Cutting the tank was because the plans had used a short tank, a taller should work, need to experiment. To tall might cause a draft problem. Also the intake tube would have to be lengthened. I welded a 1/8 plate to the bottom, wire feed did the job nicely.
The burning is mostly contained under the funnel and is forced out the bottom, this is the reason I installed the fire brick. The sides were taking all the direct flame. I am planning on installing fire brick or fire crete to the inside of the door. Will install a high temp gasket around door opening also. All this material is in the fireplace/stove section of the local home center.
There have been problem areas developing as more burn time is given to the stove, not big ones, but they will be addressed on the next stove I plan on making.
Making the stove out of a steel pipe 20 inches or larger in diameter,
Using a better quality cast iron fry pan for the top of burner, used a cheap imported one, it is starting to bend a little. Break drums may be the solution.
Used a cast iron instead of steel on bottom pan , that one is also bending, I plan on using a 10 inch steel and lining it with fire crete about ½ inch thick. Again brake drums might be the solution.
The funnel is also showing fire damage. Getting something at least 1/8 thick would help there.
Putting an air chamber or something inside or around the stove with a fan to blow air, this stove creates large amounts of heat; many BTU’s are going up the chimney. Installing a dampener plate in the flue stops the fire from complete combustion. Thus causing black smoke. This stove needs lot of air.
I am in the process of putting the burner into a wood stove that already has a fan on it, need to cut hole in top so intake will work, the stove has a fire crete lining and a cast iron door I would then be able to burn wood by taking the burner out.
I have time to experiment on modifications. The burner seems to be doing a very good job will not change the basic design. Will keep posting.