Homemade Tool Bar for Garden Bedder aka Disc Hiller

[artcarneyagr]

Yeah, you can use grade 8 or whatever you think you need. I just made what was needed using some grade whoknows 1/2" bolts and some scrap pieces of 1/4" diamond plate to make the brackets. It's what I had in the shop, and is plenty tough enough. Welded the pipe to a 3"x5" piece of plate, and cut 4 pieces of the plate into
1 1/2"x5" straps. Maybe this picture shows the brackets better. I did use u-bolts similar to what you show for the cultivator shank mounted on the 3 point upright. Again, more than strong enough for the application. Hope this helps.

Edit: I need to correct some dimensions from my earlier post. The hiller crossbar was fabbed to 44" to fit inside the 48" footprint of my old 50 8N. I now have a 66 1020. It has a 5' center tread to center tread width. In both instances, the width of the hiller to tread width allows for cultivating the rows. Important for weed control, and in potatoes hilling or laying up in the rows. You're driving on an established tire track which is easier to keep 3 point tools on track and not digging up crops.

How tall is that mast (the vertical 2x2 going from the bar to the toplink)?

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

How tall is that mast (the vertical 2x2 going from the bar to the toplink)

25". With the lower pins located an inch below, or centered on the cross beam, this put the top link attachment at 26". IIRC that's a typical category 1 3 point standard. Sorry, I meant to put that measurement in the last post. Hope this helps.

 

[artcarneyagr]

25". With the lower pins located an inch below, or centered on the cross beam, this put the top link attachment at 26". IIRC that's a typical category 1 3 point standard. Sorry, I meant to put that measurement in the last post. Hope this helps.

Thanks! I'm planning on 24" so it sounds like I'm on the right path then.

 

[artcarneyagr]

25". With the lower pins located an inch below, or centered on the cross beam, this put the top link attachment at 26". IIRC that's a typical category 1 3 point standard. Sorry, I meant to put that measurement in the last post. Hope this helps.

Hey I have another question for you........I don't normally drill holes this large, I have a question about bolt/pin size and the correct drill bit to use.

The toplink pin is 3/4" - do I drill with a 3/4" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 13/16" ?

The bottom pins are 7/8" - do I drill with a 7/8" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 15/16" ?

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Hey I have another question for you........I don't normally drill holes this large, I have a question about bolt/pin size and the correct drill bit to use.

The toplink pin is 3/4" - do I drill with a 3/4" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 13/16" ?

The bottom pins are 7/8" - do I drill with a 7/8" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 15/16" ?

I'd recommend using plenty of lube/coolant, don't force the bit, and drill the correct size. If you drill the hole oversize for the pin, it allows the pin to move around, eventually egging out the hole. Most top link pins have a shoulder to stop the pin from going all the way through the hole. Drilling this hole oversize defeats the purpose of the shoulder. If the holes are to tight to allow snug fit, use a file to fit. Allow room for the nuts to attach the lynch pins on the lower lift links. Hope this helps.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

A number of years ago I built two 3pt tool holder frames.. And a number of attachments for the frames.. It worked well..
--- ---
First... At the location where you want the hole, drill a small hole first.. A hole about the size of the center tip of the drill.. A pilot hole, 1/8 or 3/16" will make it easier to drill the full size hole on location and to size easier..

Use drills the size of the hole you need.. For instance, for a 3/4 " hole, use a 3/4" drill.. It will usually be big enough to let a pin through..

The trick is in lining up the holes to get the pin through 2 tabs..

 

[bcp]

If you can't easily find the right U-bolts, just us a flat plate with 2 or 4 holes, and common hex bolts.

Bruce

 

[bmaverick]

A number of years ago I built two 3pt tool holder frames.. And a number of attachments for the frames.. It worked well..
--- ---
First... At the location where you want the hole, drill a small hole first.. A hole about the size of the center tip of the drill.. A pilot hole, 1/8 or 3/16" will make it easier to drill the full size hole on location and to size easier..

Use drills the size of the hole you need.. For instance, for a 3/4 " hole, use a 3/4" drill.. It will usually be big enough to let a pin through..

The trick is in lining up the holes to get the pin through 2 tabs..

WOW, that chisel plow you made can be very universal. Unbolt the chisels and then add in the discs for a garden hiller. Really nice work. I love it! That's a keeper to pattern from. Thanks a whole bunch!

 

[artcarneyagr]

Got it made! I've already used it to hill up my mounds in the garden, and planted potatoes with it. The ripper shank makes a nice little furrow, might add a small sweep onto it to get a little wider, and I can just flip it over out of the way when I make a pass to cover up the potatoes. Ripper shank also makes a nice support to keep it standing up when not in use. Very very handy thing to have! I think I may get some clamp-on S-tines and use it as a cultivator as well this summer on sunflower fields.

Steel - $200
U-bolts and pins - $40
Hiller disks, 2 ea - $130

2"x2" square tube is 1/4" thick
Plates/flats are 1/2" (probably overkill)
Angle for lower pins is 1/2"
U-bolts are all 1/2" diameter

 

[bmaverick]

Got it made! I've already used it to hill up my mounds in the garden, and planted potatoes with it. The ripper shank makes a nice little furrow, might add a small sweep onto it to get a little wider, and I can just flip it over out of the way when I make a pass to cover up the potatoes. Ripper shank also makes a nice support to keep it standing up when not in use. Very very handy thing to have! I think I may get some clamp-on S-tines and use it as a cultivator as well this summer on sunflower fields.

Steel - $200
U-bolts and pins - $40
Hiller disks, 2 ea - $130

2"x2" square tube is 1/4" thick
Plates/flats are 1/2" (probably overkill)
Angle for lower pins is 1/2"
U-bolts are all 1/2" diameter

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Your setup is over $500 for the hiller set up. Would it helped to just buy a 3PT bar and mount the hiller discs?

It's hard to beat a $325+shipping price over DIY.
Garden Line Row Builder

Looking at the present prices of post-C19, the 3PT bars are now insane. That link above is golden. It's not price spiked like things have gotten.
A simple 3PT bar from TSC is now above $260 on up.

Less than a decade ago, these items were UNDER $100.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/behlen-country-3-point-trailer-mover-80112560yel?cm_vc=-10005

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/county-line-trailer-mover?cm_vc=-10005

whew, there are products on Amazon still under $100.

Amazon.com : 3pt tow bar