Box Scraper hauling logs

   / hauling logs #41  
I have a log arch I use with an ATV, I built it that size because I didn't have the tractor at the time.

The tree deflectors in front of the wheels are a real time saver, before I added those I spent a lot of time swearing and trying to shift loads sideways. Remember, the arch won't back up easily (at all) with a log loaded on it. With them added, you can hit a tree with the arch while cornering and the whole arch simply shifts a few feet sideways and you keep going.

If there's one drawback to it, it's the problem of handling big wood without a winch or hydraulics. If you wanted to add a hydraulic winch to an arch and power it from the tractor hydraulics, that would definitely help.

One thing to consider is this, however: By the time you build or buy an arch (mine cost me about $200), add a winch, cable, chain etc, you can buy a good used logging winch for not a lot more money.

I bought a new-to-me Norse 290 (6500 lb pull) that the previous owner had bought new but never used. For less than $3K I have machinery I can use for 20 years and sell for almost what I paid for it if I keep some paint on it and look after it. They are also good in that you can haul from up to 200 feet away (further with extension chains or cable) from where the tree is without cutting roads or trails which makes selective cutting easier. A lot depends on the type of forest you have. Open woods with a hard bottom is easier to get by without a winch.

It sounds like you're in the same boat a lot of us are, you have a small scale wood harvesting job to do, and the easy way to do it (tractor and winch) is fairly expensive. The flip side is that the cheaper way to do it is harder on you labour wise, and may tear up the woods more.

Sean
 

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   / hauling logs #42  
I'm really kind of confused on this issue. We have cut wood for about 40 years now and at one time 500 - 1000 cord a year. We always skid our logs and never gave it a thought about getting dirt and mud on the logs. Our woods is muddy, hilly and rocky, we have almost all conditions, and even flat ground we chose to skid. We had two saws running and touched the saws up every night with the chain grinder. It actually took longer to get the chain off and blow off the saw than to grind it. Some people say grinding eats a chain up fast, IMO i'de grind instead of filing a chain, get a better job. Could it be the issue of sharpening a chain? No big issue. My dad taught me to file a chain when i was about 5 or 6 years old so ive done my share of chains. Also i must add we did not hade a skidder we used 2 Belarus 400 tractors with farmi winches. I now use Mahindra and Kioti and the same Farmi winch. . .John
 
   / hauling logs #43  
If you can pick up one end of the log it will stay clean any time of year unless you pull it through a swamp. If you have a swamp to go thru wait til it is frozen and they will be clean.

Arches are great but there main purpose is to be able to pull heavy logs with equipment with limited traction that couldnt pull them otherwise. Keeping logs clean is a second benifit of them. They are a nuisance to jig around if you are in the woods.
 

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   / hauling logs #44  
... wait til it is frozen and they will be clean.

That's my plan of attack as well. I try to wait until the ground freezes hard or is bone dry in summer. I much prefer winter, no flies, I stay cooler, and no leaves to deal with on hardwoods.

Our only problem is the window between freeze-up and deep snow not being long enough to get it done. Up to about a foot or eighteen inches of snow is no problem, beyond that it gets tiresome.

Sean
 
   / hauling logs #45  
Just thinking out loud here.

A quick hitch could be used to lift, secure and control the butt end of a log. Cat 1 QH is 27" wide so your logs would fit nicely.

Then place a two or four wheeled fat tire dolly toward the middle of the log. Probably would have to be secured with chain and binder. Then tow away.

Hmmm. Maybe one of those half baked ideas.

Not at all.
 
   / hauling logs #46  
As a retired logger, I absolutely love posts like these. It shows what others are doing to accomplish their tasks with minimal investments (after the tractor that is) You do not say where you are but "frozen ground" gives clues that if you live in a region of such, then you also get snow. As I see it where one of your criteria is clean logs, you have a couple of options. 1. skid your logs out when there is snow cover using the simplest of techniques as previously described utilizing the 3 pt hitch draw bar and a clevis with chain hook. 2. Use something such as this (LogRiteTools's Channel - YouTube) to get the tailing end of the log up off the ground. This one will only do 16" logs not because of its width, but because its tongs not able to spread further. You can notch the end of your log to better accept the cradle tongs which should be now cut to 17' to allow for the notch. I would not consider skidding with the box blade whatsoever. Depending how extensively you are going to do this, would set the mark for any future tool investment such as the cradle. The Log arch trailer gives you the benefit of skidding cleanly at any point of the year and eases the tractor strain greatly.
 
   / hauling logs #47  
Not at all.

The problem I see is how do you get the dolly under a 1000 lb log? I guess you could lift it with the loader and then slide the dolly under, then move back to the front and hook up to haul. Quite a bit of maneuvering around, my woods roads are pretty close quarters to do that.

Sean
 
   / hauling logs #48  
If you can pick up one end of the log it will stay clean any time of year unless you pull it through a swamp. If you have a swamp to go thru wait til it is frozen and they will be clean.

Arches are great but there main purpose is to be able to pull heavy logs with equipment with limited traction that couldnt pull them otherwise. Keeping logs clean is a second benifit of them. They are a nuisance to jig around if you are in the woods.

Love the low body mount of your dump. Makes it easier for the tractor.
 
   / hauling logs #49  
We had two saws running and touched the saws up every night with the chain grinder. It actually took longer to get the chain off and blow off the saw than to grind it.

That's one of the reasons I file mine on the saw. I can file it quicker than I can take it off.

My opinion on grinders: done right, they can do a good job. But done wrong, they take too much off and may damage the temper of the tooth.

For a while, I did use a Dremel. Worked good but a good file does just as good without the risk of damaging the teeth.

Ken
 
   / hauling logs #50  
That's one of the reasons I file mine on the saw. I can file it quicker than I can take it off.

My opinion on grinders: done right, they can do a good job. But done wrong, they take too much off and may damage the temper of the tooth.

For a while, I did use a Dremel. Worked good but a good file does just as good without the risk of damaging the teeth.

Ken

Pretty much my thoughts as well. A friend of mine in Sweden stands his saws up on the end of the rear handle and files them that way, I usually either sit them on a flat surface or put the bar in a vise.

Sean
 
 

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