stalling & Hard Starting, So I Would Make Sure ALL Wires Are In Tact Before Any Replacements

JL

 

[Carl Bert]

I replaced the "off time delay module" as suggested by my dealer service manager. So far so good. I feel like I am driving a different tractor. I used to have problems with throttling up. I would have to do it slowly or it would stall. Now it doesn't seem to matter how fast I do it. Also My tractor used to stall the first one or two times I engaged the mower. Now it doesn't even hesitate. And of course, most importantly, it no longer shuts down on its own. Well it hasn't as of yet. I am hoping that problem has also been corrected. Time will tell.

Is it possible that, that one module, could have been causing all those problems. Wow, if so, I got away real cheap. $19.95. The manager said there was a long list of parts that could have been causing the problem. All of which cost about $700. Could I have been lucky enough to hit it on the first try? I can only hope so. Thanks

 

[Rlbol]

I have read about this module a few times.
Where is it located and what is involved in changing it?
I have a similar problem with my gx345 where you can't increase the throttle quickly or it stalls as well as being very temperamental.

 

[Davehd2009]

I have read about this module a few times.
Where is it located and what is involved in changing it?
I have a similar problem with my gx345 where you can't increase the throttle quickly or it stalls as well as being very temperamental.

I too would like to know where to find this module??

 

[Carl Bert]

I too would like to know where to find this module??

You having the same problem? Just so you know, it wound up solving the stalling problem completely, but the issue with the engine stalling when throttling up too fast came back shortly after.

I forget exactly where it's located, but I do remember it was a simple fix, and I mean simple.

I will go out and take a look at it today to get an exact location. I'll get back to you soon.

 

[Davehd2009]

You having the same problem? Just so you know, it wound up solving the stalling problem completely, but the issue with the engine stalling when throttling up too fast came back shortly after.

I forget exactly where it's located, but I do remember it was a simple fix, and I mean simple.

I will go out and take a look at it today to get an exact location. I'll get back to you soon.

Yes, I am having the same problem. My dealer told me that the stalling when throttling up fast was due to crud build up in the carb. They ran some cleaner (Seafoam??) through the system when I had it in the last time for standard maintenance and that seemed to work. I might suggest putting a few tanks of Shell premium through it, as that has a lot of cleaners that should remove the build-ups and get it running. That's my standard proceedure in the spring with my tractor, motorcycle, etc.

 

[Carl Bert]

Yes, I am having the same problem. My dealer told me that the stalling when throttling up fast was due to crud build up in the carb. They ran some cleaner (Seafoam??) through the system when I had it in the last time for standard maintenance and that seemed to work. I might suggest putting a few tanks of Shell premium through it, as that has a lot of cleaners that should remove the build-ups and get it running. That's my standard proceedure in the spring with my tractor, motorcycle, etc.

Ok its on your left side, if you're sitting on the tractor. Its a small black tubular part, the size of a "C" battery. Its not hard mounted, its just strapped to the motor with a cable tie. Mine is directly in front of the fuel filter. I can take some pictures if you think it would help. Let me know.

Not sure exactly what "seafoam" is. Is it something that you add to the fuel?

 

[Davehd2009]

Ok its on your left side, if you're sitting on the tractor. Its a small black tubular part, the size of a "C" battery. Its not hard mounted, its just strapped to the motor with a cable tie. Mine is directly in front of the fuel filter. I can take some pictures if you think it would help. Let me know.

Not sure exactly what "seafoam" is. Is it something that you add to the fuel?

Found it and changed it! Runs great! Thanks for the info. Yes, Seafoam is a fuel treatment. Here's their website: Sea Foam | How to Use Sea Foam Motor Treatment

 

[weel]

Hi all new to the forum. i also have a JD345 from 8/98. Im having a similar problem.
over the past few weeks the engine would cut out for a second but not die and return to normal operation this would happen at different intervals. i didn't see a pattern. A week later my father was cutting grass and the tractor quit. I got it started and it ran for a few minutes then stalled again. When it stalled it seemed if the choke was on. Later i checked the solenoid on the fuel bowl. When 12 volts is applied it does retract properly. to prove this i put a bolt in the spot where the solenoid new the tractor runs for a minute and then quits.
Fuel seems to getting to the carb fine and the filter was changed last fall, when i serviced the tractor. New plugs, oil, filter, Trans was also serviced.

if i choke the engine half way the engine will run but not anywhere near full power. I read about the part number am128906 (I think it a cut off relay) and thought that this may be my problem; the symptoms seemed similar to others i have read about. However when i went to replace it i didn't see it anywhere. i do see a small square box about 3 x 3 at the left rear corner of the engine, my serial number of the tractor is 073081, i read somewhere that they changed this part to a different part that incorporate some other electronics after 070000 serial number

Can anyone verify this? I'm stuck on this one. I have drained the gas and changed the fuel filter again. but no change.

thanks bill

 

[Davehd2009]

Yes! Yes! A thousand times yes!! Change that solenoid!! I have had to replace 2 of them, and each time I was having the same problems that you are having. You won't believe the difference it will make. It's an easy and relatively cheap fix (~$20).

Rplacing that solenoid will make you think you have a new machine.

 

[weel]

Thanks for the reply davehd but I took the solinoid out of the system and put a bolt in its place. I had the same result. I was thinking that the solinoid was weak or failing. If that was removed then in theory it should not be a factor. Am I correct on this.
my problem is I purchaced a cutoff relay but I don't think mine has this part on it. Immediate have more time to look at it today. I may buy a solemoid to be on the safe side but I don't think I want to throw parts at it. That's what the dealer does to me when I take it in...

 

[Rocket68]

I have a GX345 that I have had starting issues. Yesterday, I took the solenoid off the carburetor and a tech at my local dealer tested and then cleaned. Reinstalled it and it started right up. Then when I tried to throttle up, the engine stalls and dies. If I hold the choke up about two thirds, I can increase the throttle to open.

Any thoughts on why this would happen?

 

[weel]

i also took my solenoid off and checked it . it seemed to be working properly. i also bought a cut off relay from the local dealer and replaced mine. the one on mine was the original one. the dealer told me that the originals use to be square, which is why i could not find mine when i looked. i repalced it and it had the same problem.
i unhooked the fuel line from the carb and cranked the engine, gas shot out about 3 feet. so i still have a good fuel system pressure. i replaced the fuel pump about 2 years ago.
I removed my carb and it looked spotless inside. i took out the pilot jet and the main jet and ran a piece of welding wire thru them to make sure they were clear. used my air compressor to blow out all the passageways, then reassembled the carb.
the mower started after about 5 seconds of cranking and runs like it did last year. maybe the carb needed cleaning even though i didnt see anything wrong. the mower seemed to be running a little slow at top speed. so i adjusted the cable for the throttle and its all good now.