Hardfacing rods

turbo466 · Feb 14, 2011

I went to the hardware store to see about some hardfacing rods for my skidsteer bucket. They came in packages of five rods and cost seven bucks. I thought this is a bit pricey. Does anyone know of a cheaper price for a decent product? These I think said "wear 60" and were made by radnor.

Also i never tried hardfacing and could use some pointers on type of rod and technique etc. I would mainly do stuff around the farm like FEL buckets and plows.

thanks in advance

Shield Arc · Feb 14, 2011

When ever you buy small quantities of rod / wire you'll pay a huge premium! Just a fact of life with welding.

Here is how I hard faced the bucket for my backhoe. You will receive a multitude of opinions on technique for hard facing.:laughing:

You'll want to clean the bucket real good, hard facing rod doesn't like dirt / rust.

Stoody 31, is very good choice for sandy and abrasive soil.

turbo466 · Feb 14, 2011

I would be interested in buying 5 or 10 lb. the local store sells regular rods in 5 lb. packs at decent price, but special ones in only 5 rod packets

Shield Arc · Feb 14, 2011

Google Product Search.
Hard facing welding rod - Google Search

Rockman · Feb 14, 2011

Turbo466,
I always like to use Mckay hardalloy 118 for hardfacing, you can buy it at your local welding supply store in 10 lb. cans.

Kevin

wvpolekat · Feb 14, 2011

WeldingDepot -- Search results

http://www.ramweldingsupply.com/products-list.mcic?c=98&m=

Just googled "welding supplies" and found these.

PILOON · Feb 14, 2011

Definitely go to a welding supply location and not a box store.
Standard pack should be 10 lbs.

gwdixon · Feb 14, 2011

I also use Stoody 31 and also the tungsten Stoody (forgot the name/number). Talk about expensive!! Bought it in 10 pound lots over the Internet.

Anyway, you don't want the hardfacing to mix much with the softer base metal to contaminate the hardening. That is one reason a second coat is recommended. DC+ seems to work well for that result since the penetration is less.

If you have a sharp edge you really have to weave in a "U" pattern to let the edge cool enough to keep from being melted away - at least that is my experience.

Most hardfacing is best laid down flat (1F, 1G) since it tends to run.

Stoody 31 takes a healthy dose of amperage so you have to have enough to run it depending on diamenter. A Google search will have plenty of information.

There are lots of people who hardface with 7018 and it works just fine. Simple to reapply and in any position.

Gary Fowler · Feb 16, 2011

With 7018 your wont get any hardening, just base metal build up to replace the worn away metal. 7018 is very ductile rod and hardnesses are similar to mild steel plate. True hardfacing rods will be expensive. You should weigh the cost versus replacement of the item. For bucket teeth it may be cheaper to just replace the teeth as they wear away if they are the replacement type. Unless you have commercial type backhoe buckets or Front end loader used commercially 10-12 hours a day in abrasive soils, it may not be worthwhile to do hardfacing especially on home use equipment.

oldnslo · Feb 16, 2011

Does any body else have problems with the parts getting brittle after the hardsurface is applied? I realize process/progress has probably changed in the last 20 years but I real problems with plow shares that where "Factory hard surfaced" breaking Vs wearing down. Went back to plain jane shares and never broke another one. Factory would not warranty them either at that time. Can't remember the brand or even know if they still exist.

Roy

yomax4 · Feb 16, 2011

Call, 800 426-1888. choose option 2 and wait til you hear the option for Stoody Tech. They will Gladly answere all of your questions and solve all of your troubles..

Gary Fowler · Feb 17, 2011

I did a large Front end load blade once. THey wanted the full bevelled surface hardsurfaced. I preheated it to 200F and started to coat just the cutting edge, after about 4 feet of weld, the shrinkage busted the blade in the middle. Those welds are so hard and brittle that they will break off rather than bend. Just need to X X pattern them rather than try to make a solid weld like I was doing. I hear that there is a hardsurfacing process where they use a powder with an oxyacetylene flame to coat materials that works without overheating, but I have never seen it done.

gwdixon · Feb 17, 2011

Gary Fowler said:
With 7018 your wont get any hardening, just base metal build up to replace the worn away metal. 7018 is very ductile rod and hardnesses are similar to mild steel plate. True hardfacing rods will be expensive.

Yea, I shouldn't have used the term "hardfacing", but rather something like "wear buffer" or "build up" (as you stated).

7018 is much cheaper than hardfacing rods and needs replenishing occasionally but for non-commercial uses it works to keep the original piece somewhat protected.

Mark @ Everlast · Feb 17, 2011

A cheaper way though not that cheap in reality is using stainless 309l rods to build up. They have good wear ability, and it won't rust.:laughing:

rjmack · Feb 17, 2011

low alloy rods might be a workable compromise. ( 9018, arctec 223 etc)

bear in mind, you would want to run them a bit cold and stack them up in high stringers rather than weave them wide or overlap multiple passes, except where you overlap a previous bead on an x pattern.

FarmerPaul · Mar 3, 2011

Have been using Hardfacing rods from Lincoln, called wearshield abr . Have been using them to build up mow boards and points on our kongskilde plow. It is fairly easy to apply and does a very good job on extending plowpoint life. ( also use this rod to build up points for a 7 shank deep ripper a friend pulls with a quadra trac )

Our clay soils are hard on metal if conditions are dry. Plow points / mowboards are so hot you can fry an egg on them. Th HFacing really seems to help.

As with most hard facing rods they produce a lot of smoke . welding should be done with an exhaust fan or out side in a semi open area.

Here is a link for the lincoln HF rods----

Wearshield Hardfacing Stick Electrode

Teikas Dad · Feb 20, 2013

Resurrecting an old thread, but.... I know you can hard face with a stick welder. Is it possible to do it with a MIG welder? I don't stick weld and was wondering if anyone makes a hard face wire for a MIG?

Shield Arc · Feb 20, 2013

I've never actually ran wire hard facing, got all set up to do a clam bucket one time, and got transferred to another job before ever pulling the trigger.
Lincoln has some.
Lincoreｮ 60-G