Help me devise a plan of attack for refinishing my road (pic heavy)

[Soldier415]

Done a lot of reading through various threads using the search function and still have some questions. I'd rather admit I don't know and ask those with more experience in this area. I have about 1/4 mile of driveway that I have broken down into 3 sections and each has a different current state. Road material is stay mat (3/4" crusher run).

Photos were taken from ground level to give an idea of the current shape of the road and depth of center crown and tire tracks.

Just brought home a LP GS1560 Grading Scraper with scarifiers which will make keeping it in shape much easier once I get the road shaped correctly. Also think the GS can refinish sections 1 and 3 without having to use a rear blade.

Section #1:
From dooryard to the first turn and start of a down grade. Approx 150 yards in length. Most of the section has a slight crown but flattens out as it starts to go downhill. It is depressed in the tire tracks so water just runs down it instead of off the sides. I'm thinking that just running the GS will be sufficient for this section but I just need input on how to set the blades so I maintain the slight crown. All the way down on the right side and flush with the skid shoe on the left? Then run with the left side skid shoe along the top of the crown when towing the GS? Should I use scarifiers?

Section #2:
Right after a 90 turn to the right at the end of Section 1. Steep grade down to the bridge. Good drainage on both sides, however the road is below the level of the drainage. The edges of the road are high (can see it in second photo). It rutted pretty bad after summer thunderstorms last year. I was able to fix it up but not put a crown on it as all I had to use was a box blade (not to mention my first time running a tractor and BB). Over the fall and now the snow melt and rain has run straight down it and is washing out where the road material meets the bridge deck.

Was thinking run the GS with scarifiers down to loosen up several inches of material, then switching to a rear blade angled and tilted to cut the higher edges of the road down and move that material to the center to build a crown. My blade is a county line one from tractor supply, and have heard they can bend if you use them for heavier digging/cutting. Also, the blade itself doesn't tilt so I would need to extend the right hand 3PH arm to get the tilt which I have read can bend the arm and cause other problems. I should mention I have about 2 hours seat time with a rear blade which was clearing snow.

Section #3:
Far side of the bridge from section 2. Again, steep grade with drainage on both sides. This section was down to the 5-6" stone in a lot of places and heavily rutted early last year. Last fall I had 30 yards of material trucked in and chain spread. I then used the box blade to finish it leaving a rather high center with more of a domed crown than a straight one. Same issue as section 1 with regards to being depressed in the tire tracks. Same questions as section #1. Picture is from top of grade looking back down towards bridge.

As you can see, I have the start of a plan. Just need some more experienced sets of eyes to give me some feedback, suggestions, etc.

I also will be renting a 3 or 6 ton roller to compact everything after I finish shaping

 

[Soldier415]

Related note. Here is what section 2 looked like before I hit it with the box blade.

After:

My first time running a tractor/BB

 

[Egon]

Packing may not be completely successful as you will end up with a surface of mostly larger stones laying on top of mixed gravel.

 

[Soldier415]

Packing may not be completely successful as you will end up with a surface of mostly larger stones laying on top of mixed gravel.

Not sure I understand. The crusher run with fines has always packed down well

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Can't you just rake it out?

 

[Soldier415]

Can't you just rake it out?

Watched the video, looks like doing that would leave me with a flat road instead of a crowned one

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Watched the video, looks like doing that would leave me with a flat road instead of a crowned one

The side link can be adjusted to get the rake to crown the road.

 

[Soldier415]

The side link can be adjusted to get the rake to crown the road.

Any particular reason to use the rake over the blade? I have both. I would think the blade would move more material from the edge to the center?

I assume you are talking about crowning section 2 which is currently flat with high sides.

 

[oosik]

No matter how you set your land plane grading scraper - it will not move material horizontally. The LPGS will neither create or eliminate the crown on your road. If you need to create a crown by moving material - use your rear blade or a box blade. If the material is packed hard use the scarifiers.

 

[Soldier415]

No matter how you set your land plane grading scraper - it will not move material horizontally. The LPGS will neither create or eliminate the crown on your road. If you need to create a crown by moving material - use your rear blade or a box blade. If the material is packed hard use the scarifiers.

Only planning to use LPGS on sections 1 and 3 which are already crowned, which should fill in the ruts in the tire tracks and leave a nice smooth slanted finish. Just wanted to see how I should set the blade carriers as far as depth on each side, and don't know if I need to tilt using the 3PH arm.

Section 2 i'll need the rear blade. Came across this guide for tilt angle for proper crown.

 

[oosik]

I have my LPGS blade carriers set so the blade is 1" below the side plates - same on each side. Since the blades don't move material horizontally, I set the blade level across the unit.

 

[Soldier415]

I have my LPGS blade carriers set so the blade is 1" below the side plates - same on each side. Since the blades don't move material horizontally, I set the blade level across the unit.

Makes sense. Mine came from the dealer with the blades dropped all the way to 1 1/2". I don't think an extra half inch in cut depth will matter.

 

[oosik]

Not at all - that extra half inch won't make a toot difference. Based upon your pics the LPGS should work well to fill those tire tracks.

I know now what is different - I can't remember the last time I saw a two lane gravel driveway.

 

[boggen]

rear blade and box blade + TNT

tnt = Top and tilt = replacing top link with a hydraulic cylinder, and/or replacing one of the side links with a hydraulic cylinder. some folks replace both side links with a hydrualic cylinder.

would suggest at min. getting a TILT (replacing a side link with a hydraulic cylinder on the 3pt hitch) so you can adjust angle on the fly from seat of tractor. you have the longer straight runs but starting from home to going down hills, the ditch / angle most likely want steeper. and then i the turns, and then on the hill itself. you would most likely be constantly adjust the angle of rear blade/box blade. to get an angle that works better.

you are never going to solve your problems. till you get the water off the road and into the ditches. the one issue the 90 as you are going down hill. even if you put the water into a ditch. you are going to need larger rock in the ditch or your ditch will erode away. either make road slightly wider and extend into ditch with larger rock were water flows or get the water into the ditch and toss rock into the ditch. darn if you do, darn if you do not.

the road needs built up. more rock /dirt or something to get it up above the ditches.

the rear blade = helping with ditches and bring dirt/rock from ditches up into center of road due to how rear blades angle and move stuff from one side to other.
the box blade = better at filling in low spots, and physically moving high spots to those low spots. as in dealing with pot holes and ruts.
the land plane/grader scraper = more of a sifting device. it brings rock back up to the surface while allowing the dirt to fall down lower.
TNT = adjust stuff on the fly, you have to many different angles most likely wanted for rear blade, box blade, land plane. a side link of a TNT best bet.

make sure you have your "check chains", and "sway bar/chains" on the 3pt hitch. to help protect your 3pt hitch.

good chance you will be swapping between implements a good amount initially till you learn them. suggest telescopic lower lift arms, and/or pat's easy hitch, or quick attach for 3pt hitch. WARNING the quick attach (upside down U's) generally require you to cut off and re weld the connection points on 3pt hitch equipment. not always but many times.

WARNING. pending on 3pt hitch linkages. turn buckles to other types of adjust 3pt hitch, you may need a piece of wire or something around the large nut / turnbuckle to keep them from unscrewing and falling apart and loosing them some place.

google "forest roads" or "forestry roads" there is a handful of websites that generally cover a lot of the slopes, angles, crowns, ditch sizing, etc...

 

[Rustyiron]

I would pull your loose gravel in with the rake set at a aggressive angle to fill the wheel rut's then play around with your GS & see what material you have to work with. It looks to me like you could easily add new material to get the water off the road and into your nice ditches. Everything looks pretty close to good (basic grade wise) except the minor wheel rut's, looks solid & well compacted especially just after getting through winter.
If you decide you need to add a little material (I think you do), there is a trick that if you have a cooperative trucker, meet him at the quarry and bring 2- of 6x6 wood blocks about 20" long with you. Have him pop his tailgate just before loading and put a block against each side against the tailgate oriented parallel with the tailgate. When he set's his chains and "tailgates" the load out for you you'll have a nice 4' wide (or so) strip down the middle, just where you want it, then play with that with what ever implement works best for you. With a good grade like you have (at least the pics makes it look good) you should be fine with either the rake or box blade as long as you don't go crazy with a lot of ''operator input" on the height adjustments. I would guess 2"-3" might be all you need. The d/t driver will be blind as to what he's laying down, and you'll need to help him with his speed at first.
This has gotten too long, basically.....
I wouldn't "fluff up" & scarify your existing surface, just pull in the gravel from the edges.
see how far this material gets you with those wheel rut's.
add new material if necessary. (hard to tell but maybe a smaller like 3/4" crusher run or just stone dust to "lock in" your pulled in stone)

 

[Egon]

Not sure I understand. The crusher run with fines has always packed down well

You end up with larger stuff on the top. The fines will be on the bottom. Your LP does not mix the aggregate.

Get a rear blade with gauge wheels if you want to get serious. It'll pull gravel from the ditches, make the dishes deeper, mix your agregate well, crown the road, move material from side to side, pull material forward and end up with a smooth even road bed.

 

[ishiboo]

Everything except the downhill part, I would add 3/4 crusher run to bring up the level. Use your LPGS to smooth it out/distribute it. Use your rear blade at an angle to fix your existing ditches or cut new ones next to the road, so the water has somewhere to flow that's not down the driveway.

 

[smokinmad]

Now THAT's a Driveway....
Mine is only 100' and is limestone, meaning I have a lime base to "glue" my 3/4" stone down.. In the spring when the driveway is Soft, I got my trip disk out and went to town...then I raked it out smooth...now I till it lightly, then rake and roll it.

Ditches are the most important part of a gravel road, then your "crown". As for the Bridge entrance.....It is IMPOSSIBLE to make a Smooth Entrance on to a bridge....lol...Just drive down ANY interstate road...it Can't be done..lmbo

I think one of the most important parts of your rebuild has not been brought up yet....after I got that project looking Awesome...I'd hire someone with a highway roller,(10 ton) to roll it and PACK that road solid.....Yep, that is My 2 cents worth....

This is Good Advice also....""google "forest roads" or "forestry roads" there is a handful of websites that generally cover a lot of the slopes, angles, crowns, ditch sizing, etc..."" good thinkin "Boggen"

To bad you can't get some asphalt grindings to cover that with, the heat really makes a tight road with those old grindings.

Well, Good Luck and Be Careful...

Smokin'

 

[jeff9366]

My blade is a CountyLine one from Tractor Supply, and have heard they can bend if you use them for heavier digging/cutting. Also, the blade itself doesn't tilt so I would need to extend the right hand 3PH arm to get the tilt which I have read can bend the arm and cause other problems.

Better to adjust Box Blade tilt by moving LEFT Lifting Rod stirrup pin to one of the two lower adjustment holes available. Lower hole = less lift = tilt to left. (RIGHT works equally well but only two, rather than three adjustment holes on right.)

Then fine tune tilt with adjustable Right Lifting Rod. Less stress on the Lifting Rods following this procedure.

 

[crazyal]

First off do you know if there's fabric under the gravel? If so then you'll want to be very careful not to rip it up. As for what other say and what will work for you, the two don't always agree. You'll have a lot of people telling you that you need a crown to shed the water off your driveway. All that did for me is put lots of expensive gravel into ditches and on my yard. Now I keep my driveway flat and just drag the gravel back up the driveway. It may mean doing more work but I personally don't mind being the extra seat time.

I have a Befco grading scraper and I never put the blades much more than a 1/2" below the skids on the side. Usually they are even with it. Any more than that once the gravel is loosened up the blades just dig too deep. I use the rippers to break the gravel up. Once loose I'm just trying to smooth it. With the blades even with the skids the high spots get shaven down and the extra piles up in front of the blades until a low spot comes along. I would suggest setting the blades both ways and see what works for you.

Your driveway looks to be in pretty good shape. I wouldn't do much until you know if there is fabric. Once you know that then you can devise a plan of attack. For potholes I like to set the rippers as low as I can (even shortening the top link) and dig up around the hole, often I will try to do it from multiple directions. I usually will rip up the whole driveway because I like to get it nice and smooth and in the summer my gravel packs down very hard, just not as deep as around the pothole. Then I smooth it. I usually work with the idea of pulling the gravel uphill. To do the crown you can just adjust your side link to work with the angle of the blades. The gravel will want to work it's way down the blade. By setting the side of the scraper lower, the side with the blades closer to your tractor, you will pull gravel from that side and move it to the other. Chances are once you have a crown you are not going to need to do much as long as you keep one side of the tractor on the crown. It's not rocket science, just go out and play in a few spots with some of the ideas from others and see what works for you.