Hitch pin size

   / Hitch pin size #1  

Kep1a

Bronze Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2017
Messages
78
Location
Tucson
Tractor
Montana 2840
My scraper blade I bought is very old.
It requires a 6" long pin however 3/4" fits very loose and 7/8" is too big to fit at all. Is this normal?

The holes are all still round and not at all damaged. Is it possible it takes a metric pin like 20mm?

20210828_142029[1].jpg
 
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   / Hitch pin size #2  
Cat 1 top link pin diameter is 3/4". If the 3/4" pin fits your top link (and it should), that's the one to use. If your top link is Cat II it will be 1" and there are bushings commonly used to bush down to a 3/4" pin for Cat I implements. A bit of slop won't bother anything.
 
   / Hitch pin size #3  
CategoryHitch pin sizeHitch pin sizeLower hitch spacingTractor drawbar power
upper linklower links
017 mm (5⁄8")17 mm (5⁄8")500 mm (20")<15 kW (<20 hp)
119 mm (3⁄4")22.4 mm (7⁄8")718 mm (28")15-35 kW (20-45 hp)
225.5 mm (1")28.7 mm (1 1⁄8")870 mm (34")30-75 kW (40-100hp
 
   / Hitch pin size #4  
My scraper blade I bought is very old.
It requires a 6" long pin however 3/4" fits very loose and 7/8" is too big to fit at all. Is this normal?

The holes are all still round and not at all damaged. Is it possible it takes a metric pin like 20mm?

View attachment 711996
Make sure the pins fit the eye in the top link. THAT is important!

The holes in the implement? Not so much.
 
   / Hitch pin size
  • Thread Starter
#5  
well I should have been more clear it is the vertical pins for adjusting the blade arm for angling the blade or to offset the arm.

image0.jpeg
 
   / Hitch pin size #6  
Well..........


Shows 5/8 and 3/4 and 7/8 and 1 inch and I am guessing these are standard sizes, and when equipment is old, get one that fits even if sloppy or re-bore hole to next size up to give fit you want....


Personally I would go for anything that works and if sloppy, remember its a tractor and non precision implement... Get to exacting in size ii is going to bind up and make changes in the field difficult....
 
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   / Hitch pin size
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Some of the holes have never been used and the fit is the same. So they are not worn. Just seems odd. I'm thinking a metric bolt like 20mm may fit better so I may look into that option. I thought possibly there were metric pins used in Europe.
 
   / Hitch pin size #9  
I have the same blade, the original pins are made from 3/4 hot rolled bar stock.
20210901_195237.jpg
 
   / Hitch pin size
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I will need to look at it to see if I can figure out what it is. I was more concerned about condition and adjustability than the model name. The blade tilt is less important now as I am setting up a top and tilt so I can do it from the operators seat.
 
   / Hitch pin size #12  
I'm curious is that an old Servis / Rhino blade?
Mines a Leinbach, great blade. It was a NC based company. I believe Everything Attachments bought them or took them over at some point?
600973709.jpg
 
   / Hitch pin size
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Those of you who have one of these scraper blades is your pin fitment loose like mine? Like a 3/4" pin is very loose but a 7/8" pin just barely won't fit.

I'm in the process of lubing and making sure the bolts are all tight to put this thing in service. I hope the learning curve is not too difficult as I have never used one of these yet:rolleyes:
 
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   / Hitch pin size #14  
Those of you who have one of these scraper blades is your pin fitment loose like mine? Like a 3/4" pin is very loose but a 7/8" pin just barely won't fit.

I'm in the process of lubing and making sure the bolts are all tight to put this thing in service. I hope the learning curve is not too difficult as I have never used one of these yet:rolleyes:

My rear blade, while it is fix (does not off set as the one pictured) the pin is slightly loose for the angle adjustment. I figure if it was real tight, the blade would run a risk of binding. As it is, if the pin does not want to pull a kick to either the front or rear of the side of the blade depending on the tilt of the pin has always freed it up. The looseness would only allow for a minor angle change and since the work being done is not rocket science, the slight play is not critical.
Now I am jealous of that swing at the front of the frame as shown in the photo!
 
   / Hitch pin size #15  
Those of you who have one of these scraper blades is your pin fitment loose like mine? Like a 3/4" pin is very loose but a 7/8" pin just barely won't fit.

I'm in the process of lubing and making sure the bolts are all tight to put this thing in service. I hope the learning curve is not too difficult as I have never used one of these yet:rolleyes:
They aren't a tight fit but I wouldn't say mine have a lot of slop either. A little movement is good, keeps everything from seizing up!
 
   / Hitch pin size #16  
They aren't a tight fit but I wouldn't say mine have a lot of slop either. A little movement is good, keeps everything from seizing up!

Agreed! As a wild guess I would say the opening is perhaps 1/32-1/16” larger than the pin.
 
   / Hitch pin size #17  
One word of caution with that blade, be careful when changing the offset and try to be on level ground with the blade frame fairly level (front to back), other wise gravity will take over at some point and that blade assemble gets real heavy real fast! (Don't ask me how I know)
 
   / Hitch pin size
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Thank you
I would likely have not thought about the blade becoming unsafe due to un-level conditions.
 
   / Hitch pin size #19  
All of my pins are loose on the Ford 785A and Massey 21 back blades. This is preferred to having the pins rust in them. The locking pin for angle on the MF21 is tight and when I cleaned it up it took me hours to free it up. I would have preferred it looser like the 785A as it would not have seized up solid. Back blades are dirt moving tools so looser tolerances don't hurt the work, but do make hooking them up, and adjusting them easier.

My Massey 18 box blade had tigher tolerances and the thing was seized solid after the prior owner used it to move cement. It took me hours to free it up. I do not like crazy loose tolerances, but loose enough to prevent seizing is nice.
 
 

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