Help choosing a welder

[polo1665]

My girlfriend and I recently purchased a beautiful home on 33 acres about 18 miles east of Canton, Ohio. Since then I have bought my first tractor and have been scouring the pages of TBN for useful advice to help me on my way. Now I need a little help with a purchase.
I have a feeling I will be in need of a welder at some point. Whether to weld chain hooks on the FEL, repair implements, or for fabrication of needed items. I have never welded so I plan on keeping it simple. I've narrowed my choice down to either a 225 or 235 volt AC stick welder. Here's my question. Which brand? Does it matter as long as they are well known brands?


Thanks for any help you can give me

Mark

 

[RancherSam]

go with one of the big three in this order
miller
hobart
lincoln

good luck with your welding projects!

 

[john_bud]

Welders are long term ownership tools. Don't scrimp as you will go broke taking yoga classes to get limber enough to kick your own behind. Buy once and buy for the long term. It winds up costing less overall.

(at least that's how I rationalize it!)

jb

 

[machmeter62]

Welders are long term ownership tools. Don't scrimp as you will go broke taking yoga classes to get limber enough to kick your own behind. Buy once and buy for the long term. It winds up costing less overall.

(at least that's how I rationalize it!)

jb

"JB" I have heard from others, including my son, that one can lay a better bead with a DC welder.....is that a true statement? If not, why is one better than the other??
LEE

 

[wushaw]

You might as well just get the AC/DC stick to be able to.

1. weld easier on DC
2. have more choices for whatever your welding.

 

[charlz]

I'd stick with the brands listed and watch Craigslist, around here an old Lincoln 'tombstone' will show up for $100-150 every now and then. You can always sell it for what you paid for it if something better comes along.

Charles

 

[bjr]

Yep, listen to these guys. I've a old Lincoln Idealiarc 250 AC-DC stick machine. I keep all my junk implents moving with it. I like 6011 fast freeze rod for most everything I do. Get a little 4-1/2 grinder (get two if you buy Harbor Freight stuff one for a 3" knotted wire cup wheel) and a pnuematic needle scaler really helps to clean things up. A decent size air compressor will be needed also (you sure you wanna do this, I mean the dollar bills are just gonna fly by). Your probably gonna need a Oxy/acetlene outfit also and frequent trips to the scrap metal/recyclers for material and trip to the TSC store. A cheap Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun to pretty things up. Soon you'll enjoy seein' what you can make move again. A shed or shop to keep all the tools in and, I almost forgot, your gonna need a bunch of time (get this in the 55 gallon drum size 'cause you'll always be runnin' out.) bjr

 

[bota7800]

I am just learning to weld myself. I have a Lincoln Electric 225AC that I bought cheap from another TBNer. I have been taking a class at the local comm. college (Highly Recommended). There, I use a Lincoln Electric Inverter 275S - a DC machine that also does TIG (I think). The DC welder is nicer.

Bear in mind that most of those $100 tombstones are AC only. Look for one that is AC/DC. The 7018 electrode (commonly used for many welds) is difficult to use on AC. There is a 7018 made just for AC welding, though, so there are alternatives if you end up with an AC machine.

Oh, here are a couple of welding forums you might be interested in:

WeldingWeb™ - Professional Welding Forum - Powered by vBulletin

Weld Talk Message Boards - Powered by vBulletin

 

[Soundguy]

I have a hobart stickmate XL235AC

It's a nice unit... can weld at 90-100A and 100% duty cycle. You can turn it up and use a larger electrode and weld 1/2" in a single pass.. or chamfer with it if needed.

For working with thick materials.. it's hard to beat a 200-400$ stick welder... Migs work thick metals fine.. but the machines that do the same thickness can be 5x the price. For that $$ I can chip a little slag off my work piece.

DO get a good set of long gloves, and a welding jacket or at least an apron.. I reccomend a long sleave weld jacket, and shoe chaps unless you wear boots.

Get a helmet you are comfortable with.. Some like the flip down.. some like auto darkening.. if you get flip down.. do for the full face visor.

Get a 4" angle grinder, a chipping hammer, a wire brush. and a tube to hold your rods nice and dry. A couple different vice grips made for welding and fab work.. a metal marking crayon or soapstone/holder.. and choose the rod type for your machine and work piece.

For instance.. 6011 is good deep penetration, fine on AC, makes an ugle weld... 6013 onthe other hand makes a very nice looking weld.. almost that of a mig.. but doesn't bite near as deep as the 6011.

In situations where you can't prep the metal adequately... like an emergency repar to a thick piece of rusty/painted metal.. lots of amps and an 6011 rod on an old cracker box will get-er done. Even in wind or rain where a mig might not stand up as well.

soundguy

My girlfriend and I recently purchased a beautiful home on 33 acres about 18 miles east of Canton, Ohio. Since then I have bought my first tractor and have been scouring the pages of TBN for useful advice to help me on my way. Now I need a little help with a purchase.
I have a feeling I will be in need of a welder at some point. Whether to weld chain hooks on the FEL, repair implements, or for fabrication of needed items. I have never welded so I plan on keeping it simple. I've narrowed my choice down to either a 225 or 235 volt AC stick welder. Here's my question. Which brand? Does it matter as long as they are well known brands?


Thanks for any help you can give me

Mark

 

[Soundguy]

Forgot to add.. a good chop saw or bandsaw makes fabrication MUCH easier... torches.. even cheap mapp or propane torches also help when forming metal.

soundguy

 

[jjcc246]

have had a lincoln 225 (220v) buzz box for over 25 years. never had a seconds worth of problems with it and i weld everything with it. i highly recommend it for low cost lifetime welding pleasure.

 

[bota7800]

have had a lincoln 225 (220v) buzz box for over 25 years. never had a seconds worth of problems with it and i weld everything with it. i highly recommend it for low cost lifetime welding pleasure.

That is good to know. There is a reason the tombstone is ubiquitous. Maybe my AC box will be sufficient. When you look at rods, though, some specify DCEN, others DCEP but it seems like few recommend AC- Am I wrong? (highly probable)

 

[alchemysa]

I'm not much of a welder and I've only got a crappy little $90 machine but last birthday I asked for a self darkening helmet. (Only $45) What a revelation! It makes it so much easier its ridiculous. If' I'd had one of these years ago I'd probably have done a lot more welding by now. Pro's might have something against them, but I think they are brilliant.

 

[FredH]

OMG !! that is so funny what Alchemysa said about a self darkening helmet .
I felt the same way when we built a new full length deck ( 68' ) down the back of our house . Before we did it , my wife bought me a pancake compressor and a framing nail gun . . I will be the first to admit I can't throw a hammer for , well you know . But yee-haw , Them 3.5" nails sure can come out of that gun pretty quick and straight to .

Although I have Mig , my brother has a Mig , my Dad has a old ( Very Old ) sears stick welder . AC or DC , not a clue . Right rod and amp setting for what you are welding , stick it together . Course , this same guy ( My dad ) welded a complete rear quarter panel onto a 1959 Ford Fairlane 500 , using a gas torch and old baling wire . .

Fred H.

 

[chh]

Personally I like DC welding. I never use the AC side of my Lincoln Ranger 10. But up until I got it most of my welding was done on an old SA 200 pipeliner that I picked up a few years ago. The AC/DC is a little more versatile if you want to spend the $$$, but as several have mentioned you really can do most stuff with an AC crackerbox. Miller and Hobart are the same machine and I have used the commerical styles of both on ocasion and really liked them. The Lincoln gas rig I have now is 3 years old and has been great so far. I would recommend staying with one of the big 3 though and an auto darkening hood is great. I will make learning much easier.

 

[California]

go with one of the big three in this order
miller
hobart
lincoln

Or #4: Any $50 yard sale or Craigslist welder. So long as it says 220 amps or more and weighs around 100 lbs. DC is nice, AC acceptable. This will run 6011 or 6013 like Soundguy described.

After you have a little experience you can make a better-informed decision on buying a nice one and get back your $50 selling the first one on Craigslist. Or just keep it. I kept my $50 230AC welder, a 1960's Montgomery Wards (Century). It is functionally near identical to a current model Hobart Stickmate XL235AC; upgrading would be pointless.

And get an autodarken hood. I had the HF standard one then upgraded to their large-window version to better match my bifocals. Hopefully you won't need that upgrade.

 

[john_bud]

"JB" I have heard from others, including my son, that one can lay a better bead with a DC welder.....is that a true statement? If not, why is one better than the other??
LEE

It's true. You can lay a better bead with DC. The sticks today (the actual rods) are much more high tech than when the old timers would use boraxo for flux and a coat hanger. The AC will beat thru surface gunk (that you should have cleaned off anyway....). The DC arc is much less "harsh" and easier to control. Easier to start and maintain an arc. The flux coatings are specific to DC + or DC - or AC. How and why, technically is a (???) to me but it is a fact.

There are guys that can lay a pretty bead with a coat hanger and a 24v battery (not me) and guys that can lay a decent bead with the right equipment (me). Better equipment allows you to do more and have a higher quality result with less expertise. High dollar equipment won't make you a welding master out of the chute, but it helps to make you less of a flub up.

Like I said, don't short yourself on a tool like a welder. You're gonna have it for a long time, so get a good one.

jb

 

[elkun1]

Hay Polo, first thing i'd check is if any of your local colleges or welding supplier's are having welding classes. you'll learn proper technique and how to set up a welder. It's the best time spent and in a few weeks of evening classes you'll have the ability and confidence to actually weld something.
Go to your welding supply shop and see if they have any used ones. also watch the local weekly shopper type paper. look for 1 with the length of leeds that you think you'll need. pricing new welding leads for a stick welder will pucker you right up. make sure it has dc. doubt you'll ever use ac.
After taking some classes you'll be able to check out the used welder and make sure it does what you want it to do. My personal welder at home is a panasonic gunslinger. mig and dc stick combo. It's a dandy. good luck Ron

 

[cgraham]

Two things:

1. Someone mentioned using a chop saw for cutting (presumably mild) steel. Can I safely use my Ryobi 10" 14 amp miter saw for this purpose, or do I need more amps?


2. On the subject of gloves: ALWAYS wear when working with a chain saw, even if the saw is not running. A friend just laid the back of his hand open by brushing it over a tooth on a brand new chain, as we were preparing to work! 2" cut, ER, just barely nicked a tendon, stitches, no infection but prolonged swelling. Hand out of operation several weeks. Could easily have been much worse.

I never would have thought a stationary tooth could do such damage! A REAL good lesson for me.

Charlie

 

[digger2]

Polo,
Dont know if it matters to you or not,but last time i checked the newer Lincolns are made in Mexico.......Millers and Hobart are made in the USA.
I bought my Lincoln AC/DC stick machine about 5 years ago not knowing they are foreign made nowadays.If i would have known i would have bought a Miller or a Hobart.Even so the Lincoln works good.
And by the way,if you do decide on a AC/DC,there is also the added advantage of later on if you wanted,you could get a TIG set up and hook that to your AC/DC machine and do some Tig welding.Its great for more precision work.But you can't do aluminum with this "poor mans tig" unless you get a high frequency box.($$$$)
Actually,all of these big 3 work good.But if i had to do over again and
i was buying new,i'd buy a Miller or Hobart AC/DC.....AN AMERICAN WILL THANK YOU FOR IT.

digger2