Hello all. Its been a good while since I have posted anything here. Good to be back though. I am in need of some help. I got myself in a mess. I got this old ford blade and I am hoping someone here can give me some pointers to getting this thing apart. It is rusted up inside. I can get the blade to spin on a flat axis by bumping trees and bottle feeding it PB Blaster. I plan to pull it apart but I cant see how the get the tilt apart. Any suggestions? These pics are from another post but the fella never got much of a response. Mine is just like it though.
3-Point Hitch help with a blade
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ponytug
Super Member
Heat, candle wax, PB, movement is all I know.
I believe that for many of these scraper blades of this design disassembly involves cutting the welds off. I can't see enough detail to be sure on yours.
FWIW: I have an oil injector for "frozen" zerks that is quite effective at forcing light oil into otherwise fixed surfaces.
www.zerkzapper.com
All the best,
Peter
I believe that for many of these scraper blades of this design disassembly involves cutting the welds off. I can't see enough detail to be sure on yours.
FWIW: I have an oil injector for "frozen" zerks that is quite effective at forcing light oil into otherwise fixed surfaces.
Zerk Zapper – Grease Fitting Tool
The original Zerk Zapper uses the power of any solvent combined with hydraulic pressure to break down and dissolve any blockage consisting of dirt, sand, old grease or any other dissolvable blockage.
www.zerkzapper.com
All the best,
Peter
California
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Same problem with this ancient 'Carrington Terracer' that was included when I bought the little Yanmar. I took off the grease zerk and poured in penetrating oil, then hammered, hooked alternate sides on a tree, then just let it stand a week with the penetrating oil soaking in. I should have also heated it to get the oil in. Finally hooking the tree again loosened the presumed rust, and it freed up after several push/pull cycles. After lots of grease, it swings freely now.
And - if anyone's interested here's how I modified it for quick hitch compatibility.
And - if anyone's interested here's how I modified it for quick hitch compatibility.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Agree that it likely isn't made to come apart.
The outer round tube where it tilts.....hit it with a hammer all the way around. Don't have to whale on it....but decent hits all around. Knock some rust loose.
Keep feeding oil
The outer round tube where it tilts.....hit it with a hammer all the way around. Don't have to whale on it....but decent hits all around. Knock some rust loose.
Keep feeding oil
Hey thanks for the suggestions guys. Ill give them all a whack. It looks like the both the horizontal and vertical should slide off for maintenance when freed, Im just not sure what the hook is, but I will save that for pics since one is worth a thousand words. I noticed a shop model of the Zerk Zapper. I found a Lock N Lube Grease Buster which looks very similar to the Zerk Zapper. Both have air hammer pistons available which is intriguing. Do you all have a preference one brand over the other? Depending on my success, one of these may very well be on my list of things to get. I will take some pics of my actual blade so you all can see for yourselves.
ponytug
Super Member
No, I don't have a brand preference for something that hopefully isn't going to be used much. Harbor freight sells one, too. The zerk zapper has dual o-rings, for what it is worth. I find putting light oil in a small container and sucking the oil up to be preferable to trying to fill from the top.
If you expect to do this a lot, that air hammer option would be a good one. For me using the normal version is a variant on rubbing your tummy while patting your head, as I find myself forcing the gizmo onto the zerk while trying to hit it hard and squarely with a hammer, without crushing my hand. For those of you with better hand eye coordination, this may be a non-issue...
Having used the base version, I would probably shell out for the air piston version.
I look forward to the photos.
All the best,
Peter
If you expect to do this a lot, that air hammer option would be a good one. For me using the normal version is a variant on rubbing your tummy while patting your head, as I find myself forcing the gizmo onto the zerk while trying to hit it hard and squarely with a hammer, without crushing my hand. For those of you with better hand eye coordination, this may be a non-issue...
Having used the base version, I would probably shell out for the air piston version.I look forward to the photos.
All the best,
Peter
Here are a few pics of my blade. She was thirsty this morning so I finished off a can of PB. More banging and still not much progress. Can't get it to spin perpendicular so I can start trying to pull it off the shaft. My little yanmar and my kubota just don't have the ...you know to swing it around. I think a torch set up needs to be in the mix. It's just not in the budget right now
Attachments
the tilt or vertical will have to rotate to allow it to come off. Might be able to get a spud wrench partially thru the line up holes in order to help free it up. Example of what I am talking about, just a prying tool, could be a bar. https://www.grainger.com/product/1A...qU7Y-bG7DgoGEnwKw-4aApQpEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
California
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- An hour north of San Francisco
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- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
In my limited experience (photo above) tilting the blade side to side by lengthening one side of the 3-pont lift didn't do anything. Friction against the road surface offset that adjustment.
Adding ballast to one side (photo) helped some.
So for this project, I wouldn't consider the tilt a priority and would concentrate on the horizontal angle. Possibly after your blade has had some use, the tilt might loosen up.
Adding ballast to one side (photo) helped some.
So for this project, I wouldn't consider the tilt a priority and would concentrate on the horizontal angle. Possibly after your blade has had some use, the tilt might loosen up.
I'll give it a try. Thanks Winston. I'm not sure how much it will do. I pounded on both the horizontal and vertical today with an 8 pounder. Moved maybe a quarter of an inch at best. I'll keep plugging away using the tips I get here. Much thanks for the advice so far. Keep em coming. I'll try them all
bmaverick
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If PB can't do it, then DEEP CREEP indeed will do it. Had rusted on rear drums on a 2500. PB 2 days of soaking, nothing. 20mins with Deep Creep, those drums came right off.
bmaverick
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How To Use Sea Foam Deep Creep Penetrating Lubricant
You’ve had it, that bolt is stuck. Try a can of Sea Foam Deep Creep. It may just save your sanity, not to mention your pocket book.
knowhow.napaonline.com
ponytug
Super Member
Meanwhile, Harborfreight sells a half million BTU propane torch that I have found to be quite useful. Pretty good for weeds as well.
I would second @California's comment about hooking it up as is and using a roadbed to work things loose.
Looking at your photos, I believe that your design does disassemble. For the left/right, I think that there is a bolt on the bottom cap that needs to come out. Some versions that I have seen unscrew at that point and some come off. For the top (yaw), I think you need to rotate the plate beyond the flange.
All the best,
Peter
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LD1
Epic Contributor
You are gonna have a hard time getting enough heat on that thing to do anything other than wast oxygen and acetylene.
But if you have never used a tilt blade....they really are about useless unless you plan on carving out a ditch or something. Because Look at how big the pin is....and how far rotated around you would have to be to get to the next hole. Visulize that blade as it sits with one side of the blade ~2' higher than the other. Again....tilt isnt much good unless trenching a ditch.
But the sidelink adjustment on the tractor is what you want if you are trying to establish a slight grade, swale, or crown a driveway
But if you have never used a tilt blade....they really are about useless unless you plan on carving out a ditch or something. Because Look at how big the pin is....and how far rotated around you would have to be to get to the next hole. Visulize that blade as it sits with one side of the blade ~2' higher than the other. Again....tilt isnt much good unless trenching a ditch.
But the sidelink adjustment on the tractor is what you want if you are trying to establish a slight grade, swale, or crown a driveway
clemsonfor
Super Member
Get some automatic transmission fluid and pour it over the area that is supposed to move. If you have some acetone you can mix it 50:50 to help it creep more. And the latter can be put in a spray bottle to apply as a penetrating oil. ATF is pretty good crud knocker loose and lubricating oil . If it's sitting in your shop or somewhere you don't want the oil dripping onto put a few flattned card board boxes under it to absorb the oil that drips off.
I completely agree with LD1 regarding roll of the blade being less practical than yaw. It would be nice to have it functional and operating as it should though. The roll has loosened a bit and I actually had to knock it back in place by about a half inch. The yaw is what I am primarily concerned with so I can rotate around to push or pull snow, gravel and all the other things people push and pull. On this blade there is a cap at the bottom of the shaft. The blade mount slides over the shaft and the cap retains the blade mount. I can't tell if it is threaded. It had a 3/4 pin through it. If the cap does screw on I will just cut it off and repair it later. I am going to mix up a batch of ATF and acetone and alternate it with Deep Creep for a week or 2 and see if lighting an acetylene fire under its ..you know, will get it moving. I was trying to visualize a press of some sort but cant come up with much right now. I have a 20 ton air over hydro jack. I'm not a welder but I did save a lot of money by switching to Geico, and I know a guy. In the mean time I am going to re grade every darn gravel drive I have. I found this reply on a post on Bob is the Oil Guy and thought it was interesting. For the old salts here you all probably already knew this. Hey maybe it will help someone who didn't know though.
"This is where the acetone/ATF mix idea comes from (disclaimer I don't own a copy of this publicaiton but have tried the mix and it works for me): Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment. *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* None ........................... 516 pounds WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix...............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix"
"This is where the acetone/ATF mix idea comes from (disclaimer I don't own a copy of this publicaiton but have tried the mix and it works for me): Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment. *Penetrating oil .......... Average load* None ........................... 516 pounds WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix...............53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer thinner 50 - 50 mix"
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ponytug
Super Member
Ok, I have to admit the article snippet had my sniffer sniffing. There seem to be too many digits of precision in the torque test numbers for anyone but an extremely expensive shop, and how did they consistently rust the bolts, even with a salt fog cabinet, and we all have one of those out back, right?
I am sure that the ATF/acetone mix works, but I wondered where that quoted text originally came from. So, I went poking around. The snippet would appear to be widespread, as it is quoted all over the place, but no actual source, and always the exact same chunk of text; nobody has a longer version. After an interesting walk through various search results, a search of machinistsworkshop.net, a (the?) magazine, turns up one result for ATF, and two unrelated items for rust. The earliest quotes of this seem to be 2012, so it wouldn't appear to be that old.
The snippet seems so tantalizingly detailed, as if grounded in fact. "Steve from Godwin-Singer". Godwin-Singer is a machine shop in Florida, and a Steve Trimm is a co-owner.
Perhaps someone with better "Google-Fu" can find the original source. I couldn't.
If it was a prank post, someone must be laughing pretty hard...
All the best,
Peter
I am sure that the ATF/acetone mix works, but I wondered where that quoted text originally came from. So, I went poking around. The snippet would appear to be widespread, as it is quoted all over the place, but no actual source, and always the exact same chunk of text; nobody has a longer version. After an interesting walk through various search results, a search of machinistsworkshop.net, a (the?) magazine, turns up one result for ATF, and two unrelated items for rust. The earliest quotes of this seem to be 2012, so it wouldn't appear to be that old.
The snippet seems so tantalizingly detailed, as if grounded in fact. "Steve from Godwin-Singer". Godwin-Singer is a machine shop in Florida, and a Steve Trimm is a co-owner.
Perhaps someone with better "Google-Fu" can find the original source. I couldn't.
If it was a prank post, someone must be laughing pretty hard...
All the best,
Peter
