3-Point Hitch help with a blade

[todda323]

Hello all. Its been a good while since I have posted anything here. Good to be back though. I am in need of some help. I got myself in a mess. I got this old ford blade and I am hoping someone here can give me some pointers to getting this thing apart. It is rusted up inside. I can get the blade to spin on a flat axis by bumping trees and bottle feeding it PB Blaster. I plan to pull it apart but I cant see how the get the tilt apart. Any suggestions? These pics are from another post but the fella never got much of a response. Mine is just like it though.

 

[ponytug]

Heat, candle wax, PB, movement is all I know.

I believe that for many of these scraper blades of this design disassembly involves cutting the welds off. I can't see enough detail to be sure on yours.

FWIW: I have an oil injector for "frozen" zerks that is quite effective at forcing light oil into otherwise fixed surfaces.

Zerk Zapper – Grease Fitting Tool

The original Zerk Zapper uses the power of any solvent combined with hydraulic pressure to break down and dissolve any blockage consisting of dirt, sand, old grease or any other dissolvable blockage.

www.zerkzapper.com

All the best,

Peter

 

[oosik]

What ponytug recommended. Just be careful as you are wrenching, twisting, pulling, etc - don't bend something. Use a good penetrating oil - give it plenty of time to do its work.

 

[California]

Same problem with this ancient 'Carrington Terracer' that was included when I bought the little Yanmar. I took off the grease zerk and poured in penetrating oil, then hammered, hooked alternate sides on a tree, then just let it stand a week with the penetrating oil soaking in. I should have also heated it to get the oil in. Finally hooking the tree again loosened the presumed rust, and it freed up after several push/pull cycles. After lots of grease, it swings freely now.

And - if anyone's interested here's how I modified it for quick hitch compatibility.

 

[LD1]

Agree that it likely isn't made to come apart.

The outer round tube where it tilts.....hit it with a hammer all the way around. Don't have to whale on it....but decent hits all around. Knock some rust loose.

Keep feeding oil

 

[todda323]

Hey thanks for the suggestions guys. Ill give them all a whack. It looks like the both the horizontal and vertical should slide off for maintenance when freed, Im just not sure what the hook is, but I will save that for pics since one is worth a thousand words. I noticed a shop model of the Zerk Zapper. I found a Lock N Lube Grease Buster which looks very similar to the Zerk Zapper. Both have air hammer pistons available which is intriguing. Do you all have a preference one brand over the other? Depending on my success, one of these may very well be on my list of things to get. I will take some pics of my actual blade so you all can see for yourselves.

 

[ponytug]

No, I don't have a brand preference for something that hopefully isn't going to be used much. Harbor freight sells one, too. The zerk zapper has dual o-rings, for what it is worth. I find putting light oil in a small container and sucking the oil up to be preferable to trying to fill from the top.

If you expect to do this a lot, that air hammer option would be a good one. For me using the normal version is a variant on rubbing your tummy while patting your head, as I find myself forcing the gizmo onto the zerk while trying to hit it hard and squarely with a hammer, without crushing my hand. For those of you with better hand eye coordination, this may be a non-issue... Having used the base version, I would probably shell out for the air piston version.

I look forward to the photos.

All the best,

Peter

 

[todda323]

Here are a few pics of my blade. She was thirsty this morning so I finished off a can of PB. More banging and still not much progress. Can't get it to spin perpendicular so I can start trying to pull it off the shaft. My little yanmar and my kubota just don't have the ...you know to swing it around. I think a torch set up needs to be in the mix. It's just not in the budget right now

 

[winston1]

the tilt or vertical will have to rotate to allow it to come off. Might be able to get a spud wrench partially thru the line up holes in order to help free it up. Example of what I am talking about, just a prying tool, could be a bar. https://www.grainger.com/product/1A...qU7Y-bG7DgoGEnwKw-4aApQpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[California]

In my limited experience (photo above) tilting the blade side to side by lengthening one side of the 3-pont lift didn't do anything. Friction against the road surface offset that adjustment.

Adding ballast to one side (photo) helped some.

So for this project, I wouldn't consider the tilt a priority and would concentrate on the horizontal angle. Possibly after your blade has had some use, the tilt might loosen up.