Homemade, prefab, concrete and pine post

[SIHunter]

I personally would not use the Perma column type posts. In my opinion it creates a hinge point that is not present with a 1 piece post from top to bottom.

 

[marhar]

What is your thought with the rebar?

What is it's purpose?

Rebar gives the tensile strength to concrete. If you do not use rebar use remesh (the wire placed in concrete). Without rebar reinforcement, concrete is highly prone to cracks due to tension forces. Rebar helps prevent cracks from growing wider largely by preventing cracked slabs from moving apart. I have made the mistake.

 

[fried1765]

I personally would not use the Perma column type posts. In my opinion it creates a hinge point that is not present with a 1 piece post from top to bottom.

For a single post, or even a free standing wall, your point is well taken.
For a structure with four walls, and corner wall bracing, I would not be concerned.

 

[Diggin It]

Rebar gives the tensile strength to concrete. If you do not use rebar use remesh (the wire placed in concrete). Without rebar reinforcement, concrete is highly prone to cracks due to tension forces. Rebar helps prevent cracks from growing wider largely by preventing cracked slabs from moving apart. I have made the mistake.

This thread is not about slabs.

 

[rbstern]

No matter where I build, I would use the Simpson Strong-ties (or similar) to anchor the wood to the concrete and at least soak the bottom of the wooden posts in a solution of diesel oil and the Copper anti-termite solution on any piece that touches dirt or concrete---I use a metal barrel and stand the posts in it for a few days---you'll see it soaking upwards. If you check the price of Hurricane ties for attaching rafters, etc. you'll see they are very cheap insurance.

Point taken about the cheap insurance offered by Simpson Strong-ties. And, also agreed, treating the posts at the concrete joint is an easy and inexpensive way to protect the wood from bugs, both seen and unseen.

 

[Thunder chicken]

A bit off the way you’re looking at doing it….. I did my 28x32 with 2x6 laminated posts. Dug holes and set ‘big foot’s’, then sonatubes. In the concrete we set a bracket similar to that sturdiwall bracket, although they were meant for deck posts (1 piece rebar about 8” long and the brackets are about 6” high, only a few bucks a piece). Building inspector was happy here.
I’ve left the floor as dirt for now and will pour a floating slab inside as funds allow. The only PT wood we used was for the ‘skirting’ around the base of the posts, to form a pocket for insulation, to insulate the edge of the slab once it’s poured.

 

[fried1765]

A bit off the way you’re looking at doing it….. I did my 28x32 with 2x6 laminated posts. Dug holes and set ‘big foot’s’, then sonatubes. In the concrete we set a bracket similar to that sturdiwall bracket, although they were meant for deck posts (1 piece rebar about 8” long and the brackets are about 6” high, only a few bucks a piece). Building inspector was happy here.
I’ve left the floor as dirt for now and will pour a floating slab inside as funds allow. The only PT wood we used was for the ‘skirting’ around the base of the posts, to form a pocket for insulation, to insulate the edge of the slab once it’s poured.

Those deck post brackets would likely not be approved by most inspectors for wall/roof hold down.
In deck use, posts are mostly in compression, while tall wall/roof posts may not be in compression during high winds.

 

[GadsdenMan]

I'm a civil/structural engineer, and I cringed a little when I read your post-to-footing solution. That one stick of 1/2 rebar will provide absolutely ZERO resistance to uplift, and next to absolutely ZERO resistance to lateral forces. I fear you'll be sorry (and sooner, not later) if you proceed that way. Use either the wet-set Simpson brackets in Sonotubes, or the PermaColumns, and you'll be good-to-go ! Also, I love the laminated, untreated post idea, as long as you keep the base of the wood at least 4'' above the finished floor elevation, which is easy to do with PermaColumns (I'm a big fan of these and used them on my own Shop Building). "Dipping" the bottom of the posts isn't a bad idea, especially if you're closer to the FF like you would be with the Simpson brackets... or you can start your laminated posts with treated 2x6's at the bottom. Happy building!!

 

[Thunder chicken]

Thanks for the insight on the deck connectors.
My bad, they are called ‘carport saddle’, and appear to be a ‘canadian’ thing. We actually looked for the larger brackets like shown earlier in the thread and no hardware stores around here had ever seen them. If it blows hard enough to fail these, then I’m sure there’ll be other things to worry about too. But thanks for the insight, it’s always interesting seeing how things are different in the various regions. We get the odd thunderstorm, but we do get -40 and frost

RCPS

The redesigned rebar carport saddle offers installation flexibility and new finishes.

www.strongtie.com

 

[quicksandfarmer]

A bit off the way you’re looking at doing it….. I did my 28x32 with 2x6 laminated posts. Dug holes and set ‘big foot’s’, then sonatubes. In the concrete we set a bracket similar to that sturdiwall bracket, although they were meant for deck posts (1 piece rebar about 8” long and the brackets are about 6” high, only a few bucks a piece). Building inspector was happy here.
I’ve left the floor as dirt for now and will pour a floating slab inside as funds allow. The only PT wood we used was for the ‘skirting’ around the base of the posts, to form a pocket for insulation, to insulate the edge of the slab once it’s poured.

Yeah, like you we also have snow loads, and a standard pole-barn is just a non-starter. We need roughly one square foot of footing for every 40 square feet of roof, a wooden post just isn't going to provide that. Once you have to pour footings a lot of the allure of a pole barn goes away.