Tom,
I looked at Dynamat on Ebay and agree. That looks like it will work. Just select the correct sq. footage, best type and price. I now have several options. I'm going to look at some sound installers in my area to see if they have some remnants left. Thanks all for your help.
I made a cab from 2" pvc conduit.It's lightweight and is easily removed. It has lexan front and rear windows and removable doors with clear vinyl sheeting held in place with velcro. It's nothing fancy but it breaks the cold winds. The cab heater also helps keep it toasty /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I like your cab - nice, simple, and light. Is there a windshield wiper on the front? I can't tell for sure. I've heard that Lexan is expensive. What made you choose it over, say, plexiglass?
If you can give any construction details, like how you attached the Lexan and the doors to the PVC frame, that would help a lot. Thanks for your post.
I chose lexan because it won't shatter or break like plexiglass. I picked up a 4x8 sheet for $100.00. I used self tapping sheet metal screws that have a rubber washer attached ,just like you would use on steel roofing to attach the lexan to the pvc.I do have a manual wiper fixed up on it .I used removable pin hinges on the doors so i could take the doors off easy. I'll try to attach some other photos.
Tom
I also used an old bed liner, cut it down,turned it upside down and used it for my roof. I heated up the front edge and bent it down. I'll try and take some other pictures if you need any specific info.
For those that are drilling and attaching for the first time, a few words of caution.
Both products want to be mounted with kinda sloppy oversized holes as the expansion rates or quite differant from metals that you normally will attache to.
If the holes are 'tight fit' you'll have cracks for sure.
I'd suggest drilling pilot holes first for alignment purposes and then enlargen one or even 2 drill sizes bigger on the plexi.
Always use a grommet or rubber washer to attach.
Also both products can shatter easily when drilling.
Keep as far from the edge as practible and use very light pressure. Liquid soap as a lubricant will help as will the 'bullet nosed drill bits'
I learned the hard way installing small aircraft windows!
If you can use it, the automotive double 'U' window channel rubber would be the best route to go (The stuff they use for truck windows and old school bus fixed windows)
Just some incredible workmanship by others building their Cabs on this thread but I like yours due to the simplicity of design & the fact that it should be something I can handle. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
Some additional pictures of the following areas would be very much appreciated.
- A close up of the fender area. How did you do the door fit in this area ??
- A close up shot of how you secured the PVC to the TRactor Body.
- An inside rear shot showing how you secured the PVC to the ROPS. (At least thats what I am assuming you did.)
- What type of heater did you use ??
Thanks for the pics so far & nice show of ingenuity on your part !
Here's a photo of the cab mount to the roll bar. I drilled a hole through the roll bar and the cab and placed a rubber block between the rollbar and the cab and used a lockwasher and wingnut to hold it in place.I picked up a coil spring rubber block at the auto store.