Having trouble installing/removing & adjusting rear blade on 3 pt.

[In.the.Piñons]

Draft control should be set to full up, but not in constant pumping position. The position control will then do its job; BUT, I've never seen a modern tractor without an adjustable stop on both position and draft controls.
This link might better explain: 3-Point Hitch - Please explain draft and position control interaction

Right you are! I don't know how I missed it, but right there on the position control level is an adjustable stop. So I will set it such that the lower arms will stop when they are parallel with the ground.

Thanks for the help!

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Can you post some pics of the back of the blade? Especially the angle mechanism and how everything attaches to the top beam. I don't understand why the side plates on the beam aren't parallel to the top beam.

Here are some pics. You can see the side plates are angled relative to the blade. I bought it used and it has some modifications, so those side plates might be something the previous owner modified... just a guess.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I've had similar issues with a few of my implements. My solution was to get a hydraulic top link. It greatly simplifies the effort required to swap attachments.

If you don't have a third set of remotes to control it, you can always add a diverter on one of the others.

I intend to get top and tilt cylinders, along with cylinders for blade offset (already ordered) and to control blade angle. The blade came with cylinders for the gauge wheel and blade tilt.

My tractor only has two rear remotes, so I'm not sure what is the best way to get all that to work at the same time (it would be six separate functions). Or if that even makes sense to do it that way.... i.e. blade tilt and 3pt tilt would be overlapping on the same function, but would allow me to get a lot of angle for digging ditches!

Anyway, my brain is full right now just trying to set up and operate what I have right now lol.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

My tractor has two position holes in the lift arms in addition to the top link hole positions. When I bought my rear blade, I had to use the lower position hole on the lift arms and the center hole on the top link to get the lift I desired.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

I've had the same problem. My solution - move the lower arms to a half-way position. Half way between full up - full down. Lower the tail wheel and use hydraulic pressure on the tail wheel to raise the blade. There will be a point where there is no pressure on the top link.

Sorry I did not mention this previously.

You should be able to get a Cat 2- Cat 3 spacer at your tractor dealer.

And thanks for the feedback.

Is it just called a Cat 2 to Cat 3 spacer? I can't seem to find something that would work?

Basically I'm looking for a stepped pin that fits the cat 3 hole on the implement, but then steps down to a cat 2 diameter to accept the top link. Then it needs to have a sleeve bushing to go from cat 2 (inner diameter) to cat 3 (outer diameter) so it fills the cat 3 hole on the other side of the implement's top link.

Does that make sense? Or do I just need a longer cat 2 pin with two cat 2 to cat 3 bushings that I can slide on both ends?

 

[paulsharvey]

Is it just called a Cat 2 to Cat 3 spacer? I can't seem to find something that would work?

Basically I'm looking for a stepped pin that fits the cat 3 hole on the implement, but then steps down to a cat 2 diameter to accept the top link. Then it needs to have a sleeve bushing to go from cat 2 (inner diameter) to cat 3 (outer diameter) so it fills the cat 3 hole on the other side of the implement's top link.

Does that make sense? Or do I just need a longer cat 2 pin with two cat 2 to cat 3 bushings that I can slide on both ends?

Cat 3 to Cat 2 reducer bushing is what you need, and you will use a cat 2 pin

 

[ruffdog]

Here are some pics. You can see the side plates are angled relative to the blade. I bought it used and it has some modifications, so those side plates might be something the previous owner modified... just a guess.

Forget what the end plates are doing. You need to get the main framework level to the ground. If you don't, every time you angle the plow it will change the tilt of the plow. First, put the upper link in the top hole on the plow frame like other's have stated.

 

[In.the.Piñons]

Thanks guys! I got a Cat 3 to Cat 2 bushing from my local dealer, but it was too long so I had to cut it in half.

Also changed the lower link pins so they no longer float and I adjusted the top link. Everything looks good now and no rotation when raising/lowering.

 

[RjCorazza]

Thanks guys! I got a Cat 3 to Cat 2 bushing from my local dealer, but it was too long so I had to cut it in half.

Also changed the lower link pins so they no longer float and I adjusted the top link. Everything looks good now and no rotation when raising/lowering.

Glad you got it squared away! That is a very beefy setup you have to work with.