Backhoe Hi everyone. NewB with dumb ?? about backhoe

LVKubota · Mar 26, 2005

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What did you have to do to modify your Hydraulics to get it to hook up or does it have its own Tank & PTO pump?
My 3265 is not self contained I had to tap into the hydraulics.
I will give you a call sometime later today hopefully when you get back. Well would you believe it - It's snowing here ! seems like winter will never end. )

LOL @ the hydraulic hook ups!!! Haven't got that far yet. My owners manual shows a separate optional connection. Hope I have it. I do know that I have an 8GPM pump for implements.
Still learning as we go.

All my new best friends in the neighborhood have asked to "borrow" the rig. I've politely refused letting them take it but I did send the boy down to a neighbors house to move some dirt for him. That way I know it's not getting abused.

Larry, you can borrow the tractor anytime!! I know you need it for the heated cab about now. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

bigtractor · Mar 26, 2005

Actually a sub frame is easier to mount and dismount you slide in or out instaed of fighting the 3 point arms.

LVKubota · Mar 26, 2005

( Actually a sub frame is easier to mount and dismount you slide in or out instaed of fighting the 3 point arms. )

Cool, any negatives??? Do all the other 3 point implements still attach?

MMM · Mar 26, 2005

I'm not real familiar with the ones for CUT, and there isn't one as far as I know for my skip loader. I built my own which slides intto 4X4 loader frame rails that end behind my axles. As other poster said, it's much easier. Just back up close to subframe, hook up hoses, adjust height and lateral angle with outriggers and tilt with boom. The subframe rails are finished to a point which guides it into loader rails so it doesn't have to be perfect. I think most asubframes require removal of lift arms. I take mine off before hooking up hoe.

grandad · Mar 26, 2005

The subframe is supposed to do 2 basic things on a backhoe equipped tractor:
1. Relieve the enormous stress on the tractor from the operation of the backhoe.
2. Make it reasonably easy to switch the tractor from backhoe mode to 3pt mode.

Different backhoe brands have their own subframe designs for various tractor models. Some are little easier than others.

The main drawback to a subframe is ground clearance can be reduced. Again, that varies from one brand to another. Also, you probably can't use a mid-mount mower, if that's something you might want to have.

LVKubota · Mar 26, 2005

Interesting info on the subframe. Mower is not an issue. MMM built his, Does anyone know the cost of a subframe from, let's say. Bradco? Or would it be a Kubota part?

GaryE · Mar 26, 2005

Does anyone know the cost of a subframe 

I just put a Kubota subframe and a new ROPS on my L3710. It was just over $1,000.00. I am not sure what the breakdown was but I would guess ~ $750.00 was for the subframe. This was for a L4560 BH, I have no idea if this would hold true for your BH. If it were a choice in keeping your BH or your 3710, I would loose the BH first. But it sounds like you can make it work. Just my opinion.

Good luck

Gary

LVKubota · Mar 26, 2005

( Does anyone know the cost of a subframe 

I just put a Kubota subframe and a new ROPS on my L3710. It was just over $1,000.00. I am not sure what the breakdown was but I would guess ~ $750.00 was for the subframe. This was for a L4560 BH, I have no idea if this would hold true for your BH. If it were a choice in keeping your BH or your 3710, I would loose the BH first. But it sounds like you can make it work. Just my opinion.

Good luck

Gary )

I'm hoping to make it work. The problem is the majority of work around here is probably back hoe related...........actually, a trencher may work for the irrigation projects but I still want to plant a $h!&*load of trees and maybe dig a pool.

Thanks for the price breakdown.

GuglioLS · Mar 26, 2005

Sit down before you get the real price quote on that bad boy from Bradco. If convenience and low cost of swapping implements is what you want then go with plan A. I have to respectfully disagree with the masses - I don't have to "fight" the lift arms to attach my BH.
If strength & Stability of the BH is what you want then go with plan B. My 3 Point BH works for my needs - If I were making a living with a BH :
1. It would not be a 3 point &
2. It would be a dedicated BH and not a BH attachment.

Getting back to basics - the only real problem here is the seat hits the cab. A SIMPLE extension of the arms will solve the problem and will cost $$ not $$$$.
But who am I. $$$$ may not be a problem for you.

LVKubota · Mar 26, 2005

Thanks for the advice. Definetly money is ALWAYS an issue. And I would very much like to swap future implements quickly.

Larry, there are extensions that slide outta the end of the arm. There's about 6" of adjustment there. The extensions have the heim joint. They are at about a 30* angle. I'm thinking if you could just make those aprox 18" longer at less of an angle that may work.

Hurry up and get to Vegas so you can take a look!!

Happy Easter all!!!!