Help me justify a TILLER.

   / Help me justify a TILLER. #61  
Tony, I forgot this thread. Here is a pic of the top link set-up for my tractor and tiller. I was correct in remembering the various models this link was intended for. There is an adj bolt that needs to be facing up when mounted. The adj is for helping with the alingment of the lower cross mount pins. If done properly, when the top pin is in place, all the holes line up for the lower pin.

You tractor, set-up may be completely different.

Your pic showing the tiller working really shows how nice these tillers work up the ground.
 

Attachments

  • upper link.jpg
    upper link.jpg
    90 KB · Views: 232
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #62  
tony123 said:
Just got home with the tiller and spent about a half hour getting it on. :mad:

Got the model number and all....it is an RS1400.

I heard others comment on how close they are to the rear tires. Mine actually rubs at one point in the lift, and when on the ground is only a half inch off the tires. :confused: Is that about right?

Will post a photo or two this weekend.


tony

I haven't seen a mention of the upper link 'bridge' that is needed to reach out from the tractor to that special short Yanmar upper link. This 'bridge' has two holes and is pinned to the upper/lower upper link holes on the tractor, so the rearmost end of the 'bridge' maintains a constant height. With the short upper link pivoting around this extended swivel point, the tiller lifts high without being drawn forward into the tires. Be sure you get the 'bridge' and its mounting pins, along with the special short top link.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/115848-yanmar-tiller-just-got-home.html
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #63  
I had a Gravely plow. Used it ONCE to turn under the grass in the area where my garden is now and ONCE again to create raised rows.

Now have a JD 4010. Friend gave me a soil ripper from his JD M. He helped me adapt it to the 4010's 3ph. Used it ONCE to remove the raised rows created by the Gravely. Used the disc hiller added in place of the chisel plows to make new raised rows ONCE.

Sold the Gravely plow. Soil ripper and disc hillers now are in storage, probably to be never used again unless or until I do another new garden.

I'd rent a tiller or plow unless you can get them cheap (my Gravely plow was only $250). The soil ripper and adaptations cost less than that, or near that by the time I repainted them and all.

You can create raised rows with a Keulavator gizmo from Agro Supply.

Ralph
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER.
  • Thread Starter
#64  
It was timely that this thread was resurected. Just a few weeks ago I used the tiller again to scarify about an acres worth of ground for grass seeding. It worked fantastic! :D

Shimp, I have always had the bridge, but the part I was missing was that "extra short" toplink. I now have that and the tiller is positioned just right! It also runs sooooo much smoother. I had to get off to make sure the tines were turning.

Ralph, I got this tiller for $280, so between doing my garden once a year and the above mentioned grass seeding, it has paid for itself already. I would have thought long and hard about renting though if my only option were the pricier tillers.

Mickey, thanks for that photo a few months ago! It was helpful.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #65  
bigdad said:
john_bud

That is great! That explains why you are an Elite Member.
------------------------------
For what you are looking at, search the for sale's in the paper and yard sales and buy a $50 24" wide walk behind tiller. Have your wife run it. When 1/4 of the garden is tilled, take her to the farm store and bring home a tiller.

jb
[/QUOTE]

Actually the 4200+ posts explains why he is an Elite Member....:D
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #66  
If you're in the same situation that I'm in, it takes nearly 4 hours to work the garden over 1 time with the TroyBuilt... so I broke down and got a KK2 6' tiller for my tractor. That 4 hours is now reduced to about 40 minutes, and the KK2 does a much better job.

And remember, it's always easier to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission.

After SWMBO saw how good of a job it does and how much faster, she wasn't so mad anymore ;)
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #67  
I'm so lucky in this regard. My wife knows nuttin about living in the country. Picture Eva Gabore from Green Acres - Thats her! If I told her I needed gold plated tools she would say "ok darling".
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #68  
pitt_md said:
I'm so lucky in this regard. My wife knows nuttin about living in the country. Picture Eva Gabore from Green Acres - Thats her! If I told her I needed gold plated tools she would say "ok darling".

If your wife looks like Eva Gabor...what the heck are you doing out in the garden????:D
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #69  
This is a pretty good thread.

Never used a tiller much, but they sure look attractive. Was wondering if there is some general rule-of-thumb guidelines for sizing and use --

It probably takes more power to turn according the width, correct? (yeah, I know, MOTO -- Master Of The Obvious). But what are the numbers? Something like maybe 5 hp per foot of width?

And how fast can you cover area? -- again I follow it would be a width and power based calculation. But maybe some guidelines for fallow fields, and/or "planted last year," etc.

And I see folks mentioning multiple passes. What is typical to create a good seed bed? I guess I am comparing in my mind with the traditional mold-board plow - disk - drag - plant -- 4 pass world and trying to do comparisons.

Thanks.
 
   / Help me justify a TILLER. #70  
Phil Timmons said:
This is a pretty good thread.

Never used a tiller much, but they sure look attractive. Was wondering if there is some general rule-of-thumb guidelines for sizing and use --

It probably takes more power to turn according the width, correct? (yeah, I know, MOTO -- Master Of The Obvious). But what are the numbers? Something like maybe 5 hp per foot of width?

And how fast can you cover area? -- again I follow it would be a width and power based calculation. But maybe some guidelines for fallow fields, and/or "planted last year," etc.

And I see folks mentioning multiple passes. What is typical to create a good seed bed? I guess I am comparing in my mind with the traditional mold-board plow - disk - drag - plant -- 4 pass world and trying to do comparisons.

Thanks.

Number of tines per unit will control horsepower needs
Chain vs Gear drive mechanism will also contribute to horsepower needs

The type of soil, has it ever been turned?
Sandy Loam vs Pure Clay will all contribute to the number of passes you may have to do...

Basically there is a dozen answers for each question depending on where you are in the country and what state your soil is in...:D
 
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2022 Adams CLC-1013 Conveyor - New (A51039)
2022 Adams...
Komatsu PC490LC-11 Hydraulic Excavator (A49346)
Komatsu PC490LC-11...
71058 (A49346)
71058 (A49346)
2024 BCL Fabrication Landscape Dump Trailer - Heavy-Duty Utility Trailer for Mulch Debris Hauling (A51039)
2024 BCL...
2015 MACK GU713 (INOPERABLE) (A50854)
2015 MACK GU713...
GENERATOR HOUSE POEWERED BY TWIN 12.7 DETROITS (A50854)
GENERATOR HOUSE...
 
Top