Homemade Tool Bar for Garden Bedder aka Disc Hiller

[artcarneyagr]

In your original post, it's the 4th picture down. Date in the corner is Mar 7 2012. The picture shows the beta version when I was playing with the idea. A piece of 2" square is temporarily sandwiched between the upright, and the pipe to hold the cultivator shank. There are 2 nuts welded to the pipe to grip the shank.

The ground where our gardens are slope towards a swale. We use tote tanks to haul water in from the river. Open the valve and let it flow seems to be just the right rate to allow water to flow and soak in the rows. Typically, we get plenty of rain early on, till about June for the first crops (potatoes, green beans, cauliflower,etc). Only have to water the blackberries, raspberries, pumpkins, indian corn etc.

For your lower pins of your 3-pt hitch - it's 4" x 4" angle that you used for the pins?

 

[bmaverick]

Before toolbars came along cultivator frames were used by farmers. I have a couple of six footers. They can be found around here in scrap piles, fence lines, or junk yards pretty cheap. Holes are at 1 inch spacings. View attachment 738362View attachment 738363

Oh, don't give too many of those hole in angle iron tricks away. All around the country STOP SIGNS will then disappear and turned into farm equipment. LOL

 

[bmaverick]

Before toolbars came along cultivator frames were used by farmers. I have a couple of six footers. They can be found around here in scrap piles, fence lines, or junk yards pretty cheap. Holes are at 1 inch spacings. View attachment 738362View attachment 738363

When the neighbors Toro Zero-Turn died, I got the ROPS, but we couldn't find the hinge plates. The ROPS were of no use for him, so after he bought the Toro, he took them off immediately.

My plan was to make a DIY hiller from these Toro parts shown below. The width of the ROPS loop fits within the rear tire pattern of my machine.
Then using the bolt on hiller discs it's almost ready. I just have to be keen on the 3PT attachment

On many of the Japan made PTO tillers, the hiller could be manually put into place and angled as needed. It's rare to find these tillers with the hiller discs in North America.

With that said, I too am interested to make my own hiller for kennebec potatoes.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

For your lower pins of your 3-pt hitch - it's 4" x 4" angle that you used for the pins?

Yes.

 

[artcarneyagr]

Yes.

Thanks!

 

[artcarneyagr]

When the neighbors Toro Zero-Turn died, I got the ROPS, but we couldn't find the hinge plates. The ROPS were of no use for him, so after he bought the Toro, he took them off immediately.

My plan was to make a DIY hiller from these Toro parts shown below. The width of the ROPS loop fits within the rear tire pattern of my machine.
Then using the bolt on hiller discs it's almost ready. I just have to be keen on the 3PT attachment

On many of the Japan made PTO tillers, the hiller could be manually put into place and angled as needed. It's rare to find these tillers with the hiller discs in North America.

View attachment 738388



With that said, I too am interested to make my own hiller for kennebec potatoes.

That's a really cool setup!

 

[artcarneyagr]

Yes.

The 2"x2" bar - U-bolts for connection plates - were you able to use a 2" U-bolt (2" inside the legs) or did you have to go up to 2-1/16" or 2-1/8" between the legs? I'm afraid the 2" u-bolts won't clear the 2"x2" bar. What's your experience?


Two options I've found, if I have to go more than 2" - I'm thinking the Galvanized 2-1/16" between the legs would work best - any thoughts on that?

 

[bmaverick]

The 2"x2" bar - U-bolts for connection plates - were you able to use a 2" U-bolt (2" inside the legs) or did you have to go up to 2-1/16" or 2-1/8" between the legs? I'm afraid the 2" u-bolts won't clear the 2"x2" bar. What's your experience?


Two options I've found, if I have to go more than 2" - I'm thinking the Galvanized 2-1/16" between the legs would work best - any thoughts on that?

View attachment 738673

View attachment 738674

For the price, those look like Grade-2 strength exhaust U-bolt hanger types. Wimpy overall.

Grade-8 for the application is needed. Some are listed as 8.8. These are heat treated and coated.
These types of U-Bolts are the automotive grade to clasp down leaf springs. These would run about $10 to $18 each.
Even enclosed cargo trailers would use the higher strength Grade-8

Boat trailers uses stainless.

Leaf Spring Stainless Steel U-Bolt Kit Fits 2 x 2 Axles 5 1

www.sturdybuiltonline.com

Ford F-150 uses the 2.25 wide sq U-bolts if you need wider.

 

[artcarneyagr]

For the price, those look like Grade-2 strength exhaust U-bolt hanger types. Wimpy overall.

Grade-8 for the application is needed. Some are listed as 8.8. These are heat treated and coated.
These types of U-Bolts are the automotive grade to clasp down leaf springs. These would run about $10 to $18 each.
Even enclosed cargo trailers would use the higher strength Grade-8

View attachment 738689

Boat trailers uses stainless.

Leaf Spring Stainless Steel U-Bolt Kit Fits 2 x 2 Axles 5 1

www.sturdybuiltonline.com

View attachment 738691

Ford F-150 uses the 2.25 wide sq U-bolts if you need wider.

View attachment 738692

I went with these 1/2" diameter galvanized ones, which are the same ones used on my boat trailer with a 2x2 square axle. Should be more than ample strength with 1/2" diameter.

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Yeah, you can use grade 8 or whatever you think you need. I just made what was needed using some grade whoknows 1/2" bolts and some scrap pieces of 1/4" diamond plate to make the brackets. It's what I had in the shop, and is plenty tough enough. Welded the pipe to a 3"x5" piece of plate, and cut 4 pieces of the plate into
1 1/2"x5" straps. Maybe this picture shows the brackets better. I did use u-bolts similar to what you show for the cultivator shank mounted on the 3 point upright. Again, more than strong enough for the application. Hope this helps.

Edit: I need to correct some dimensions from my earlier post. The hiller crossbar was fabbed to 44" to fit inside the 48" footprint of my old 50 8N. I now have a 66 1020. It has a 5' center tread to center tread width. In both instances, the width of the hiller to tread width allows for cultivating the rows. Important for weed control, and in potatoes hilling or laying up in the rows. You're driving on an established tire track which is easier to keep 3 point tools on track and not digging up crops.

 

[artcarneyagr]

Yeah, you can use grade 8 or whatever you think you need. I just made what was needed using some grade whoknows 1/2" bolts and some scrap pieces of 1/4" diamond plate to make the brackets. It's what I had in the shop, and is plenty tough enough. Welded the pipe to a 3"x5" piece of plate, and cut 4 pieces of the plate into
1 1/2"x5" straps. Maybe this picture shows the brackets better. I did use u-bolts similar to what you show for the cultivator shank mounted on the 3 point upright. Again, more than strong enough for the application. Hope this helps.

Edit: I need to correct some dimensions from my earlier post. The hiller crossbar was fabbed to 44" to fit inside the 48" footprint of my old 50 8N. I now have a 66 1020. It has a 5' center tread to center tread width. In both instances, the width of the hiller to tread width allows for cultivating the rows. Important for weed control, and in potatoes hilling or laying up in the rows. You're driving on an established tire track which is easier to keep 3 point tools on track and not digging up crops.

How tall is that mast (the vertical 2x2 going from the bar to the toplink)?

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

How tall is that mast (the vertical 2x2 going from the bar to the toplink)

25". With the lower pins located an inch below, or centered on the cross beam, this put the top link attachment at 26". IIRC that's a typical category 1 3 point standard. Sorry, I meant to put that measurement in the last post. Hope this helps.

 

[artcarneyagr]

25". With the lower pins located an inch below, or centered on the cross beam, this put the top link attachment at 26". IIRC that's a typical category 1 3 point standard. Sorry, I meant to put that measurement in the last post. Hope this helps.

Thanks! I'm planning on 24" so it sounds like I'm on the right path then.

 

[artcarneyagr]

25". With the lower pins located an inch below, or centered on the cross beam, this put the top link attachment at 26". IIRC that's a typical category 1 3 point standard. Sorry, I meant to put that measurement in the last post. Hope this helps.

Hey I have another question for you........I don't normally drill holes this large, I have a question about bolt/pin size and the correct drill bit to use.

The toplink pin is 3/4" - do I drill with a 3/4" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 13/16" ?

The bottom pins are 7/8" - do I drill with a 7/8" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 15/16" ?

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Hey I have another question for you........I don't normally drill holes this large, I have a question about bolt/pin size and the correct drill bit to use.

The toplink pin is 3/4" - do I drill with a 3/4" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 13/16" ?

The bottom pins are 7/8" - do I drill with a 7/8" drill bit or do I need to go up to a 15/16" ?

I'd recommend using plenty of lube/coolant, don't force the bit, and drill the correct size. If you drill the hole oversize for the pin, it allows the pin to move around, eventually egging out the hole. Most top link pins have a shoulder to stop the pin from going all the way through the hole. Drilling this hole oversize defeats the purpose of the shoulder. If the holes are to tight to allow snug fit, use a file to fit. Allow room for the nuts to attach the lynch pins on the lower lift links. Hope this helps.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

A number of years ago I built two 3pt tool holder frames.. And a number of attachments for the frames.. It worked well..
--- ---
First... At the location where you want the hole, drill a small hole first.. A hole about the size of the center tip of the drill.. A pilot hole, 1/8 or 3/16" will make it easier to drill the full size hole on location and to size easier..

Use drills the size of the hole you need.. For instance, for a 3/4 " hole, use a 3/4" drill.. It will usually be big enough to let a pin through..

The trick is in lining up the holes to get the pin through 2 tabs..

 

[bcp]

If you can't easily find the right U-bolts, just us a flat plate with 2 or 4 holes, and common hex bolts.

Bruce

 

[bmaverick]

A number of years ago I built two 3pt tool holder frames.. And a number of attachments for the frames.. It worked well..
--- ---
First... At the location where you want the hole, drill a small hole first.. A hole about the size of the center tip of the drill.. A pilot hole, 1/8 or 3/16" will make it easier to drill the full size hole on location and to size easier..

Use drills the size of the hole you need.. For instance, for a 3/4 " hole, use a 3/4" drill.. It will usually be big enough to let a pin through..

The trick is in lining up the holes to get the pin through 2 tabs..

WOW, that chisel plow you made can be very universal. Unbolt the chisels and then add in the discs for a garden hiller. Really nice work. I love it! That's a keeper to pattern from. Thanks a whole bunch!

 

[artcarneyagr]

Got it made! I've already used it to hill up my mounds in the garden, and planted potatoes with it. The ripper shank makes a nice little furrow, might add a small sweep onto it to get a little wider, and I can just flip it over out of the way when I make a pass to cover up the potatoes. Ripper shank also makes a nice support to keep it standing up when not in use. Very very handy thing to have! I think I may get some clamp-on S-tines and use it as a cultivator as well this summer on sunflower fields.

Steel - $200
U-bolts and pins - $40
Hiller disks, 2 ea - $130

2"x2" square tube is 1/4" thick
Plates/flats are 1/2" (probably overkill)
Angle for lower pins is 1/2"
U-bolts are all 1/2" diameter

 

[bmaverick]

Got it made! I've already used it to hill up my mounds in the garden, and planted potatoes with it. The ripper shank makes a nice little furrow, might add a small sweep onto it to get a little wider, and I can just flip it over out of the way when I make a pass to cover up the potatoes. Ripper shank also makes a nice support to keep it standing up when not in use. Very very handy thing to have! I think I may get some clamp-on S-tines and use it as a cultivator as well this summer on sunflower fields.

Steel - $200
U-bolts and pins - $40
Hiller disks, 2 ea - $130

2"x2" square tube is 1/4" thick
Plates/flats are 1/2" (probably overkill)
Angle for lower pins is 1/2"
U-bolts are all 1/2" diameter

View attachment 741507

View attachment 741508

View attachment 741509

Your setup is over $500 for the hiller set up. Would it helped to just buy a 3PT bar and mount the hiller discs?

It's hard to beat a $325+shipping price over DIY.
Garden Line Row Builder

Looking at the present prices of post-C19, the 3PT bars are now insane. That link above is golden. It's not price spiked like things have gotten.
A simple 3PT bar from TSC is now above $260 on up.

Less than a decade ago, these items were UNDER $100.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/behlen-country-3-point-trailer-mover-80112560yel?cm_vc=-10005

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/county-line-trailer-mover?cm_vc=-10005

whew, there are products on Amazon still under $100.

Amazon.com : 3pt tow bar