jjcc246
Gold Member
have had a lincoln 225 (220v) buzz box for over 25 years. never had a seconds worth of problems with it and i weld everything with it. i highly recommend it for low cost lifetime welding pleasure.
Help choosing a welder
- Thread starter polo1665
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bota7800
Gold Member
jjcc246 said:
That is good to know. There is a reason the tombstone is ubiquitous. Maybe my AC box will be sufficient. When you look at rods, though, some specify DCEN, others DCEP but it seems like few recommend AC- Am I wrong? (highly probable)
alchemysa
Veteran Member
I'm not much of a welder and I've only got a crappy little $90 machine but last birthday I asked for a self darkening helmet. (Only $45) What a revelation! It makes it so much easier its ridiculous. If' I'd had one of these years ago I'd probably have done a lot more welding by now. Pro's might have something against them, but I think they are brilliant.
FredH
Platinum Member
OMG !! that is so funny what Alchemysa said about a self darkening helmet .
I felt the same way when we built a new full length deck ( 68' ) down the back of our house . Before we did it , my wife bought me a pancake compressor and a framing nail gun . . I will be the first to admit I can't throw a hammer for , well you know . But yee-haw , Them 3.5" nails sure can come out of that gun pretty quick and straight to .
Although I have Mig , my brother has a Mig , my Dad has a old ( Very Old ) sears stick welder . AC or DC , not a clue . Right rod and amp setting for what you are welding , stick it together . Course , this same guy ( My dad ) welded a complete rear quarter panel onto a 1959 Ford Fairlane 500 , using a gas torch and old baling wire . .
Fred H.
I felt the same way when we built a new full length deck ( 68'
) down the back of our house . Before we did it , my wife bought me a pancake compressor and a framing nail gun . . I will be the first to admit I can't throw a hammer for , well you know . But yee-haw , Them 3.5" nails sure can come out of that gun pretty quick and straight to .Although I have Mig , my brother has a Mig , my Dad has a old ( Very Old ) sears stick welder . AC or DC , not a clue . Right rod and amp setting for what you are welding , stick it together . Course , this same guy ( My dad ) welded a complete rear quarter panel onto a 1959 Ford Fairlane 500 , using a gas torch and old baling wire .
. Fred H.
chh
Veteran Member
Personally I like DC welding. I never use the AC side of my Lincoln Ranger 10. But up until I got it most of my welding was done on an old SA 200 pipeliner that I picked up a few years ago. The AC/DC is a little more versatile if you want to spend the $$$, but as several have mentioned you really can do most stuff with an AC crackerbox. Miller and Hobart are the same machine and I have used the commerical styles of both on ocasion and really liked them. The Lincoln gas rig I have now is 3 years old and has been great so far. I would recommend staying with one of the big 3 though and an auto darkening hood is great. I will make learning much easier.
The AC/DC is a little more versatile if you want to spend the $$$, but as several have mentioned you really can do most stuff with an AC crackerbox. Miller and Hobart are the same machine and I have used the commerical styles of both on ocasion and really liked them. The Lincoln gas rig I have now is 3 years old and has been great so far. I would recommend staying with one of the big 3 though and an auto darkening hood is great. I will make learning much easier.
California
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Or #4: Any $50 yard sale or Craigslist welder. So long as it says 220 amps or more and weighs around 100 lbs. DC is nice, AC acceptable. This will run 6011 or 6013 like Soundguy described.RancherSam said:
After you have a little experience you can make a better-informed decision on buying a nice one and get back your $50 selling the first one on Craigslist. Or just keep it. I kept my $50 230AC welder, a 1960's Montgomery Wards (Century). It is functionally near identical to a current model Hobart Stickmate XL235AC; upgrading would be pointless.
And get an autodarken hood. I had the HF standard one then upgraded to their large-window version to better match my bifocals. Hopefully you won't need that upgrade.
machmeter62 said:
It's true. You can lay a better bead with DC. The sticks today (the actual rods) are much more high tech than when the old timers would use boraxo for flux and a coat hanger. The AC will beat thru surface gunk (that you should have cleaned off anyway....). The DC arc is much less "harsh" and easier to control. Easier to start and maintain an arc. The flux coatings are specific to DC + or DC - or AC. How and why, technically is a (???) to me but it is a fact.
There are guys that can lay a pretty bead with a coat hanger and a 24v battery (not me) and guys that can lay a decent bead with the right equipment (me). Better equipment allows you to do more and have a higher quality result with less expertise. High dollar equipment won't make you a welding master out of the chute, but it helps to make you less of a flub up.
Like I said, don't short yourself on a tool like a welder. You're gonna have it for a long time, so get a good one.
jb
elkun1
Member
Hay Polo, first thing i'd check is if any of your local colleges or welding supplier's are having welding classes. you'll learn proper technique and how to set up a welder. It's the best time spent and in a few weeks of evening classes you'll have the ability and confidence to actually weld something.
Go to your welding supply shop and see if they have any used ones. also watch the local weekly shopper type paper. look for 1 with the length of leeds that you think you'll need. pricing new welding leads for a stick welder will pucker you right up. make sure it has dc. doubt you'll ever use ac.
After taking some classes you'll be able to check out the used welder and make sure it does what you want it to do. My personal welder at home is a panasonic gunslinger. mig and dc stick combo. It's a dandy. good luck Ron
Go to your welding supply shop and see if they have any used ones. also watch the local weekly shopper type paper. look for 1 with the length of leeds that you think you'll need. pricing new welding leads for a stick welder will pucker you right up. make sure it has dc. doubt you'll ever use ac.
After taking some classes you'll be able to check out the used welder and make sure it does what you want it to do. My personal welder at home is a panasonic gunslinger. mig and dc stick combo. It's a dandy. good luck Ron
cgraham
Silver Member
Two things:
1. Someone mentioned using a chop saw for cutting (presumably mild) steel. Can I safely use my Ryobi 10" 14 amp miter saw for this purpose, or do I need more amps?
2. On the subject of gloves: ALWAYS wear when working with a chain saw, even if the saw is not running. A friend just laid the back of his hand open by brushing it over a tooth on a brand new chain, as we were preparing to work! 2" cut, ER, just barely nicked a tendon, stitches, no infection but prolonged swelling. Hand out of operation several weeks. Could easily have been much worse.
I never would have thought a stationary tooth could do such damage! A REAL good lesson for me.
Charlie
1. Someone mentioned using a chop saw for cutting (presumably mild) steel. Can I safely use my Ryobi 10" 14 amp miter saw for this purpose, or do I need more amps?
2. On the subject of gloves: ALWAYS wear when working with a chain saw, even if the saw is not running. A friend just laid the back of his hand open by brushing it over a tooth on a brand new chain, as we were preparing to work! 2" cut, ER, just barely nicked a tendon, stitches, no infection but prolonged swelling. Hand out of operation several weeks. Could easily have been much worse.
I never would have thought a stationary tooth could do such damage! A REAL good lesson for me.
Charlie
digger2
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Polo,
Dont know if it matters to you or not,but last time i checked the newer Lincolns are made in Mexico.......Millers and Hobart are made in the USA.
I bought my Lincoln AC/DC stick machine about 5 years ago not knowing they are foreign made nowadays.If i would have known i would have bought a Miller or a Hobart.Even so the Lincoln works good.
And by the way,if you do decide on a AC/DC,there is also the added advantage of later on if you wanted,you could get a TIG set up and hook that to your AC/DC machine and do some Tig welding.Its great for more precision work.But you can't do aluminum with this "poor mans tig" unless you get a high frequency box.($$$$)
Actually,all of these big 3 work good.But if i had to do over again and
i was buying new,i'd buy a Miller or Hobart AC/DC.....AN AMERICAN WILL THANK YOU FOR IT.
digger2
Dont know if it matters to you or not,but last time i checked the newer Lincolns are made in Mexico.......Millers and Hobart are made in the USA.
I bought my Lincoln AC/DC stick machine about 5 years ago not knowing they are foreign made nowadays.If i would have known i would have bought a Miller or a Hobart.Even so the Lincoln works good.
And by the way,if you do decide on a AC/DC,there is also the added advantage of later on if you wanted,you could get a TIG set up and hook that to your AC/DC machine and do some Tig welding.Its great for more precision work.But you can't do aluminum with this "poor mans tig" unless you get a high frequency box.($$$$)
Actually,all of these big 3 work good.But if i had to do over again and
i was buying new,i'd buy a Miller or Hobart AC/DC.....AN AMERICAN WILL THANK YOU FOR IT.
digger2
