Help with top link adjustment for rotary cutter.

[HomeBrew2]

You could try the method I've been using with mine for a few hundred hours now. I use pair of chains attached, with caribeaners, to the little eyes up under the fenders to keep the front of the cutter at a constant height. I keep the tail wheel in a position that keeps the rear of the cutter about 4" off the ground. For cutting, I adjust the toplink pretty long so the floating link mount on the cutter is mostly hanging straight down. This method prevents scalping while following all contours very well. I usually leave it in this position when not mowing too but will just reach back and shorten the top link so I can raise the cutter high when crossing my creek or other obstacle.

 

[HomeBrew2]

You could try the method I've been using with mine for a few hundred hours now. I use pair of chains attached, with caribeaners, to the little eyes up under the fenders to keep the front of the cutter at a constant height. I keep the tail wheel in a position that keeps the rear of the cutter about 4" off the ground. For cutting, I adjust the toplink pretty long so the floating link mount on the cutter is mostly hanging straight down. This method prevents scalping while following all contours very well. I usually leave it in this position when not mowing too but will just reach back and shorten the top link so I can raise the cutter high when crossing my creek or other obstacle.

 

[Highbeam]

I use the 3ph position control to set the front height of the mower. I set the tailwheel height to allow a slight butt-high look to the mower. Then I set the top link with a few inches of slack and mow for hours. I don't lift the entire mower for transport, I lift the front pretty high with the 3ph but leave it low enough to allow the tailwheel to carry some weight. Why not let the tailwheel with its greased axle carry some weight? It makes transport much more pleasant.

In heavy brush when I want to back into the wall-o-briars, I will shorten the toplink and raise the mower so that I get a very butt-high man muncher.

 

[Highbeam]

I use the 3ph position control to set the front height of the mower. I set the tailwheel height to allow a slight butt-high look to the mower. Then I set the top link with a few inches of slack and mow for hours. I don't lift the entire mower for transport, I lift the front pretty high with the 3ph but leave it low enough to allow the tailwheel to carry some weight. Why not let the tailwheel with its greased axle carry some weight? It makes transport much more pleasant.

In heavy brush when I want to back into the wall-o-briars, I will shorten the toplink and raise the mower so that I get a very butt-high man muncher.

 

[KiotiJohn]

Start by setting the top link to where the floating connection is at the middle of it's arc. That way, when the tractor front end goes into a depression and the rear goes up some, the mower is not lifted, and conversly so.

From that starting point, you will observe how the mower is operating and decide if you need to adjust the top link a little shorter or longer. If you adjust the float toward the rear, lengthening the top link, the mower will stay on the ground more when the front of the tractor goes down, and also won't come up high when lifted.

It's not unusual to not have an ideal setting. On mine, depending on the terrain, I start with the top link in the middle of a slot, not a float, but it's the same principal. On some terrain, the perfect setting for cutting won't allow me to lift the mower up much, so when I'm finished, I shorten the top link so as to lift the mower off its tail wheel. Not a big deal, and the cutting is the most important.

In summary: With the mower down, make sure the rear is 1"-2" higher than the cutting level of the front, no more. Then set your floating link at the middle and adjust from there.

It helps to just have the skid runners off the ground just a bit in front, That will usually show you where the scalping would occur, and you'll see them dig in if it's not adjusted right.
John

 

[KiotiJohn]

Start by setting the top link to where the floating connection is at the middle of it's arc. That way, when the tractor front end goes into a depression and the rear goes up some, the mower is not lifted, and conversly so.

From that starting point, you will observe how the mower is operating and decide if you need to adjust the top link a little shorter or longer. If you adjust the float toward the rear, lengthening the top link, the mower will stay on the ground more when the front of the tractor goes down, and also won't come up high when lifted.

It's not unusual to not have an ideal setting. On mine, depending on the terrain, I start with the top link in the middle of a slot, not a float, but it's the same principal. On some terrain, the perfect setting for cutting won't allow me to lift the mower up much, so when I'm finished, I shorten the top link so as to lift the mower off its tail wheel. Not a big deal, and the cutting is the most important.

In summary: With the mower down, make sure the rear is 1"-2" higher than the cutting level of the front, no more. Then set your floating link at the middle and adjust from there.

It helps to just have the skid runners off the ground just a bit in front, That will usually show you where the scalping would occur, and you'll see them dig in if it's not adjusted right.
John

 

[bbse]

Here is a picture of the modification I made to my 5ft KK brush cutter. You will notice the original pins much higher. Also see how level the 3 ph drag links are. Can you imagine how high they would have to go with the original pins. It was the same setup with my Kubota L.

 

[bbse]

Here is a picture of the modification I made to my 5ft KK brush cutter. You will notice the original pins much higher. Also see how level the 3 ph drag links are. Can you imagine how high they would have to go with the original pins. It was the same setup with my Kubota L.

 

[bbse]

Here is one of the chain used for the top link.

 

[bbse]

Here is one of the chain used for the top link.