HOMEMADE TRACTOR START

[BHD]

your to far along with your frame for this Idea, but I thought use some combine final drives and drive them from a narrow small differential, you would get a nice reduction and then it would be about right to have a regular drive train,

 

[Steve C]

Nice project,
Like most projects it will evolve as it goes on, the other posters are right you are going to need more gear reduction that engine isn't going to like lugging around and your breaks are going to wear out fast tring to hold it back.
5.13 is the one of the largest gears you can get for that rear.
here are a few options that come to mind
2 transfercases linked together would give you a crawl raito of about 100 to 1and a lot of gears to play with but you will have to lenghten the tractor about 2-3 feet.

Another idea is 2 rear ends this idea would give you a lot of ground clearance.
take another rear end and cut the center (diff) out of it turn it 90 degrees so the tube or axles would point up and down and the input points to the tranny. weld/spool up this diff. and spline the bottem axle use a coupler to the original rear which will have to be rotated pointed up. so the input is of the new diff connects to the tranny and the axle pointed down is the input for the original rear end. cap off the top axle tube. I hope I explained it well enought that you get the idea this idea would keep you from having to lenghten the tractor with multiple trannys and transfercases.
I hope this help I have built a few monsters in my day and have learned something new from everyone of them.

That is a great idea, if he uses a 3-1 or 4-1 rear end ratio to drive his origional 5-1 he will end up with a 15-1 or 20-1 overall for the rear end. I don't think you would have to raise the tractor to do it, just think outside the box a little. A post hole digger gearbox would be perfect for that application. The one on my PHD was made from an old outomotive axel and it would also work but isn't as compact ..

the origional axel could be rototated with the input shaft pointing up. The post hole gearbox could be mounted behind it and offset to one side with its output shaft pointing up and the input shaft pointing forward, and located just above or below the origional drive axel shaft whatever worked out best, I suspect below would be better. Then a chain and sprocket drive could be fabricated to connect the output shaft of the PHD gearbox to the input shaft of the origional rear end now that they are both pointing up and the ratios could be almost infinitly adjusted by just swapping out the sprocket sizes to best fit the desired overall ratio. The chain drive could live in the area under the seat, and the position of the origional rear axel could remain the same. It could be a very compact arrangement with great results.
You could even build a sealed chaincase.

On second thought you could just fab a chain reduction. Rotate the input shaft of the axel up a little, fab a pillow block bearing support for the driveshat end that places it below the axel input shaft and parallel to it, you might have to shorten the drive shaft a little. mount a 15 tooth sproket on the driveshaft and a 45 tooth sprocket on the rear end input shaft, fab a cover/scatter shield for it and you are done with no sacrifice of ground clearance and without taking up a lot of realestate with mechanical parts for an efective overall ratio of 15 to 1 or use a combination of a 12 tooth sprocket and a 48 tooth sprocket for an overall ration of 20 to 1. Some good 630 O ring chain and sprockets from an old Kawasaki 900 or 1000 should do the trick.

 

[cranker]

Time for an update!!!!
I have finished the steering arms on the spindles. They are made from 1/4 in steel and plated with 1/8th. The steering rods are made from 1"x .120 wall tubing and 1/2in heim joints. Here are the pics. Still working on my tig welding so please be gentle on the beads. This is only my second project using the tig.

ALso i have a transfer case from a sammy coming.

Thanks Crank

 

[jaquetarr]

Don't know where you learned to weld, but from your pictures you have NO cause for concern as to the quality.
Very nice work all 'round.
Rgds,
tim

 

[cranker]

Just a few quick pics on the current work.

What do they say one step forward and two steps back. lol

Well it was a rolling chassis for a few weeks..

Dont worry the tcase gets clocked at a bout a 45 degree angle so the output/input will line up better to the diff.

Thanks Tom

 

[Mace Canute]

From Suzuki Samurai - Four Wheeler Magazine : "The stock transfer-case mount is adequate when exposed to the low torque of the stock motor and gearing. Once lower transfer-case gears or a larger motor are installed, the transfer-case mounting arm can fail."
They show their beefed up arm and you could probably fab up something similar to eliminate any potential problem.

 

[cranker]

i will definetly make my own mount. Those are just on there from me picking it up today.
Thanks for the heads up..

 

[Diamondpilot]

You did good by getting a t case at this point. It would have been to darn fast without it.

Nice work.

Chris

 

[jgandee]

nice looking project. that should be a power house with the t-case and tires. BUT, i dont see a door big enough to get it out of the shop through. hehe!

 

[cranker]

jgandee, thanks there is a 11 foot door at the side of the shop.