Help me justify a TILLER.

   / Help me justify a TILLER.
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Cool Tim. We're a few miles south of there. I'm on 3 acres near 25 and 290.

Can anyone help with proper install of that yanmar tiller toplink? I can't figure which way is right side up or not. One way, the horizontal line is at the bottom with the angled line at the top. It also fits the reverse of that. :confused:
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #42  
I sounds like the tiller is made for a smaller tractor. Or one with longer 3pt arms.

If you get "Pat's Quick Change" as advertized on this site, it will solve your problems. Cost is about $100, but it will make putting it on a snap. Worth the cost for that alone.

jb
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #43  
I sounds like the tiller is made for a smaller tractor. Or one with longer 3pt arms.

If you get "Pat's Quick Change" as advertized on this site, it will solve your problems. Cost is about $100, but it will make putting it on a snap. Worth the cost for that alone.

jb
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #44  
tony123 said:
Cool Tim. We're a few miles south of there. I'm on 3 acres near 25 and 290.

Can anyone help with proper install of that yanmar tiller toplink? I can't figure which way is right side up or not. One way, the horizontal line is at the bottom with the angled line at the top. It also fits the reverse of that. :confused:

There is a short top link needed that will keep the tiller away from the tractor. Check with the dealer that sold you the tiller and ask to see the original style top link for the tiller. it bolts to the back of a Yanmar and is solid for about 12 inches out from the back of the tractor. A short adjustable link connects to this solid piece for pivoting like a normal top link on the tiller. The result is to swing the tiller up and away from the rear tires.

The real trick in attaching it is to make sure the drive shaft will not kink at some point when lifting the tiller. This proved to be the real need for the solid top link.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #45  
Tony, your post has talked me into really wanting a tiller for my Deere 2210. I am near Augusta, GA, not too far from Traveler's Rest. Used to go through there as a kid when we went to mountains via Hwy. 28. Beautiful area.

I just might check out your dealer since I don't know of one closer to where I live. I could use the other one they have if it will work on my 2210.

Post some photos...please.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER.
  • Thread Starter
#46  
It is marked on the tiller that it is made for the YM2000 and I'm using it on a YMG2000D. So I think it is sized appropriate for my tractor.

Pat's quick change could be an option.

Shimp, I am using the shorter toplink with bolt on plate. The adjuster on the link is not broken free, so it appears to have about 3/4" of thread showing. When I break that free, it may help. Fingers crossed.

MacLawn, they actually have about 5 more tillers on the lot right now. Various brands and prices. There is a Yanmar 1600 that might be suited for your size tractor.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #47  
Tony are the tines hitting the tires when the tiller is raised? The tiller on mine fits real close to the tractor but that keeps the weight close and you don't have to add weight to front of the tractor. I run the triangle part of the Yanmar toplink with the short side on the top and the long angle running towards the ground. The bar (top link) is about 6 to 10 inches long. I will try to upload a crude drawing of the setup. I would hook up and take pictures but am not able to get to tractor right now. Hope that this helps. big dan
 

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   / Help me justify a TILLER. #48  
Tony, I got the Harbor Freight quick hitch for mine a few months ago; works great with my rear finising mower, but that is ALL it works with. Therefore, it has become useless for me. I still have to remove it for my middle buster and my rear blade. The bottom hooks are too wide for everything else I presently have. Point is, if you get a quick hitch, make real sure it will fit with all your attachments, or you will still have to change them the hard way! That has been very frustration for me - buying something expecting it to work and it doesn't...

Oldhip (i'm one too), good art work there!

I might check out that Yanmar 1600 tiller for me 2210. I lived in Japan for over 23 years (going back next week for a couple of weeks) and am very familiar with the Yanmar tractors, rice farming there, etc. Yanmar is the biggest tractor/boat, etc. diesel company in Japan and make great engines. My 2210 is a Yanmar, as are most of the John Deere tractors.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #49  
Tony,

I should have gotten the Pat's! I just read this from a person who has one:

"My main reason for buying Pat's was because it would accommodate implements with lower links at different widths, where a standard quick hitch will not, as well as the fact that a quick hitch has to be removed when using a Post Hold Digger and the PHD is one of the hardest implements to connect up to a 3pt."

Maybe I will try to sell mine and get the Pat's. It will work with all my stuff.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER.
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Big Dan, man....thanks for the drawing. That does help alot! I have it the opposite way. I'm also determined to break loose the adjustment on the toplink, as that will let it pull in another 1/2" and may do the trick for me. There are some "paddles" connected to a spring inside the two plates for the toplink plate. What are those for?

The tire isn't hitting tines, just the outer case. Not good either way though.

MacLawn, things move very fast around Southland. I think 4-5 of his original 8-10 tillers are gone in this first week. I'm about sure you'll be picking from the scraps if you wait until after your Japan trip. I'm going by there this morning, and will take a digital photo of whats left and post it here for you.
 
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