Help finding small, single drop axle, low deck trailer

[TimS]

I'm looking for a dual-purpose trailer - primary tasks are:

1) comfortably hauling a small tractor / loader combo - about 3000 pounds tops
2) taking scrap wood and tree debris to the grinder.

Other desirable characteristics are:

- relatively compact and light
- low deck for low CG while towing
- PT or oak deck, no dovetail
- 2" coupler for compatibility with other things I tow around
- full set of stake pockets including at the front and rear
- rub rail on the stake pockets
- set-back jack
- lights built into the rear crossmember - meaning not sticking out to bash your knees
- electric brakes on all axles


After some research, I'm looking at 12' deck trailers, width somewhere between 66 and 77 inches. Narrower would be better for storage and the roads I have to traverse to the grinder, but wider obviously gives more capacity - it's a tough call. Getting a low deck is probably going to require drop axles - it doesn't really matter to me whether I get a heavier single axle or two 3500s. With the weight I'll be carrying, I can almost get away with a single 3500 axle, but I'm not one to run right at the limit. To load the tractor, either a tilt deck or self-storing ramps would be OK. And of course, it goes without saying that I'd like it all for a good price.

After some weeks of looking, I have found every one of those characteristics, but not all in the same trailer. Anyone have any hints or pointers, or am I going custom?

Thanks.

Tim

 

[GPintheMitten]

Couple of things.

Do you weld? For as specific as you are, you might need to do some customizing yourself. Otherwise you probably are talking about a custom build job.

The other point is that one 3500 axle probably would be over the limit with a 3000 tractor and loader. The trailer will probably weigh more than 500. Go for double axles.

Good luck in your search.

 

[TimS]

Couple of things.

Do you weld? For as specific as you are, you might need to do some customizing yourself. Otherwise you probably are talking about a custom build job.

The other point is that one 3500 axle probably would be over the limit with a 3000 tractor and loader. The trailer will probably weigh more than 500. Go for double axles.

Good luck in your search.

I agree with you on the axle - that was the point I was trying (and apparently failing) to make - that I'm over what a single 3500 will carry, so will need to go to a heavier single axle or two 3500s.

For example, I like the looks of the Felling FT-6 T (http://www.felling.com/trailers/tilt/utilitytiltseries/ft-6t.asp) as a single axle, and the Felling FT-10 IT-E (http://www.felling.com/trailers/tilt/itseries/ft-10it.asp) as a double, but both appear to be heavier, and probably more expensive, than I'm looking for.

I agree that a certain amount of customization will be needed, and I don't mind that, but I'd like to get as close as possible to start with. Thanks for your input!

Tim

 

[deepNdirt]

what You are describing sounds like what I've seen trenchers or ditch-witch transported on,
Here is a link to get you started,
Trailer - max. 5 700 lbs | S series - The Charles Machine Works, Inc

 

[GPintheMitten]

Yes, I did misunderstand you regarding the axle spec.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Have you ever pulled a 4000# load on a single axle? Can you say "fishtail?"
As already said, get a tandem axle trailer.

You don't say where you live, but I would suggest a manufacturer like this:
C.F.'s Trailers Home Page
They will build just about anything you can imagine.

 

[TimS]

Have you ever pulled a 4000# load on a single axle? Can you say "fishtail?"
As already said, get a tandem axle trailer.

You don't say where you live, but I would suggest a manufacturer like this:
C.F.'s Trailers Home Page
They will build just about anything you can imagine.

I have found trailer driveability problems to mostly be caused by incorrect loading rather than the number of axles. That said, the double gives a bit better margin for error if you have tire or bearing problems, so I'm leaning in that direction.

Unfortunately, I'm in New England and there don't seem to be a lot of local trailer builders around here - I need to live in down South, I guess.

Tim

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yep, single axle is not going to cut it pulling a 3000# load.

If a trailer is listed as a 7,000# trailer for example you must take away the empty weight to find the payload. In most cases it will be about 1,700# leaving 5,300# capacity.

Chris

 

[TimS]

Yep, single axle is not going to cut it pulling a 3000# load.

If a trailer is listed as a 7,000# trailer for example you must take away the empty weight to find the payload. In most cases it will be about 1,700# leaving 5,300# capacity.

Chris

Sure - I'll point out, however, that you can get axles, including drop axles, with greater capacity. The goal is lightest weight though, and I suspect the heavier axle, brakes, and wheels / tires on a single 5200 setup would weigh almost as much as 2 3500 axles. And as mentioned, the dual setup has better redundancy and a larger load margin.

Tim

 

[Iplayfarmer]

People may get sick of hearing this on TBN, but I'd suggest you at least consider a longer trailer. I can speak from experience. My first trailer was a single axle 12'. My tractor is about the smallest you can reasonably get with a loader. I upgraded to a 14' trailer, and then to a 16'. I still have a very small tractor (<3K pounds), and I really like the 16' trailer.

The tractor fit on the 12' trailer, and the axle had the capacity to haul it, but it had to be in the perfect spot on the trailer to balance the weight correctly. That perfect spot varied depending on what implement I had on the back. A tiller was different than a mower, etc. You really need some wiggle room on your trailer.

As for the other attributes on your wish list, I think you have some good ideas. I agree wholeheartedly with the low deck, brakes, stake pockets, and recessed lights. You may losen up your requirement for a 2" coupler. If you have a receiver hitch, it's very easy to switch balls if you keep an extra stinger for your receiver. Of course I'm probably not one to talk. I have 5 trailers and each couples to the truck differently... gooseneck, 5th wheel, 1 7/8" ball, 2" ball, 2 5/16" ball. All I need is something with a pintle hitch.

 

[TimS]

Good point on the additional wiggle room - makes sense to me, so I'll go with a 14-footer minimum. Thanks for the insight.

Tim

 

[Diamondpilot]

Good point on the additional wiggle room - makes sense to me, so I'll go with a 14-footer minimum. Thanks for the insight.

Tim

Tim

Also you must account for the scope of the chins to tie down your equipment. Then need to be at a 45 deg angle or there about's to the tie down points on the trailer. This takes length. My 14' long tractor is about the max fit on my 18' trailer.

Chris

 

[jeffsw6]

The price difference for longer trailers is usually not too big. Two feet might sound like a lot more room to work with but it's not if you want to carry extra implements. I am a believer in buying more trailer than you think you need so you don't have to spend time upgrading.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

The price difference for longer trailers is usually not too big. Two feet might sound like a lot more room to work with but it's not if you want to carry extra implements. I am a believer in buying more trailer than you think you need so you don't have to spend time upgrading.

Agreed.

16' opens up a lot of possibilities. If the price isn't much more, I'd go for 16'.


Another thing to consider as you look is that some things are easier to change later.

The low deck, no dovetail, and electric brakes are costly to change later. Recessed lights, set-back jack, and stake pockets are fairly easy to add. Even a coupler is pretty easy to change, but it's a good idea to have a pro do the welding on a coupler.

 

[jeffsw6]

I don't understand why the coupler is important. Those 3-way trailer balls are available everywhere. If I was going to modify my trailers to make them all go on the same size ball I would pick 2 5/16" not the smaller sizes, which are intended for lighter loads.

 

[deepNdirt]

May I asked why the OP ask about a smaller trailer in the first place?
I think he has been convinced that a larger dual axle trailer would be better,
But let us shift to asking what kind of towing vehicle he plans to use?, Under normal circumstances of having a full size truck etc,etc, Yes we all would try to use as large of a trailer/load as the truck can comfortably tow,

example: back when I trade my 13 ft trailer for the 16 ft I have now, The person I trade with had downsize his vehicle from a full size truck to a Chevy s-10 with the 4.3 engine, He told me the truck could in fact pull the 16 ft trailer although was ridiculously out sized and the truck simply didn't have the proper rear-end for towing all the time, so be that the reason he wanted to trade and downsize trailers and quite understandable,
I talked to him a few weeks later, asking how the trailer was working out for him? he said it was a perfect match for his S-10 and can hardly know its back there, Of course I already knew that. that size trailer towed perfectly,
Actually when I owned the trailer I frequently pulled it with my wife ford explorer 5.0 ( Bumper ball ) with no problems, I wouldn't even think of pulling the 16 ft I have now with it, Yes I'm sure it has the power but just as the man with the S-10 .... a 16 ft is simply too large and outsizes the vehicle,

when I pulled the 13 ft / tractor loaded it was a good fit, although as others have mentioned was no room for loading extra implements, and with the work I was doing with my tractor I needed extra implements, and was the reason I traded up, otherwise I would have been happy towing that size trailer and tractor with any Mid/size vehicle,
BTW the 13 ft was a dual axle and as mentioned is best to go with dual axles for so many reasons,

 

[jeffsw6]

Not to disagree with you, but keep in mind it is easier to get the tongue weight right on a longer trailer than one where the loads only fit one way.

I have a 6x12 box that my equipment only fits (easily) in a way that puts a heck of a lot of weight on my tongue. It's fine for my truck because it is big enough to carry the extra tongue weight, and it is within the design limit of the tongue assembly, but if I had a smaller truck, I would actually rather have a longer trailer that I could load correctly, than a smaller one which is a little lighter and shorter.

Just my $0.02 but I don't think you can go wrong with a few more feet of trailer in this situation. I would put 4000# maybe 5000# behind an S10 / Ranger / etc if it was loaded right, on the other hand I would not put my 6x12 on any of those smaller trucks.

 

[Deere Greg]

Check the specs on a 2" ball... might be limited to 3500# max.

While I am typing...
A valuable piece of info I gleened from lurking on TBN is the value of extra length. Not length to fit more stuff, but room to move the load to place the center of gravity where required. Then again on a tandem, that is not as much of an issue as on a single axle.
(edit... I see "wiggle room has been mentioned...)

One of the coolest reasons for getting a single axle trailer is the common feature of deck tilt... gravity operated (often hydraulic damped) for self-propelled toy hauling. If your not after that aspect / feature, then a tandem is worth the extra maintenance given the added stability and terrain-handling (i.e. soft/uneven ground) of two axles.

Greg.

 

[deepNdirt]

Jeffsw6 I totally agree with you about weight positioning being easier achieved with a trailer 2 times the size of a tractor, I was only stating as whether or not a certain size truck has the capability to comfortably tow a large trailer and its load, I to have a 6 x 12 enclosed cargo trailer with single axle, at times it is difficult to position the weight as to not have it all on the tongue, But with the rear suspension of my tow truck know the truck can handle more excessive weight than the trailer tongue itself can hold,

To be quite honest if you look at the picture of the 13 ft trailer I was talking about with the tractor loaded onto it you can see where most of the tractor and its weight is positioned, I used to curl the bucket under and it fits inside the rails, although it was more convenient to simply rest it on top of the rail,

 

[powerstroke444e]

I have one of the ditchwitch type single axle trailers and would not trade it for anything. it has 1 8,000 axle with eletric brakes and it tilts its very low and it great for small trenchers tractors and 2 pallets of ??? and you can unload or load it with a pallet jack, These can usually be had for under 2,000 used. I have pulled it with a tandem and a compact suv and even my town car and ATV.

It is very handy but not my only trailer it just one tool of many depending on the job at hand.