djradz
Veteran Member
I'll try to address all the issues at once.
The belt twist in normal for the Woods RM306. It does a 360 at that point. You'd think it would be a problem or cause excess wear, but I changed the belt for the first time last year after 29 years of operation on the original, and it still was good but had worn such that it was sitting too low in the pulleys and I was getting some slippage.
The top link on my RM306 was set a little long in the picture, so it probably would limit motion in the case of assending from a steep valley, but I don't have any so I usually have it set that way so the back end doesn't lift up when going over hills/ridges. A little longer toggle would have been better and I've toyed with making one, but just haven't found it all that necessary.
The chains, at least for me, have nothing to do with weak hydraulics or saving the cylinders some beating, but I guess it could. I use the chains for two basic reasons: 1) The deck is always set at the exact same height. I never have to look back or make adjustments. If I raise it up for some reason, when I'm done, I just lower the control lever all the way and it returns to the exact same position - really nice! 2) I think the chains are even a better way of supporting the front of the deck (mower or rotary cutter) than front caster wheels would be, and far and above using the 3-pt lower links. I say this because with casters out front, the deck would bounce much more as the little (approx 8"-10") wheels roll along over every little bump. (Have you ever taken your riding mover or garden tractor into rough terrain - if so you'll know what I mean!) Also, the chains are superior to the 3-pt because they establish the support at the tractor rear wheels, not ~3 ft out, where every dip or rise of the front of the tractor causes a correponding opposite reaction on the lower links. Yes the front of the deck will ride with the rear tractor tires, but heck, those tires are over 4 ft in diameter and provide a significantly stable ride. How many times here have we heard about someone trying to master their rear blade for grading level and are confronted with the woop-de-do effect. The closer your support is to the tractor, the more level the implement reaction. I've got the same setup on my rotary cutter, except without the turnbuckles since adjustment is much less precise.
The belt twist in normal for the Woods RM306. It does a 360 at that point. You'd think it would be a problem or cause excess wear, but I changed the belt for the first time last year after 29 years of operation on the original, and it still was good but had worn such that it was sitting too low in the pulleys and I was getting some slippage.
The top link on my RM306 was set a little long in the picture, so it probably would limit motion in the case of assending from a steep valley, but I don't have any so I usually have it set that way so the back end doesn't lift up when going over hills/ridges. A little longer toggle would have been better and I've toyed with making one, but just haven't found it all that necessary.
The chains, at least for me, have nothing to do with weak hydraulics or saving the cylinders some beating, but I guess it could. I use the chains for two basic reasons: 1) The deck is always set at the exact same height. I never have to look back or make adjustments. If I raise it up for some reason, when I'm done, I just lower the control lever all the way and it returns to the exact same position - really nice! 2) I think the chains are even a better way of supporting the front of the deck (mower or rotary cutter) than front caster wheels would be, and far and above using the 3-pt lower links. I say this because with casters out front, the deck would bounce much more as the little (approx 8"-10") wheels roll along over every little bump. (Have you ever taken your riding mover or garden tractor into rough terrain - if so you'll know what I mean!) Also, the chains are superior to the 3-pt because they establish the support at the tractor rear wheels, not ~3 ft out, where every dip or rise of the front of the tractor causes a correponding opposite reaction on the lower links. Yes the front of the deck will ride with the rear tractor tires, but heck, those tires are over 4 ft in diameter and provide a significantly stable ride. How many times here have we heard about someone trying to master their rear blade for grading level and are confronted with the woop-de-do effect. The closer your support is to the tractor, the more level the implement reaction. I've got the same setup on my rotary cutter, except without the turnbuckles since adjustment is much less precise.
