Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.

[bbse]

I had the same problem on my KK 5ft rotary cutter on a L3010. I fought with the position issue for a while and I finally lowered the pins on the cutter. Went to TSC, bought some pins, drilled new holes low enough my drag links could get max lift, installed pins, problem solved. Now I can pick cutter way up off the ground. I don't know if you can do this on your cutter or if you would want too. It seems a lot of these cutters are designed with larger utility tractors in mind and install the attachment pins too high. CUTS need the pins to be lower on the cutter. Something else you can do is make sure you are using the lowest pin position on the back of the tractor. This will lift the rear of the cutter higher. I also had to replaced the top link with a chain and threaded u-bolts because I have steep hills and when I got to the bottom it would fold up enough to shear the top link pin. I will try to take some pics tomorrow to show what I am talking about.

 

[bbse]

I had the same problem on my KK 5ft rotary cutter on a L3010. I fought with the position issue for a while and I finally lowered the pins on the cutter. Went to TSC, bought some pins, drilled new holes low enough my drag links could get max lift, installed pins, problem solved. Now I can pick cutter way up off the ground. I don't know if you can do this on your cutter or if you would want too. It seems a lot of these cutters are designed with larger utility tractors in mind and install the attachment pins too high. CUTS need the pins to be lower on the cutter. Something else you can do is make sure you are using the lowest pin position on the back of the tractor. This will lift the rear of the cutter higher. I also had to replaced the top link with a chain and threaded u-bolts because I have steep hills and when I got to the bottom it would fold up enough to shear the top link pin. I will try to take some pics tomorrow to show what I am talking about.

 

[MrSteve]

This is what I do on my set up... I set my top link on the second from the bottom hole. I set the mower to the cutting hight I want, then I take the top link and adjust it so it is even with the mower top link bracket, um yeah, lol may be a pic will help (attached).

Point being I get the hight I want for cutting, the mower floats like it should and I get the rear wheel of the mower off the ground for transport.

 

[MrSteve]

This is what I do on my set up... I set my top link on the second from the bottom hole. I set the mower to the cutting hight I want, then I take the top link and adjust it so it is even with the mower top link bracket, um yeah, lol may be a pic will help (attached).

Point being I get the hight I want for cutting, the mower floats like it should and I get the rear wheel of the mower off the ground for transport.

 

[browns40]

Hi canoetrpr,

Does your Kubota have float option on the lower arms of the 3 pt hitch? On mine (JD 3x20) there are two tabs on the outside of each ball that either lock into slots (when rigid for ground engaging) or slide up & down when turned out (so the implement can move on the side-to-side axis somewhat independently of the tractor). This helps to prevent scalping when the rear of the tractor sits or one side hits a rut.

If not, can you adjust these 3pt linkages higher when disconnected from the actual 3 pt lower arms? (this will raise the lower arms vertical range--not increase, but shift up or down in relation to the tractor)

Finally the toplink is positioned so that the lengthwise axis of the cutter can go up & down a bit (i.e. follow contour while keeping a portion of cutter weight on the rear wheel instead of lifting the cutter over every low area.

Method is to get the front of the mower at the height you want it when on level ground (note position of control & thats your set ponit), then extend the toplink so that the rear wheel is supporting roughly 1/3 to 1/2 weight of cutter while on level ground. Then lengthen toplink a few threads (1/3 to 1/2 inch). This allows the back to drop into depressions without lifting it up.

Anyway, on a 3320 with MX-5 these are the ways to set things up to get a better finish cut without hanging out, or driving down the cutter.

 

[browns40]

Hi canoetrpr,

Does your Kubota have float option on the lower arms of the 3 pt hitch? On mine (JD 3x20) there are two tabs on the outside of each ball that either lock into slots (when rigid for ground engaging) or slide up & down when turned out (so the implement can move on the side-to-side axis somewhat independently of the tractor). This helps to prevent scalping when the rear of the tractor sits or one side hits a rut.

If not, can you adjust these 3pt linkages higher when disconnected from the actual 3 pt lower arms? (this will raise the lower arms vertical range--not increase, but shift up or down in relation to the tractor)

Finally the toplink is positioned so that the lengthwise axis of the cutter can go up & down a bit (i.e. follow contour while keeping a portion of cutter weight on the rear wheel instead of lifting the cutter over every low area.

Method is to get the front of the mower at the height you want it when on level ground (note position of control & thats your set ponit), then extend the toplink so that the rear wheel is supporting roughly 1/3 to 1/2 weight of cutter while on level ground. Then lengthen toplink a few threads (1/3 to 1/2 inch). This allows the back to drop into depressions without lifting it up.

Anyway, on a 3320 with MX-5 these are the ways to set things up to get a better finish cut without hanging out, or driving down the cutter.

 

[RalphVa]

If your top link is longer than the bottom lift arms, you won't be able to raise the cutter. This happened to me when my LX4 was delivered. The solution was to move the lift pins to their lowest position holes. This caused the top assembly to rotate forward and shortened the top link.

You set the front of the cutter with the 3 ph adjustment. Set the rear with the postion of the trail wheel. Most are set to have the back of the cutter about 1" above the front.

Then set the top link length to fit or, in the case of the LX4, to have its movable top assembly to be in the middle of its run (it can move 2" each way in a 4" slide assembly).

I usually use a chain for the top link now. Was doing some mowing yesterday that couldn't have been done with the top link in place.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

If your top link is longer than the bottom lift arms, you won't be able to raise the cutter. This happened to me when my LX4 was delivered. The solution was to move the lift pins to their lowest position holes. This caused the top assembly to rotate forward and shortened the top link.

You set the front of the cutter with the 3 ph adjustment. Set the rear with the postion of the trail wheel. Most are set to have the back of the cutter about 1" above the front.

Then set the top link length to fit or, in the case of the LX4, to have its movable top assembly to be in the middle of its run (it can move 2" each way in a 4" slide assembly).

I usually use a chain for the top link now. Was doing some mowing yesterday that couldn't have been done with the top link in place.

Ralph

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Every tractor (model) is different. Every MOWER is different. Manuals SUGGEST the best way to start the set-up, but they can't speak for every combination of mower/tractor. Use info from manuals with a grain of salt.

Set the mower so that your top link has no tension on it when in mowing position. Set position control on tractor to hold it there. Have the rear wheel where it holds rear of mower about 1 " above the front of mower. THEN, adjust the top link with a little slack, but where it holds the mower's rear wheel off the ground when in transport position. On SOME mowers, and SOME tractors, that will have the mower only a few inches off the ground in transport pos. Others will raise the mower several feet off the ground.

Of primary concern is getting the mower adjusted for proper CUTTING.

From all I've seen, there is less "tolerance" for these adjustments on smaller tractors as opposed to big tractors.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Every tractor (model) is different. Every MOWER is different. Manuals SUGGEST the best way to start the set-up, but they can't speak for every combination of mower/tractor. Use info from manuals with a grain of salt.

Set the mower so that your top link has no tension on it when in mowing position. Set position control on tractor to hold it there. Have the rear wheel where it holds rear of mower about 1 " above the front of mower. THEN, adjust the top link with a little slack, but where it holds the mower's rear wheel off the ground when in transport position. On SOME mowers, and SOME tractors, that will have the mower only a few inches off the ground in transport pos. Others will raise the mower several feet off the ground.

Of primary concern is getting the mower adjusted for proper CUTTING.

From all I've seen, there is less "tolerance" for these adjustments on smaller tractors as opposed to big tractors.