Homemade Cab?

[PILOON]

This shows a detail of corner where front window meets the roofline.
You will note that the galv sheet stock is merely attached with sheetmetal screws.
Also note the rain drip channels that I formed over the door.

Also note that I made the roof overhang the windshield to prevent water from dripping down over the window area.
This proved so effective that I rarely use the wiper that is installed.

This cab is now over 7 yrs old and has proven very effective.

 

[PILOON]

This photo shows my heater installation.

I used a rear 'under the seat' heater from the same school bus, but modified by installing a computer type 12v 'muffin' fan as they are 1.- more efficient, 1.-more compact.

The heater core is about 6" X6" and I believe made by Carter.

Top mounting proved to be the best location (by trial and error) and since it blows downwards it keeps feet warm!

I can operate at -20 c. very comfortably (coat open, no hat no gloves and toasty feet!)

 

[PILOON]

This is a tad unrelated, but here I show how I used an electric wheelchair drive motor to rotate my blower snow shute.

It has proven rugged enough to actually free itself from accumulated ice buildup in the chain mechanism.

This has been used for 2 years so far without any problem.

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Where did you find the wheel chair motor?

 

[Scozz]

That wheelchair motor was an awesome idea, very clever. Hope no one was using the chair you got it from! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[PILOON]

We have a 'flea market' near me and there is a vendor that has access to trade in wheelchairs that he parts out.

Lots of folks use the motors to drive tarp rolling mechanisms on dump trucks as well.

The motors are 24v. but work great on 12v. with lots of torque.

The $39. import winches often sold on EBay would probably convert easily for this application as well.
They also make great winches due to low speed and high torque.

They sell for $50.(cdn) making the install cheaper than hydraulics and in my opinion far better as it is much easier to run a bit af wire than lengths of hose and a valve.

Water is the enemy so you'd note in photo that I had slipped a piece of 4" drain pipe over the motor body to act as a 'rain cover' which is held in place with a large tyewrap.
Seems to do the trick.

I would believe windshield wiper motors might also do the trick as they are quite slow with lots of torque.

 

[PineRidge]

Our investment was a hydraulic motor we picked up at eBay for $16.05 plus two $13.95 each flow restrictors from Surplus center to slow the motor down and 2 short hydraulic hoses to make the connection.

With hydraulics you need not worry about the fact that water and electricity don't mix well.

I do think that most anyone can make the conversion using either electric or hydraulic components if they search a bit on the Internet and shop wisely.

 

[TMcD_in_MI]

PILOON,

Thanks for all the pictures showing your good work on the cab. I noticed some sort of quilted material acting as a headliner inside the cab. Was this for noise reduction? Did it help? What is it?

You have inspired me. I think I could do something like that, if I were to take some time away from trying to get my house finished.

Tom

 

[Bluecheck546]

Hey PILOON, AVESOME JOB... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[PILOON]

The quilting material is what they use for baggage compartement areas in some aircraft, Notabily in military cargo a/c.
It is both a vapor barrier and an insululation product and also deadens sound.
I sandwitched it in place before screwing on the roof with metal screws.
Main purpose was 1- for insulation 2- vapor barrier as I did not want condensation dripping on me..
It works well.

At one point I made up floor matts to keep the toesies warm but since have discarded as the heater blowing downwards more than adaquately handles the problem.

The heater location also allows a simple deflector device to direct heat towards the windshield, but not really needed.
Note that in this compact tractor, the heater location is about the only place that you won't bang into. And I'm 6' tall.

A radio is what is seen near the heater. (Sometimes gets boring when I blow snow for hours)

The flat pannels of galvanized stock were cut on a shear and the folds done on a metal brake. I seem to recal that the shop charged me about $70. with the metal included.
The 1 1/2" sq tubing I purchased in 20' lengths, cut and welded myself.

What I did was make firstly one side and then cloned the second by clamping them together before tacking side #2. This insured a fairly good geometry.
Strips of flat stock were welded to the bottoms of the sides to allow bolting to the MT180D floor boards.
The rear of the cab is supported by two 'struts' that attach to existing bolts on the differential rear end.

My guess is that the cab would constitute a fair ROP protection as well.

The access door is easily remouvable and spends the summer in storage. Being basically lazy, I leave the rest of the cab on as I find it provides good sun and rain protection.

Another good project would be to install airconditioning!LOL!

The electrics end up in a quick disconnect plug to allow remouval of the cab.