Hauling Sub-Compact.

   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #1  

LostMy65

Bronze Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2020
Messages
86
Location
Oregon City, Oregon
Tractor
2021 MF GC1725M
Perhaps a 1-Ton trailer will be sufficient?
Should the trailer have trailer brakes?
If no trailer brakes, will a 1/2 ton pickup pulling the trailer be sufficient?

Thanks,
Robert
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #2  
any idea what make/model tractor you are talking about?

i had a small JD years ago that I hauled in the back of my pickup. Had a ditch I could back into and lower the tailgate to the ground.

Other than that I wouldnt haul any light weight tractor in anything less than a 3500lb GVW trailer. you have to take in the weight of the trailer as well
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #3  
Perhaps a 1-Ton trailer will be sufficient?
Should the trailer have trailer brakes?
If no trailer brakes, will a 1/2 ton pickup pulling the trailer be sufficient?

Thanks,
Robert
Add up the weight being hauled, plus the weight of the trailer, and make sure you're in the trailer's GWVR spec.

Typically, brakes are required if the trailer + load exceeds 3500 pounds, but I found
Oregon Trailer Brake Laws

Independent braking system not required, but combination of vehicles must be able to stop within legal limits. Every motor vehicle and combination of motor vehicles, except motorcycles and mopeds, shall at all times be equipped with a parking brake system.​
Considering that the bare tractor weight of a scut is probably 1200-1400#, and you've probably got a belly mower and loader on it as well, my guess is you're well over the capacity of a one-ton trailer (don't forget, the trailer's not made out of helium). You'd be fine with a 3500# capacity trailer, but I personally would want brakes on it, and not just because I'm concerned that the F150 can't stop it but that a trailer with its own brakes will stop straighter in a panic stop than without.

Don't forget to strap it down well, too. Gravity only works in one direction, and you're responsible for where that scut goes if something bad happens (trailer tire blowout, panic stop jacknife, etc) - make sure that scut will stay attached to the trailer!
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #4  
Add weight of tractor to weight of trailer. Total should be not more than what trailer is rated for except - - Remember to load 10 - 15% of the weight on the ball of the hitch. That weight is subtracted from the total weight of the trailer rating.
Brakes generally required 3,000 lbs and more. So you should be fine with no brakes on trailer.
I also have hauled golf carts, zero turns (with tail gate open and supporting part of the load) in pickup bed.
Tie down the seat so the wind won't lift and drop, lift and drop, the seat.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #5  
215415989_10158183648405983_3409613969934898870_n.jpg

I haul my compact tractor with my halfton, I have a 10k trailer with brakes, brake controller and Z71 heavy duty brakes and factory max tow package. Tractor/trailer is 7600# and hauls just fine. Keep speed under 65mph. If you have a trailer without brakes, you'll probably be fine as long as load is less than 3k?
 
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   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #6  
Perhaps a 1-Ton trailer will be sufficient?
Should the trailer have trailer brakes?
If no trailer brakes, will a 1/2 ton pickup pulling the trailer be sufficient?

Thanks,
Robert
For any towing:

Whats the towing capacity of the vehicle being used?

Whats the weight capacity of the trailer *minus* the weight of the trailer itself?

Whats the *total* weight of the tractor and all accessories you'll be hauling with it?

Is this with-in the weight capacity of the trailer figured above?

What's the *total* weight of the trailer and tractor combination?

Is the total with-in your truck's rating, including 'Gross Combined Weight Rating'?

What does *your state* require for trailer brakes at the trailer's weight and GCWR?
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #8  
Are you just wanting to haul the tractor or tractor, loader and rear implement? In any case a 3500 pound trailer would be the very bare minimum. I’d want bigger.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Thanks guys, I'll probably pay to have it delivered. It's a gc1725m with only a loader.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I have a trailer and my 65 1/2 ton that I have gotten a yard of gravel with that got a little shaky over 40 mph - but that could have been the way the load was over the axle.
1 yard of gravel Approximate Weight per cubic yard: 2400 lbs
The sub-compact loader is about 500 lbs & the GC1725M is about 1550.
That comes to 2050 lbs.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #11  
Perhaps a 1-Ton trailer will be sufficient?
Should the trailer have trailer brakes?
If no trailer brakes, will a 1/2 ton pickup pulling the trailer be sufficient?

Thanks,
Robert

I'm not sure what a 1 ton trailer is, but it doesn't come close to handling its own weight plus the weight of the tractor, does it?

No offense meant here . . . I think you're decision to have it delivered is the prudent thing to do. If you're not at all sure about the trailer needed, the equipment needed, or whether your truck will pull it, you shouldn't be trying to tow anything.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #12  
View attachment 711834
I haul my compact tractor with my halfton, I have a 10k trailer with brakes, brake controller and Z71 heavy duty brakes and factory max tow package. Tractor/trailer is 7600# and hauls just fine. Keep speed under 65mph. If you have a trailer without brakes, you'll probably be fine as long as load is less than 3k?
I'm sorry but bumper pulling a 7600# load with a 6k tow is not a good idea, especially without torsion bars. Just because you can doesn't mean you should.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #13  
Let's all buy dump trucks to tow our tractors with!

If it makes anyone feel better, towing threads go like this on every forum, everywhere. It's normal.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #14  
Hold my beer and watch this. :ROFLMAO:
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact.
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Here is the trailer that I hauled a yard of gravel in.
PXL_20210902_234027824.jpg
PXL_20210902_234036929.jpg
PXL_20210902_234126030.MP.jpg
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #17  
Nevermind the liability, etc. . . . What does a yard of gravel cost? Maybe $75?

Is this the trailer you're asking about and considering hauling your tractor on?

Maybe you should put a hitch ball on your tractor drawbar and just drive it home pulling the trailer.

:cool:
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #18  
The weight of gravel is closer to 3K than 2K, depends on the aggregate size and the amount of water on it. Smaller the aggregate the greater the weight and the more water it can contain.

I tried hauling my BX on a 16" equipment trailer with a Dakota pickup. I rapidly determined I had the tail wagging the dog. Found a real deal on a used Dodge 1 ton. Didn't even know it was back there. Later bought a 1/2 ton Chev pickup as knock around ranch ass hauler. Decided to see how it handled the trailer and tractor. Worked fine. Added overload springs, new shocks, transmission cooler and brake controller (trailer has 4 wheel brakes) and it performs very nicely now. Sold the 1 Ton.

I, have heard some states, Canada, and Mexico require brakes at 2000# gross trailer weight with cargo. my insurance company requires trailer brakes, including a breakaway lock-up system. WA state does. Those are things to check on. the life you save is worth far more than these costs.

check your state laws on the break point on requiring chains vice straps. I would neve use straps for anything that has pneumatic tires or tracks. Straps stretch from those dynamic load. The slightest movement starts the stretching. Key thing with tie downs: The load needs to become integral with the hauling platform.

Ron
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #19  
Here is the trailer that I hauled a yard of gravel in.View attachment 712158View attachment 712159View attachment 712160

That looks like quite a few homebuilt trailers I've encountered. The axle looks to be mounted at the midpoint of the cargo box, which balances the gravel load all on the axle (mobile home axle, too). Slipper springs, and light ones at that. A properly built box trailer should have closer to 60% of the box in front of the axle, so that tongue weight increases as the load does. Proper tongue weight is important - too light will cause the trailer to whip at speed, and that's pucker time! Quite often results in a very bad day.

I've got a 5x8' box trailer with 2' sides, commercially built, that's rated for 2990lbs - because 3000lbs requires brakes. My wife filled it full of broken roof tiles once, over 5400lbs of them! Just because the load fits in the trailer doesn't mean it's safe.

I travel a mountain highway nearly daily for the last seven years, and have seen many accidents related to improper use of trailers. I own five trailers currently, and use them all. Each has it's purpose, and I choose accordingly.
 
   / Hauling Sub-Compact. #20  
Thanks guys, I'll probably pay to have it delivered. It's a gc1725m with only a loader.
I have a 1723EB (Loader with backhoe), I just went through purchasing a trailer with it. I ended up with a 7k double axle trailer being required to haul it. Weight I was showing was about 2700 lbs if I recall correctly. None of the single axle trailers I could find could get in without going over the max total weight when the math was all said and done.

I hate to spend money on the trailers for the occasional use but I have witnessed multiple accidents from the overloading/improper loading of trailers, one which almost killed me and I dont want to be responsible for what happens if I had to try to stop quickly. I dont mean to start trouble either but LostMy65 that has all the appearance of being irresponsible.
 

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