I hope you guys are right about the bad casting. I only said aluminum because it didn't have any weight to it. It didn't feel like cast iron. The pins that hold the upper link in place are all orginal JD pins. I didn't see any places on the lift arms where the pin could have contacted them. I'm calling my dealer first thing in the morning. He's been really good to me and I hope there isn't any problems. This could be one costly repair if not covered. I'll keep you guys updated.
Has this happened to anyone else..
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dcyrilc
Elite Member
Please do. I'm really curious to hear how this comes out.
beenthere
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And it won't likely be a dealer decision to replace it or not. I think that will be a Deere decision.
Being on the good side of the dealer will get him to pitch a good story on your behalf.
I'm still sure Deere will make it right for you..with a replacement part.
Being on the good side of the dealer will get him to pitch a good story on your behalf.
I'm still sure Deere will make it right for you..with a replacement part.
whistlepig
Elite Member
I doubt this being cast aluminum. If it is John Deere needs a good spanking. It matters not how the pins were located. This is the use the casting was designed for. Tell me I put my pins in the wrong way? I think not.
RoyJackson
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Easy way to find out if it's iron or steel...use a magnet.
It looks like aluminum to me, but pictures aren't always worth a thousand words.
It looks like aluminum to me, but pictures aren't always worth a thousand words.
beenthere
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I understood the pin reference to be losing a lynch pin keeper, allowing the pin to slip out of one side of the casting, thus transferring all the forces to the other (and possibly coming out far enough to contact the rocker arm).
I've also seen where losing lynch pin keepers being torn off with brush on the lower lift arms, allowing the attachment to swing off to one side - - putting lots of side stress on the remaining two connecting points (I replaced my lynch pins with bolts and lock nuts).
Another top arm stress (under compression) is when using a single toothed subsoiler on the 3 ph, as some I've seen do not trail straight and flop from side to side. I now chain mine to the drawbar to do the pulling. Didn't want to risk doing damage to the top arm casting.
i checked mine today, it's iron. but, i noticed the paint peeling off of the rear (final drive?) housing...#6, and it looked aluminum. magnet doesn't stick, so i guess it is.
seems like a bad place to not have iron?
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Cocre
Gold Member
The 3x20 series and the 447 hoe does not use a sub frame, it uses adapter plates that bolt to each side of the rear axle. The toplink is not used in any fashion to lift or support the hoe.
Called dealer yesterday morning. He said that it sounds like a warranty issue to him an he would get the part on order. I seem to still have time remaining on my factory warranty. He was going to check to make sure. I never heard back, so I'm guessing I did. I put a magnet on the bracket that broke and it stuck to it. Actually, it grabbed really strong. so I'm guessing cast iron or cast steel? I also have a 447 hoe. I'll check around the mounting plates for any cracks or paint chippage just to be safe.