Help! Curl cylinders acting up

[TTTTTT]

Thx,

Nice to have quick confirmation. Time to get the seal kits.

Dave

 

[kennyd]

It is as obvious as it looks......you did your homework, now proceed to the head of the class and repack those cyls.......

Only takes one bad cyl to make both in that same circuit to creepdown.....the best way is to do both cuz they both have the same amount of wear on them and you'll regret not doing them both.....that said some guys will figure out which one is bad first, then repack it make sure it is good, then proceed to number two to finish the job......DONE......:thumbsup:

^^^^^^
What he said!

Since the cylinders are in parallel, only one needs to be leaking internally-but they should be rebuild in pairs anyway.

 

[magicheater]

Really nice to see the TBN experts get in on this one. After all, that is why we come here!

 

[BayouMan]

Had to do some bush hogging today and cut my 1 1/2 acre yard today. After eating dust for about 6 hours, I was done.

It seems that I may have two or more issues to deal with.

1. Both curl cylinders were rebuilt, plus the shop guy had two new pistons made to accept two rows of packing. Bucket and/or forks still leak down quickly.

2. The dump cycle legitimately gets ahead of the hyd pump, which causes the stall during the dump cycle.

I can live the stall on dumping. What I would like to solve is the leak down rate. I use my forks for a lot of different tasks. I want the curl to hold as long as my lift holds now.

Hopefully I can take pictures of my valves tomorrow. I have the cover removed already.

I have another issue that will take priority over hydraulics now. I noticed radiator fluid leaking today, on my way back from bush hogging. Wasn't the radiator or hoses. Noticed more vapor than normal coming out of the crank case vent. May have a head gasket issue or a porous cyl liner to deal with.

It gets to be a burden at times to keep an older machine in good shape.

I appreciate all of the suggestions and I will be addressing them as I get tiem over the next several days.

Mike

 

[dcyrilc]

Had to do some bush hogging today and cut my 1 1/2 acre yard today. After eating dust for about 6 hours, I was done.

It seems that I may have two or more issues to deal with.

1. Both curl cylinders were rebuilt, plus the shop guy had two new pistons made to accept two rows of packing. Bucket and/or forks still leak down quickly.

2. The dump cycle legitimately gets ahead of the hyd pump, which causes the stall during the dump cycle.

I can live the stall on dumping. What I would like to solve is the leak down rate. I use my forks for a lot of different tasks. I want the curl to hold as long as my lift holds now.

Hopefully I can take pictures of my valves tomorrow. I have the cover removed already.

I have another issue that will take priority over hydraulics now. I noticed radiator fluid leaking today, on my way back from bush hogging. Wasn't the radiator or hoses. Noticed more vapor than normal coming out of the crank case vent. May have a head gasket issue or a porous cyl liner to deal with.

It gets to be a burden at times to keep an older machine in good shape.

I appreciate all of the suggestions and I will be addressing them as I get tiem over the next several days.

Mike

Something I might recommend for testing your leakdown issue. Put on your forks. Raise your loader 6-12" and set the loader crossarm on a solid block. Support your forks temporarily then pull and cap the lines to the curl cylinders. Remove the support for the forks and let it sit while you figure out your engine/cooling issue. If the issue is with the cylinders, there should be very little change in the bleed down rate. If it takes quite a bit longer to bleed down, the issue is with the valve.

 

[J_J]

Is it not true that if the cyl's only are leaking, the cyl's will only leak down until the pressure on both sides of the piston equalize.

If a valve is leaking, then the loader arms will fall to the ground over time, or the curl will dump fully.

If the bucket is full curl up and the cyl's are good, then the bucket should stay in that position until the valve levers add or release fluid.

If the loader valve has zero leak down, then it should stay in the last position when the hyd was shut down.

 

[BayouMan]

Hey guys,
Sorry that I haven't checked in for awhile. Still need to check out the radiator problem as well as the curl leak down. Things just seemed to get crazy all of a sudden.
Ah, such is life.
Will definitely be trying some of the tests that have been suggested.
I also noticed that the curl valve, while the tractor is not running, is much looser to operate back and forth, versus the other 2. Could that be an indication that the valve is the issue? I know I am grasping at straws here, but wanted to be sure that I get as much information out to you guys as I can.

Thanks again,

Mike

 

[BayouMan]

Well, I finally caught a break and was able to spend a lot of time with my tractor yesterday. My radiator was badly plugged off in the front. With all of this dry weather, it seems that every time I use my tractor, I need a dust mask to survive. With the fuel tank and hyd oil overflow tank situated in front of the radiator, it doesn't take much oil or fuel to start acting like a dust magnet.

I had a buddy come over and we swapped the curl line to the 3rd valve for future grapple. Very noticeable decrease in the amount of curl leak down. I would prefer to have little to no leak down, but the new set-up is much more acceptable.

May end up someday replacing the 3 valve bank and go with a joy stick.

Thanks for all of the great information.

Mike