OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
oh and i coated the trailer 3-4 times over the years with a mixture deisel and used oil about 50/50
Had to redeck my trailer
- Thread starter clemsonfor
- Start date
- Views: 11799
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
but poles are treated like 8x the chemical boards were and they still use CCA!! they last like 40 years too.
LD1
Epic Contributor
They are more expensive, but you can get treated 2x lumber rated for GC. They are treated to the same level as the posts that get burried in the ground.
I used white oak from a local mill when I did my trailer a few years back. I will do the same thing next time or next trailer. I was surprised that the white oak was actually cheaper than treated softwood. Only drawback is it is heavier. But this is a 25' GN that is heavy to begin with, so a few hundred pounds more isnt a big deal. On a lighter trailer it may be more concern.
I also used full length boards too. the deck is 20' with 5' dove. The old trailer was decked with shorter boards so there were alot of places where two boards would butt together. Those were the problem areas. Boards splitting at the ends, coming loose, etc. I didnt want that. So I went 20' boards for the main deck, and 10' boards cut in half for the 5' dove. And used actual trailer deck screws that are 5/16-18 x 2" long and self tapping (not to be confused with self drilling) and took a T40 drive.
Total cost to do my 20+5 with 8'6" wide deck was $315 for the boards and ~$40 for 250 screws
I used white oak from a local mill when I did my trailer a few years back. I will do the same thing next time or next trailer. I was surprised that the white oak was actually cheaper than treated softwood. Only drawback is it is heavier. But this is a 25' GN that is heavy to begin with, so a few hundred pounds more isnt a big deal. On a lighter trailer it may be more concern.
I also used full length boards too. the deck is 20' with 5' dove. The old trailer was decked with shorter boards so there were alot of places where two boards would butt together. Those were the problem areas. Boards splitting at the ends, coming loose, etc. I didnt want that. So I went 20' boards for the main deck, and 10' boards cut in half for the 5' dove. And used actual trailer deck screws that are 5/16-18 x 2" long and self tapping (not to be confused with self drilling) and took a T40 drive.
Total cost to do my 20+5 with 8'6" wide deck was $315 for the boards and ~$40 for 250 screws
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
Here is a picture of the painted supports and then the treatment label. And then a picture of the alomost finished thing. Since i know we all like pictures.
I know this wood is treated as well since i bought it (from Lowes) and saw the tag on the end of each boards. THere PT 2x8x16 that i cut to fit. They said number 2 but some of the boards were stamped #1 on the board but the treatemet tag said treated prime #2 and thats what the lowes spot called them so some #1 must of got mixed in at the mill or thrown in?
I need to post the pic where i showed the old cracked boards end grain and the new replacement. the old one has about 7 growth rings and the new one has about 15 in the same size board.
I know this wood is treated as well since i bought it (from Lowes) and saw the tag on the end of each boards. THere PT 2x8x16 that i cut to fit. They said number 2 but some of the boards were stamped #1 on the board but the treatemet tag said treated prime #2 and thats what the lowes spot called them so some #1 must of got mixed in at the mill or thrown in?
I need to post the pic where i showed the old cracked boards end grain and the new replacement. the old one has about 7 growth rings and the new one has about 15 in the same size board.
Attachments
OP
clemsonfor
Super Member
LD1 i see you into saws. And have some ported ones as well. You have to be on AS...have i seen you on Firewood hoarders club too? I think i have? Another Ohio boy i see!!
This has been known for a long time.
From 1912, about the month tree is cut:
And beyond that, it may be well to pay attention to phase of the moon, too:
Now all we need is for lumber to be stamped with month and moon phase when cut.
Bruce
LD1
Epic Contributor
I see that the lumber on the trailer was treated with CA. Not much experience with that, could b the issue. If it was just non treated lumber I doubt it would last more than 2 years. All I see around here is ACQ, so it must be better?
Nope. TBN is the only forum I frequent. Was on AS for a while, never posted much. Didnt like the atmosphere, and havent been there for years. Only other forum I frequent is plowsite and thats only in the winter months
Nope. TBN is the only forum I frequent. Was on AS for a while, never posted much. Didnt like the atmosphere, and havent been there for years. Only other forum I frequent is plowsite and thats only in the winter months
Old Junk Man
Silver Member
yes its best to cut wintertime wood when the sigh is in the feet. Even firewood cut when the sign is right will burn better. of all the oaks the post oak is the most rot resistant. if you could find some Bo Dock (Osage Orange) it will never rot even without any treatment. I can show you BoDock fence post that where set over a 100 years ago that are still in good cond.This has been known for a long time.
From 1912, about the month tree is cut:
View attachment 432369
And beyond that, it may be well to pay attention to phase of the moon, too:
View attachment 432371 View attachment 432372
Now all we need is for lumber to be stamped with month and moon phase when cut.
Bruce
newbury
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2009
- Messages
- 14,019
- Location
- From Vt, in Va, retiring to MS
- Tractor
- Kubota's - B7610, M4700
But Eddie, you keep acquiring equipment, you keep having to build more!
The new ACQ doesn't last as long as the old CCA in any application, as far as I am concerned. Put in a new front deck, and spilled a soda on it the first year, which we didn't catch until later (froze, can burst under snow) and that section started to rot pretty much right away. OK, I can understand extra food for microbes. Stockade fence with PT rails, 10 years old. Several are growing mushrooms, I have replaced I think 3 posts now. Garden gate posts, 6 to 10 years, all rotted at the base.
30 year old 10x12 CCA deck on the back of the house, under built and rail pickets a foot apart...still standing. I did have to replace the end beam, but it had a large knot in it dead center, and was only a single across the end. Replaced it with a double just before the CCa-ACQ switch, still standing. Raised beds, CCA 4x6 double stacked, 15 years old, still good.
But even better is a rail fence my Dad built 45 years ago, out of untreated chestnut...still standing, last time I drove by the place.
30 year old 10x12 CCA deck on the back of the house, under built and rail pickets a foot apart...still standing. I did have to replace the end beam, but it had a large knot in it dead center, and was only a single across the end. Replaced it with a double just before the CCa-ACQ switch, still standing. Raised beds, CCA 4x6 double stacked, 15 years old, still good.
But even better is a rail fence my Dad built 45 years ago, out of untreated chestnut...still standing, last time I drove by the place.
