Honda EX5500 Generator - no power output

[dcyrilc]

OK, need some help here guys.

I've got an EX5500 which went through a fire about 11 years ago. Actually, the exhaust caught the wall on fire and the heat scorched the paint on the area near the muffler and over the fuel tank.

After the fire, the generator ran great, but the power wasn't stable and would spike. I turned off the fuel, ran the carb dry, and put it aside with the intention of fixing it later. Well, later turned out to be 11 years.:laughing:

I've replaced the fuel tank due to rust inside, replaced filters, oil, and battery. It starts and runs great, but now I only have 4 volts output on the 110 side of the generator and 2 volts on the 12 volt side. I figured the automatic voltage regulator had been overheated and died while sitting so I replaced it. No change. Same voltage outputs.

Anyone have any other ideas? I keep going through the schematics, but just don't see anything else in the circuit to cause this. Ideas?

 

[KJINTF]

Hi,

I have the very same 1996 EX5500 generator, it's been great. Additionally I have the factory shop manual (paper not electronic) which supplies far greater detail than the "Wiring Diagram" on page #43 of the owners manual. The owners is a PDF file and can be sent your way if needed, Happy to email you a few pictures of the electrical system if that is of any help. My guess is that the coil got hot and shorted, however that is only a guess. You would need to have a quality DVM to determine if indeed this is the problem. All the parts are still available from many places on line.

Ken

 

[dcyrilc]

Hi,

I have the very same 1996 EX5500 generator, it's been great. Additionally I have the factory shop manual (paper not electronic) which supplies far greater detail than the "Wiring Diagram" on page #43 of the owners manual. The owners is a PDF file and can be sent your way if needed, Happy to email you a few pictures of the electrical system if that is of any help. My guess is that the coil got hot and shorted, however that is only a guess. You would need to have a quality DVM to determine if indeed this is the problem. All the parts are still available from many places on line.

Ken

Thanks Ken,

I have the owners manual and ordered the factory shop manual today. I'm thinking the same thing you are about the coil shorting. Being an electrician by trade, I have several good quality DVMs. Does the shop manual give exploded views with part numbers or will I need the parts manual as well?

 

[KJINTF]

No parts numbers in the shop manual but you can get them all at "Boats.net" on line - I have found they have about every part and part number you will ever need.

Ken

 

[dcyrilc]

No parts numbers in the shop manual but you can get them all at "Boats.net" on line - I have found they have about every part and part number you will ever need.

Ken

Thanks for that link. I'm not looking forward to see what this is going to cost. Some of those parts get expensive. But then, so is the generator I guess.:laughing:

Should have the repair manual next week, so we'll see what happens from there. I'll document what I find when I get back into troubleshooting this thing.

 

[Gator6x4]

You may want to try this prior to starting on major repairs.

I've never had to do that but here's a link about a rather easy thing to
try:

PER Notebook - Generator Field Flashing


Field Flashing of Portable Generators

This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department.
As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to
the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash
the generator:

Plug the electric drill into the generator receptacle. (Cordless drills
do not work)
If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward
position.
Start the generator

While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in
reverse direction. (A neighbor tried this and used a small wooden dowel that will break easily and a batterry drill to spin the electric drill in reverse)This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the
reverse switch positioned backwards.

Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck.
As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and
the drill will turn on.

The reason this works is because the electric motor
in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's
motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back
through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there
it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through
the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to
the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this
magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a
voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor
winding the rotor has been flashed.

If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have
additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further
testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field
flash your generator if needed

 

[dcyrilc]

You may want to try this prior to starting on major repairs.

I've never had to do that but here's a link about a rather easy thing to
try:

PER Notebook - Generator Field Flashing


Field Flashing of Portable Generators

This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department.
As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to
the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash
the generator:

Plug the electric drill into the generator receptacle. (Cordless drills
do not work)
If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward
position.
Start the generator

While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in
reverse direction. (A neighbor tried this and used a small wooden dowel that will break easily and a batterry drill to spin the electric drill in reverse)This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the
reverse switch positioned backwards.

Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck.
As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and
the drill will turn on.

The reason this works is because the electric motor
in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's
motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back
through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there
it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through
the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to
the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this
magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a
voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor
winding the rotor has been flashed.

If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have
additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further
testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field
flash your generator if needed

Interesting. I've never heard of something like that. I'll have to take some time to read the link you gave. Thanks.:thumbsup:

 

[dcyrilc]

You may want to try this prior to starting on major repairs.

I've never had to do that but here's a link about a rather easy thing to
try:

Field Flashing of Portable Generators...

I read through it and thought about it for a bit. I'm not sure this will work as my generator uses an exciter coil to control output voltage, but I'm going to give it a try anyway.

Now I just have to find where I put my corded drill.:laughing: Haven't used it in a couple of years. Just keep using the cordless.

 

[crazyal]

I love how they say a cordless drills do not work. I'll I could think of was someone sitting there plugging in his battery charger into the gen and then turning the chuck on his cordless and wondering why it wasn't working.

 

[dcyrilc]

I love how they say a cordless drills do not work. I'll I could think of was someone sitting there plugging in his battery charger into the gen and then turning the chuck on his cordless and wondering why it wasn't working.

I had a similar mental picture.:laughing:

 

[dcyrilc]

Got the manual ordered yesterday. I should have it sometime next week.

 

[dcyrilc]

Received my shop manual Friday. Now I guess it's time to sit down and do some reading.

 

[dcyrilc]

Well, I tore into the generator today. What a pain in the rear.

I started by taking readings on the brush contacts for the rotor. Spec calls for 50-75 ohms. At the brush contacts it read 549 ohms. The book then calls to remove the brushes and take readings on the slip plates for the brushes. I could not get to them so I treated the rotor as if it were bad meaning disassembly for removal. Here is a pic of the generator, or what was left of it, after disassembly.


Once I got the front cover off the stator, I could see that the slip plates on the rotor were black. I took new readings and had a result of 59 ohms. The rotor is fine. I then spent about 1/2 hour cleaning the slip plates to get them back into good condition. Poor pix from my cell phone, but here are some pix of the rotor.


I'll be ordering new brushes and then testing again. I got the generator most of the way back together tonight. I felt that a certain portion of the reassembly needed to be done today while I still remembered how it came apart. The hardest part was actually figuring out how to get to the bolts for removing and reinstalling the muffler.:confused2:

 

[dcyrilc]

I got the brushes and got them put on. 58 ohms through the brushes now. Still have to finish putting it back together. Probably won't have time to do that until November though. Already put in 42 hours of overtime at work this month and no breaks in sight until the end of the month.

 

[dcyrilc]

Today was my first day off since the 3rd. Got the generator reassembled and tested. Runs like it did when it was new. Couldn't ask for better results.:thumbsup:

 

[felix3005]

Hallo dcyrilc , hallo to washington,

first of all I will thank you for that brilliant posting about your successful job on the EX5500 ! :thumbsup: And for your scary pix too ! :confused2:

(sorry for my lousy english but I am a German "Kraut", writing from Berlin, Germany )

Since my EX5500 Gene unfortunately will not listen to my prayers anymore denieing all power output now ( no green pilot lamp, no voltage on voltmeter, no power to read on the screw contacts behind the receptacle panel ( white and brown cables on contacts from rotor/stator ) I am getting prepared to go into this job too. ( Good grieff ! )

Therefore I have some questions if that is ok here :

1
Do you know the Honda Part No. of those rotor/stator brushes ?
I will try to order them here in Germany / Europe.

2
And do you have any idea where I might get a service and part manual for the --> stator/rotor with exact drawings of all the parts ?
(not for manual of the EX5500 itself)

3
Do you know who manufactured the rotor/stator ?
It's not Honda , and not GE ?

4
Did you try the "flashing" idea to wake up the alternator with an electric drill to reanimate the magnetic field of the stator before you disambled your babe ?

5
And do you think, that it could be enough to dissamble the right cover and the radiator, to get to the rotor/stator to change the brushes ?
Or do I really have to strip it all like shown on your breathtakin' images ?
Would it be really neccessary to remove the stator/rotor complete off frame, to open and change the brushes ?

I hope that my 5 questions are not to stupid and I would be more than happy to hear from you .

Many thanx in advance and

Best greetings and Cheers
from

Michael , Berlin Germany (Gardener)

mail : xpcx [at] kainerda. de

 

[dcyrilc]

Hello Felix,

Sorry for taking so long to reply. We have been moving and I just discovered your post/eMail today.

I'll try to track down what answers to your questions that I can and post back in the next week or so.

Again, sorry for the delay.

Hallo dcyrilc , hallo to washington,

first of all I will thank you for that brilliant posting about your successful job on the EX5500 ! :thumbsup: And for your scary pix too ! :confused2:

(sorry for my lousy english but I am a German "Kraut", writing from Berlin, Germany )

Since my EX5500 Gene unfortunately will not listen to my prayers anymore denieing all power output now ( no green pilot lamp, no voltage on voltmeter, no power to read on the screw contacts behind the receptacle panel ( white and brown cables on contacts from rotor/stator ) I am getting prepared to go into this job too. ( Good grieff ! )

Therefore I have some questions if that is ok here :

1
Do you know the Honda Part No. of those rotor/stator brushes ?
I will try to order them here in Germany / Europe.

2
And do you have any idea where I might get a service and part manual for the --> stator/rotor with exact drawings of all the parts ?
(not for manual of the EX5500 itself)

3
Do you know who manufactured the rotor/stator ?
It's not Honda , and not GE ?

4
Did you try the "flashing" idea to wake up the alternator with an electric drill to reanimate the magnetic field of the stator before you disambled your babe ?

5
And do you think, that it could be enough to dissamble the right cover and the radiator, to get to the rotor/stator to change the brushes ?
Or do I really have to strip it all like shown on your breathtakin' images ?
Would it be really neccessary to remove the stator/rotor complete off frame, to open and change the brushes ?

I hope that my 5 questions are not to stupid and I would be more than happy to hear from you .

Many thanx in advance and

Best greetings and Cheers
from

Michael , Berlin Germany (Gardener)

mail : xpcx [at] kainerda. de

 

[felix3005]

Hallo dcyrilc ,

thank you so much for your friendly reply... especially when you had to move these weeks... it always sucks. Absolutely no problem with the "delay".. Fully understandable!

But will be more than happy to hear from you again as soon as you find the right time.

Best greetings over the ocean
felix3005

 

[tlambert]

You may want to try this prior to starting on major repairs.

I've never had to do that but here's a link about a rather easy thing to
try:

PER Notebook - Generator Field Flashing


Field Flashing of Portable Generators

This tip comes from the Briggs & Stratton Customer Education Department.
As an alternative to flashing a rotor winding with a battery applied to
the brushes, an electric drill may be used. Follow these steps to flash
the generator:

Plug the electric drill into the generator receptacle. (Cordless drills
do not work)
If the drill is reversible, move the direction switch to the forward
position.
Start the generator

While depressing the trigger on the drill, spin the drill chuck in
reverse direction. (A neighbor tried this and used a small wooden dowel that will break easily and a batterry drill to spin the electric drill in reverse)This will excite the field and the generator will now produce electricity. If spinning the chuck one direction does not work, try spinning the chuck in the other direction as you may have the
reverse switch positioned backwards.

Use caution not to get your hand or other materials caught in the chuck.
As soon as the field is excited, the generator will produce power and
the drill will turn on.

The reason this works is because the electric motor
in the drill will act as a small generator when spun backwards. The magnets in the drill's
motor induce a voltage into the motor windings, which is fed back
through the trigger, cord and into the generators receptacle. From there
it goes into the power winding of the stator. The voltage going through
the power winding creates a magnetic field, which is intensified due to
the iron core of the stator laminations. The rotor intersects this
magnetic field as it is spun past the power winding, thus inducing a
voltage in the rotor winding. Once current flow is present in the rotor
winding the rotor has been flashed.

If flashing the field does not make the generator work, you may have
additional problems, besides a lack of magnetism in the rotor. Further
testing will be needed. Hopefully, this will give a simple way to field
flash your generator if needed

It worked great,that is what it needed. Thank you Todd Lambert Holderness NH

 

[felix3005]

thanx tlambert.

But I tried that already with no success. I shurely need the brushes or a kind of a repair kit to overhaul the gene soon. Unfortunately I can not find a dealer here who knows about the distributors part numbers etc. Somebody told me to try in the U.K... but I found no contact/adress.

And dcyrilc has obviousely not visited these pages lately.. He wrote that he has ordered the brushes some years ago..

Thanx anyway for your kind link.

best wishes

felix