Hardfacing rods

[turbo466]

I went to the hardware store to see about some hardfacing rods for my skidsteer bucket. They came in packages of five rods and cost seven bucks. I thought this is a bit pricey. Does anyone know of a cheaper price for a decent product? These I think said "wear 60" and were made by radnor.

Also i never tried hardfacing and could use some pointers on type of rod and technique etc. I would mainly do stuff around the farm like FEL buckets and plows.

thanks in advance

 

[Shield Arc]

When ever you buy small quantities of rod / wire you'll pay a huge premium! Just a fact of life with welding.

Here is how I hard faced the bucket for my backhoe. You will receive a multitude of opinions on technique for hard facing.:laughing:

You'll want to clean the bucket real good, hard facing rod doesn't like dirt / rust.

Stoody 31, is very good choice for sandy and abrasive soil.

 

[turbo466]

I would be interested in buying 5 or 10 lb. the local store sells regular rods in 5 lb. packs at decent price, but special ones in only 5 rod packets

 

[Shield Arc]

Google Product Search.
Hard facing welding rod - Google Search

 

[Rockman]

Turbo466,
I always like to use Mckay hardalloy 118 for hardfacing, you can buy it at your local welding supply store in 10 lb. cans.

Kevin

 

[wvpolekat]

WeldingDepot -- Search results

http://www.ramweldingsupply.com/products-list.mcic?c=98&m=

Just googled "welding supplies" and found these.

 

[PILOON]

Definitely go to a welding supply location and not a box store.
Standard pack should be 10 lbs.

 

[gwdixon]

I also use Stoody 31 and also the tungsten Stoody (forgot the name/number). Talk about expensive!! Bought it in 10 pound lots over the Internet.

Anyway, you don't want the hardfacing to mix much with the softer base metal to contaminate the hardening. That is one reason a second coat is recommended. DC+ seems to work well for that result since the penetration is less.

If you have a sharp edge you really have to weave in a "U" pattern to let the edge cool enough to keep from being melted away - at least that is my experience.

Most hardfacing is best laid down flat (1F, 1G) since it tends to run.

Stoody 31 takes a healthy dose of amperage so you have to have enough to run it depending on diamenter. A Google search will have plenty of information.

There are lots of people who hardface with 7018 and it works just fine. Simple to reapply and in any position.

 

[Gary Fowler]

With 7018 your wont get any hardening, just base metal build up to replace the worn away metal. 7018 is very ductile rod and hardnesses are similar to mild steel plate. True hardfacing rods will be expensive. You should weigh the cost versus replacement of the item. For bucket teeth it may be cheaper to just replace the teeth as they wear away if they are the replacement type. Unless you have commercial type backhoe buckets or Front end loader used commercially 10-12 hours a day in abrasive soils, it may not be worthwhile to do hardfacing especially on home use equipment.

 

[oldnslo]

Does any body else have problems with the parts getting brittle after the hardsurface is applied? I realize process/progress has probably changed in the last 20 years but I real problems with plow shares that where "Factory hard surfaced" breaking Vs wearing down. Went back to plain jane shares and never broke another one. Factory would not warranty them either at that time. Can't remember the brand or even know if they still exist.

Roy