Had to redeck my trailer

[clemsonfor]

I bought a new car hauler typer trailer in 2009. I noticed some rot a few weeks back on some of the boards. I was told they were treated and assumed that but then i started to question that as the boards only lasted 6 years. Then i called the maker of the trailer and they said they never made the trailer i have with untreated boards...so i beleived them since why would they lie and i did not tell them i had rotted boards nor told them i wanted them to fix it or anything. Then i found a few more than the original 2 boards that were rotted so i made my mind up that they were not treated.

I was going to replace just the bad ones till i made my mind up that the trailer was untreated then i decided to do them all cause 4 of the 11 boards were rotted and one was split bad so i needed to do 5 at a minimum.

I could not find a treatment stamp anywhere on the boards nor a tag when i pulled the caps off the wood to remove the long boards. I was going to leave the dovetail as it looked fine but then it looked so bad compared to my new boards i pulled them off to replace them. Thats when i saw a tag on the ends of one of them. they were treated. I could not beleive that treated wood on a trailer kept in a sunny location and kept pretty free from leaves and mud only lasted 6 years!!!

Anyone had to redeck thier trailer or home deck in this short of a time? This new treatement chemicals makes me wish we still had CCA dimensional lumber!!!!

Pictures to follow.

 

[clemsonfor]

The pictures with the red circles are the rot boards. You can see the one flipped up that was the first one i noticed at the back. The one on the ground that was rotted was one of the boards that was rotted up at the front.


This trailer i kept the leaves off mostly the last few years i would oly get them off a few times a year but the only leaves were really in the cracks between the edge board and the metal. All the ones on the deck i removed or blew off. I would use the hose when i did clean it to get the leaves out of that area when i removed it. And when i say leaves sat in it it was just what would get hung in the cracks not like a giant pile of them.

 

[EddieWalker]

I bought my trailer brand new with what the owner of the company told me was with Wolmanized wood. I'm not sure of the spelling, but from what I understand, it's the standard type of treated wood they use for trailers. It lasted about five years, with a few boards breaking and others showing serious rot and decay. The worse part of it was at the end of the trailer where it was held in place with a piece of angle iron. I felt that the angle iron was holding moisture under it and allowing the wood to rot at the end grain.

I removed the angle iron and all the boards. Some of the screws just broke off, so I used my grinder to get rid of what was sticking up. I primed and painted the metal. Instead of using self tapping screws, I drilled through the boards and used galvanized carriage bolts. I know for a fact that I used PT lumber because I bought it myself. It's been about 8 years, give or take, and one board is showing signs of rot at the end grain. I did not put that piece of angle iron back on to hold down the ends since I wanted them exposed so they would dry out quickly after it rained.

I don't understand why the lumber on a trailer doesn't last as long as it does on a deck, but something is happening that tells me there is a difference. My long term goal is to build a place to get everything under roof. Trailer, tractors, implements and just everything I own. The sun and Mother Nature is just brutal over time and nothing will last if left outside.

Eddie

 

[oldballs]

In 16 years my trailer is on its third deck. The OE was White Oak treated with linseed oil. It last about 6 years until the ends of the boards rotted noticeably. The second deck of PT did the same. Both were treated with linseed oil at least once per year. But both were also used to haul gravel from the quarry and various other dirt/rock projects.

I don't haul rock etc. on this last deck and just use it to trailer my B2620 for mowing. I expect it to last longer.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[GreenYellow]

My trailer is on it's 2nd deck in 12 years. The current one only has a couple of years left... I keep the leaves off of it, but it gets full sun and rain. I use it at least once a week.
The current deck is regular PT 2x8's. They're not rotting, but they're getting very very dry and white.

My granddad used to paint his trailer floors with used motor oil. He'd just mop it on and let is soak in. The floors lasted FOREVER, but they were dirty. You wouldn't want to haul furniture on it. :laughing:
I would love to do that to mine, but sometimes I haul things that can't get stained up.

I guess $200-300 for a floor every 6-8 years is just the price of owning a trailer. It's less than tires...

 

[Old Junk Man]

Trees cut in the summertime when the sap is up will rot even if treated. You can cut in the winter when the sap is down and it will be pretty rot resistant without treatment. rot is caused by living organisms that must have sap or moisture to live. I use wintertime cut post oak and let it air dry for enough time it developes cracks. then paint liberally with used engine oil. stand it up and get as much oil as possible in the ends. think about this electric poles are treated and they sometimes rot.

 

[GreenYellow]

Another testament to granddad's oil treatment... In the 60's he built a doghouse out of regular scrap plywood. It's sitting right on the ground and under a lot of trees in a low area -- perfect for rot. he painted it with oil a couple times, and it's still there today, in pretty decent shape. The barn, built right beside it, fell in 20 years ago.

It just works...

 

[Old Junk Man]

the oil seals of the oxygen and rot spores cant survive. the termites live off eating rot spores. the termites bring in moisture and chew wood they create a ideal environment for their food (rot spores to live.

 

[aeblank]

My dad's trailer is probably 15 years old and he hasn't replaced a board. I think the key is storing it inside. His is in a polebarn when not in use. I'd bet anything that it lets the flat areas that support the boards (angle iron) to DRY FULLY. When outside, well, not so much.

We've used it plenty in the winter, so the paint is CRAP though.

 

[clemsonfor]

I bought my trailer brand new with what the owner of the company told me was with Wolmanized wood. I'm not sure of the spelling, but from what I understand, it's the standard type of treated wood they use for trailers. It lasted about five years, with a few boards breaking and others showing serious rot and decay. The worse part of it was at the end of the trailer where it was held in place with a piece of angle iron. I felt that the angle iron was holding moisture under it and allowing the wood to rot at the end grain.

I removed the angle iron and all the boards. Some of the screws just broke off, so I used my grinder to get rid of what was sticking up. I primed and painted the metal. Instead of using self tapping screws, I drilled through the boards and used galvanized carriage bolts. I know for a fact that I used PT lumber because I bought it myself. It's been about 8 years, give or take, and one board is showing signs of rot at the end grain. I did not put that piece of angle iron back on to hold down the ends since I wanted them exposed so they would dry out quickly after it rained.

I don't understand why the lumber on a trailer doesn't last as long as it does on a deck, but something is happening that tells me there is a difference. My long term goal is to build a place to get everything under roof. Trailer, tractors, implements and just everything I own. The sun and Mother Nature is just brutal over time and nothing will last if left outside.

Eddie

Mine two has the angle iron ends. there were three that had rot at the ends...see pics but all the others looked solid no sign of rot. I too painted the whole underside with rustoleum brush on paint. I only had about 6 screws to break. I actually reused all the ones i could and they tightened fine. I put the angle back on but having trouble getting some of the screw to pull tight i think i may use some bolts in those spots.

I wish i could have it under cover but i like you dont have the space currently. I guess technically the fastners are wrong cause there not dipped galvanized but the last ones showed no sign of unordinary rust so i used them. I got a box of new ones to replace the ones that were stripped/broken.

 

[clemsonfor]

oh and i coated the trailer 3-4 times over the years with a mixture deisel and used oil about 50/50

 

[clemsonfor]

Trees cut in the summertime when the sap is up will rot even if treated. You can cut in the winter when the sap is down and it will be pretty rot resistant without treatment. rot is caused by living organisms that must have sap or moisture to live. I use wintertime cut post oak and let it air dry for enough time it developes cracks. then paint liberally with used engine oil. stand it up and get as much oil as possible in the ends. think about this electric poles are treated and they sometimes rot.

but poles are treated like 8x the chemical boards were and they still use CCA!! they last like 40 years too.

 

[LD1]

They are more expensive, but you can get treated 2x lumber rated for GC. They are treated to the same level as the posts that get burried in the ground.

I used white oak from a local mill when I did my trailer a few years back. I will do the same thing next time or next trailer. I was surprised that the white oak was actually cheaper than treated softwood. Only drawback is it is heavier. But this is a 25' GN that is heavy to begin with, so a few hundred pounds more isnt a big deal. On a lighter trailer it may be more concern.

I also used full length boards too. the deck is 20' with 5' dove. The old trailer was decked with shorter boards so there were alot of places where two boards would butt together. Those were the problem areas. Boards splitting at the ends, coming loose, etc. I didnt want that. So I went 20' boards for the main deck, and 10' boards cut in half for the 5' dove. And used actual trailer deck screws that are 5/16-18 x 2" long and self tapping (not to be confused with self drilling) and took a T40 drive.

Total cost to do my 20+5 with 8'6" wide deck was $315 for the boards and ~$40 for 250 screws

 

[clemsonfor]

Here is a picture of the painted supports and then the treatment label. And then a picture of the alomost finished thing. Since i know we all like pictures.

I know this wood is treated as well since i bought it (from Lowes) and saw the tag on the end of each boards. THere PT 2x8x16 that i cut to fit. They said number 2 but some of the boards were stamped #1 on the board but the treatemet tag said treated prime #2 and thats what the lowes spot called them so some #1 must of got mixed in at the mill or thrown in?

I need to post the pic where i showed the old cracked boards end grain and the new replacement. the old one has about 7 growth rings and the new one has about 15 in the same size board.

 

[clemsonfor]

LD1 i see you into saws. And have some ported ones as well. You have to be on AS...have i seen you on Firewood hoarders club too? I think i have? Another Ohio boy i see!!

 

[bcp]

Trees cut in the summertime when the sap is up will rot even if treated. You can cut in the winter when the sap is down and it will be pretty rot resistant without treatment. rot is caused by living organisms that must have sap or moisture to live. I use wintertime cut post oak and let it air dry for enough time it developes cracks. then paint liberally with used engine oil. stand it up and get as much oil as possible in the ends. think about this electric poles are treated and they sometimes rot.

This has been known for a long time.

From 1912, about the month tree is cut:



And beyond that, it may be well to pay attention to phase of the moon, too:



Now all we need is for lumber to be stamped with month and moon phase when cut.

Bruce

 

[LD1]

I see that the lumber on the trailer was treated with CA. Not much experience with that, could b the issue. If it was just non treated lumber I doubt it would last more than 2 years. All I see around here is ACQ, so it must be better?

LD1 i see you into saws. And have some ported ones as well. You have to be on AS...have i seen you on Firewood hoarders club too? I think i have? Another Ohio boy i see!!

Nope. TBN is the only forum I frequent. Was on AS for a while, never posted much. Didnt like the atmosphere, and havent been there for years. Only other forum I frequent is plowsite and thats only in the winter months

 

[Old Junk Man]

This has been known for a long time.

From 1912, about the month tree is cut:

View attachment 432369

And beyond that, it may be well to pay attention to phase of the moon, too:

View attachment 432371 View attachment 432372

Now all we need is for lumber to be stamped with month and moon phase when cut.

Bruce

yes its best to cut wintertime wood when the sigh is in the feet. Even firewood cut when the sign is right will burn better. of all the oaks the post oak is the most rot resistant. if you could find some Bo Dock (Osage Orange) it will never rot even without any treatment. I can show you BoDock fence post that where set over a 100 years ago that are still in good cond.

 

[newbury]

<snip> My long term goal is to build a place to get everything under roof. Trailer, tractors, implements and just everything I own. The sun and Mother Nature is just brutal over time and nothing will last if left outside.

Eddie

But Eddie, you keep acquiring equipment, you keep having to build more!

 

[GLyford]

The new ACQ doesn't last as long as the old CCA in any application, as far as I am concerned. Put in a new front deck, and spilled a soda on it the first year, which we didn't catch until later (froze, can burst under snow) and that section started to rot pretty much right away. OK, I can understand extra food for microbes. Stockade fence with PT rails, 10 years old. Several are growing mushrooms, I have replaced I think 3 posts now. Garden gate posts, 6 to 10 years, all rotted at the base.

30 year old 10x12 CCA deck on the back of the house, under built and rail pickets a foot apart...still standing. I did have to replace the end beam, but it had a large knot in it dead center, and was only a single across the end. Replaced it with a double just before the CCa-ACQ switch, still standing. Raised beds, CCA 4x6 double stacked, 15 years old, still good.

But even better is a rail fence my Dad built 45 years ago, out of untreated chestnut...still standing, last time I drove by the place.