djradz
Veteran Member
Maybe a "drip splatter" test is in order. I can get a good deal on one of those cheap Vogelsang stoves, but they're pretty short. and I'm thinking there may not be enough splash of the oil to make it burn clean.
Heating with waste oils
- Thread starter stnickstoys
- Start date
- Views: 8686
Thanks for the splatter remark. It got me thinking, what if the oil did splatter on the burner, would it burn better. I was making a new burner anyway. The first photo shows what it looked like before it was put in stove. I tested first with an aluminum pan top. I had just to see what would happen, it started to melt in about 10 minutes. So much for that.
My new burner started with just one threaded rod attached to a 1/4 inch plate then made bottom pan with a ring of 8-inch pipe. Welded a plate to the bottom, 3 inch spacer pipe over rod then 1/4 steel plate with holes, 1-1/4 inch pipe spacer, top cast iron plate still from original burner. It has crack in it but still useable.
Put nut on rod to keep all together. Welded a large washer to another nut and put on top of rod. This worked very well on getting the oil to splatter, giving much better burning. I can remove this complete burner take apart, clean and reassemble in about 10 minutes. Will keep posting.
My new burner started with just one threaded rod attached to a 1/4 inch plate then made bottom pan with a ring of 8-inch pipe. Welded a plate to the bottom, 3 inch spacer pipe over rod then 1/4 steel plate with holes, 1-1/4 inch pipe spacer, top cast iron plate still from original burner. It has crack in it but still useable.
Put nut on rod to keep all together. Welded a large washer to another nut and put on top of rod. This worked very well on getting the oil to splatter, giving much better burning. I can remove this complete burner take apart, clean and reassemble in about 10 minutes. Will keep posting.
Attachments
djradz
Veteran Member
Now that is starting to look impressive. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I'm wondering why you don't use cast iron pans however. Yes they may cost a little more than your basic cheap pan, but no more than a fine stainless pan, plus they're pretty heavy duty and come in a variety of sizes. Boy, that bottom piece is really heavy duty. Did you fab that up and if so from what?
CTyler
Veteran Member
The splatter test got me thinking a bit. If you can spray the oil in a mist it would burn better right? This would require an air compressor but only a small one.
I have a tube/tire deflator that would work for this. I'll pos a pic tonight for those that haven't seen one. Its just a peice of tube about 4" long. About 1" from the end there is a T fitting.
Blowing compressed air in the end, close to the T, it creates a suction at the T inlet, pretty basic.
Connect the compressor and use 10-15# air pressure? I'm guessing since I havent actualy done this. Connect your oil line to the T and blast away. A smaller tube size would atomize better.
How much efficiency would you gain? I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud.
I have a tube/tire deflator that would work for this. I'll pos a pic tonight for those that haven't seen one. Its just a peice of tube about 4" long. About 1" from the end there is a T fitting.
Blowing compressed air in the end, close to the T, it creates a suction at the T inlet, pretty basic.
Connect the compressor and use 10-15# air pressure? I'm guessing since I havent actualy done this. Connect your oil line to the T and blast away. A smaller tube size would atomize better.
How much efficiency would you gain? I don't know, I'm just thinking out loud.
OP
stnickstoys
Gold Member
Hi again guys,
I have been working on my burner as well this weekend. Had a snow day yesterday here and no school so I had the day off from teaching shop and got to play in my shop. I started my burner design as well using the ideas you all have been posting. My mounting pedestal is a flat flange welded to a piece of short pipe. This is mounted to the floor of the furnace. I wanted quick removal of the burner for cleaning so I made another flange with pipe using a slightly smaller pipe that fits inside the bottom pipe. I bolted this to my bottom cast iron frying pan. I lined the bottom frying pan with refractory morter to hopefully protect the pan from some heat. I added my spacers and flat 1/8" plate with holes and then more spacers and a 7" or so diameter brake drum from a Ford Escort. I drilled some additional holes in the drum flange to help burning. Tedious drilling but by the looks of it more holes than the standard 4 bolt holes are needed for a better burn. The bearing cap in the center should be a good splash enhancer but not sure how long it will hold up to the heat. I will take pics tonight when I get home from school and post the burner and mounting system pics. Keep up the great posts. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gifThis is turning into quite a design project.
Nick
I have been working on my burner as well this weekend. Had a snow day yesterday here and no school so I had the day off from teaching shop and got to play in my shop. I started my burner design as well using the ideas you all have been posting. My mounting pedestal is a flat flange welded to a piece of short pipe. This is mounted to the floor of the furnace. I wanted quick removal of the burner for cleaning so I made another flange with pipe using a slightly smaller pipe that fits inside the bottom pipe. I bolted this to my bottom cast iron frying pan. I lined the bottom frying pan with refractory morter to hopefully protect the pan from some heat. I added my spacers and flat 1/8" plate with holes and then more spacers and a 7" or so diameter brake drum from a Ford Escort. I drilled some additional holes in the drum flange to help burning. Tedious drilling but by the looks of it more holes than the standard 4 bolt holes are needed for a better burn. The bearing cap in the center should be a good splash enhancer but not sure how long it will hold up to the heat. I will take pics tonight when I get home from school and post the burner and mounting system pics. Keep up the great posts. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gifThis is turning into quite a design project.
Nick
djradz
Veteran Member
woops, see that you said you used the original cast iron plate. Looks like something even better than that might be needed. Maybe something like your bottom made-up pan. My guess is thought that at +2000 degrees, even that material may start to warp. Suprised you added that small "splatter" plate because it seems from your very early photos you were getting plenty of splatter from the top plate, so much so that the firebox was getting red hot.
OP
stnickstoys
Gold Member
just got home and thought I'd post my pics that I just took. Burner design to try and the quick removal mounting system for the burner. I will be able to just slide up the mounting plate and lift out the entire burner assembly. Can't wait to fire this up. Waiting for the refractory cement to set up, thought about throwing it in the oven at low temp but my wife caught me and said no way!
Need to be sneakier.
Nick
Need to be sneakier.
Nick
Attachments
OP
stnickstoys
Gold Member
OP
