Help needed - leaking hydraulics issue

[ejtaylor822]

My plan at this point is to go ahead and replace the O-ring. Will check the extra parts I got when I bought the tractor to see if I have one. If not, will get ordered.

I bought some gasket material and just going to make my own gaskets. Got the sealer and going to put down a good bead when I apply the gaskets. Definitely going to rent an engine hoist to put the sump back on. A buddy has offered to help, but, it would be a tight fit for two guys to squeeze in with this thing between the fenders – not to mention the strain on the backs trying to lean over the rear axle to mount this back on. Engine hoist I can be more precise and just lay it right on and (hopefully) not mess up the gasket.

Next step is get the gasket made and plate back on. Plan is to flip it back over, plug the inlet and outlet ports and fill it with kerosene. Then just wait to see if it leaks anymore. Once I am sure the leak is fixed, replace the O-ring, rent an engine hoist and get it all back together.

Anyone have any thoughts, tips or advice I should consider? Have made a couple gaskets in my life but it’s been a while. Any advice on repalcing the O-ring? Guess I just have to stretch the new one to get it back on. Any and all comments are welcome and appreciated.

 

[bluechip]

Looks like you found the problem. be sure to check your vent, probably in the fill cap, to be sure that a pressure problem didnt blow out this gasket, you can make a new gasket, use some sealant on it, and put it back together, you will need to change your trans oil as it will be diluted by the hyd oil leaking in there.

A job well done...digging in and finding the problem! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Shots of the O-ring. To me this does not look that bad. This is the worst of little “gouges”. )</font>

All that work to get into it and you are even considdering not replacing it. To me there is no question.. REPLACE it. I've seen orings with less damage cause problems in ford systems... that oring is extensively nicked, and will let pressurized oil bypass.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The other question is how did this get ripped and just fall out one day. )</font>

Fall out? I doub't it.. may have been blown out if pressure built up behind it.. casting may be a tad irregular ont he cover of the case.. check it out..

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I bought some gasket material and just going to make my own gaskets. Got the sealer and going to put down a good bead when I apply the gaskets. )</font>

If it were me.. I'd forget the sealant, and go with straight gasket paper.. etc. I'd like to preface that with.. " I don't have any hands on exp with jinma hyds.. like chip does".. however on other tractors.. like ford, etc.. adding goo's and glues'.. rtv.. shelacs.. copper cote.. etc.. any kind of liquid/paste gasket material to a paper gasket that is on a hyd pressurized area.. just makes it easier to blow out. Every hyd gasket problem on a ford I've ever worked on was because the prev owner either added rtv to the gasket, or used gasket maker. So far I've never had to take one apart due to a clean paper gasket blow out. Ford pumps on the pressurized side of the sump is around 1700 working psi, and up to 2000 for relief.. perhaps 220 at limits of pump. Id imagine your jinma pump does that or better... go with whatever your dealer or jinma mechanic advises you to do ont he gasket.. as I said.. I don't have jinma hyds experinece.

Soundguy

 

[Affordable]

We have been selling the Jinmas for years,while we don't sell the 454 the pics were good reference. We have the 3-point repair kit in our parts inventory which includes the o-rings you need. The gaskets can be made from gasket material,scissors,and a hammer to make the holes,it just takes a little time.We use permatex to seal the gasket down with first,everybody does it differently.Since we do not sell the 454 we just have not brought alot of parts in for it,let me know if we can help

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[GuglioLS]

Replace that O-Ring - no question about it - it's bad.

On the topic of the Draft control eailer in the post. I just got back from a visit with Tommy @ Affordable Tractor. We saw the new 354's and the new lift control box looks exactly like your 454. The Knob under the seat is now the Draft Control, in the past the knob under the seat controled the speed of how fast the TPH arms would go down if you instantly lowered the lever. Looks like you found both problems.

You take good pictures /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[SPIKER]

that O-Ring is definatly bad, it does not take MUCH of a nick to cause a sevier leak problem in o-rings. I wasn't able to see any obivious bad spots in the case but I may have missed it. cast can leak through but usually not so bad as described above. 1/4" level in a few weeks of use sure I could see that being a through the cast leak. any more then I think a crack or something would be needed or a blown gasket?

anyhwo nice shots good post so far so good looks like you are right on track.

markM

 

[ejtaylor822]

Hey guys, thanks for the help and encouragement – appreciate the kind words on the pics. I do enjoy photography, however, the digital camera and photoshop probably has more to do with the pics than the guy behind the lens. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Hope people do not mind all the pics, I just know when I was getting into tractorin’, pictures were a tremendous help. Trying to provide a little documentation and assistance for the next person that goes through this.


Current update: I made a gasket for the reservoir cover. Used RTV and laid down a nice thick bead around the perimeter and holes. Soundguy, agree the paper gasket should be good enough, but, I was really concerned about the flatness/tolerances of the case and cover machining. I placed a metal straightedge to look for gaps. Didn’t see any on the case but the cover is rough cast and is not totally flat. The cover is a little warped but does flatten out when bolted down – explains the need for 12 bolts holding it down. For this reason, and thinking additional RTV wouldn’t hurt, I went ahead and used the RTV.

I have replaced the O-ring. Totally agree. Kinda crazy to do all this work and not replace it – I do not want to do this again. I was getting impatient and wanting to get everything back together this weekend and didn’t want to wait on ordering one. I dug back through the spare parts tool box I got from the dealer and found one. Slipped it on and appears to be OK.

Still don’t have together though. I let the RTV cure yesterday and hope to get the case flipped over this evening and put some kerosene in there to check my seal and for any leaks I might be missing. Hope to get the engine hoist this week and get her all back together before the weekend. Off next week and have a lot of seat time to make up. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Larry,
Thanks for letting me know about the draft control. I checked the manual and the chenglish (still like that one) leads me to believe, not totally clear, the knob is for controlling the 3PH fall rate. I have not messed with this at all. Right now it’s stuck. Going to get working while I have it off and see what it does once I get it back together.

Thanks again for the help to everyone – you guys are great. Will keep posted.

Take care,
Eddie

 

[ejtaylor822]

Hello All!

Sorry I have not let everyone know how things are going. Last week I got her all back together and have been getting in some much needed seat time this week. It’s pouring the rain the morning and I am babysitting, so, trying to get caught up here.

Got it all back together and only had two parts left over – the parts are 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the seat on the top of the reservoir; hard to get to and the two that are on there now should be good enough – will get back on soon enough.

Can’t stress enough, as was previously posted, get an engine hoist if this work has to be done. I should have listened. Was alright getting it off, but, putting it back on and protecting the gasket and sealer an engine hoist is a necessity.

This picture is the reservoir on the hoist and I am draining the tranny.