Hood peeling

[MrChris]

If what you are saying is true, (about what looks like glass) then the newer ones are different, because the only glass that is in mine is the actual light bulb itself. I have seen where the silvering has gone bad on the reflector because so much water had gotten in past the front yellowing lenses that seems to be common. Just a note, the ONLY clear lense that I have ever seen was-is mine after it was replaced with a new one out of a box. It would still be clear if it didn't have dirt all over it on the (sealed :laughing inside.

You will get a much better job from the paint shop if you strip the hood of the grill, hood ornament and hinge hardware. I hope that they are going to put new decals on for you, that would be nice. Maybe ask them if they are, or see how much more to put new ones on if they aren't going to.

Good luck

Took pic of headlights so you can see the actual face. On the bottom front of each headlight is a manufacturer and part #(IMASEN ELECCO 1111-232)

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Took pic of headlights so you can see the actual face. On the bottom front of each headlight is a manufacturer and part #(IMASEN ELECCO 1111-232)

Thanks for the picture, is the plastic that is behind the front lense painted silver or is it chromed? My tractor is not right here, I will check it out this weekend. Something else is different, I think around the headlight area, but without having pictures side by side I don't want to guess.

 

[MrChris]

Thanks for the picture, is the plastic that is behind the front lense painted silver or is it chromed? My tractor is not right here, I will check it out this weekend. Something else is different, I think around the headlight area, but without having pictures side by side I don't want to guess.

Hard to tell for sure but I would say it's a chrome-like paint finish.

 

[Sergei]

I would have to rate the plastic that cover the lenses as being "CHEAP" in quality as I'm seen some yellowing in mind also and mind never sits outside in the weather. Today I checked my 8 year old Sears 5000 garden tractor and the plastic lenses on it looks like new, nice and clear.

Wonder if they'll do a recall????

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would have to rate the plastic that cover the lenses as being "CHEAP" in quality as I'm seen some yellowing in mind also and mind never sits outside in the weather. Today I checked my 8 year old Sears 5000 garden tractor and the plastic lenses on it looks like new, nice and clear.

Wonder if they'll do a recall????

A recall, :laughing: they won't even warranty it when it's under the first year of warranty. It still makes me mad when they acknowledge that yes there is a problem with the design of the lense-grill piece, but won't do anything about it. The attitude seems to be that it is a tractor and why should or does anyone really care. That is-was my take on it when I talked to several of the Mahindra factory reps at the Tulare World AG Expo back in February.:smiley_aafz:

 

[Sergei]

I found this on the Eastwood Shop Talk forum which has to do with clearcoat peel and thought it might be helpful.

clearcoat peel

For a lot of clearcoat what you need to do is do a VERY light sand..... build up to 2000 grit and then do a light polish. You can take it to a good auto detailing shop and have them do it...

 

[ray66v]

I found this on the Eastwood Shop Talk forum which has to do with clearcoat peel and thought it might be helpful.

clearcoat peel

For a lot of clearcoat what you need to do is do a VERY light sand..... build up to 2000 grit and then do a light polish. You can take it to a good auto detailing shop and have them do it...

I don't know where this kind of thinking comes from, but trust me, that won't produce any kind of a acceptable repair.

I have spent my whole life doing this work, and I could not fix it that way.

Every time I sand a light nick, or scratch out of a car to repair it, (nearly every day), I am disproving the theory that you can sand an edge like that down, and not have to repaint it.

The manufacturer has already agreed to pay to refinish it, so it is a moot point anyway.

 

[Sergei]

Remember we're only talking about a tractor on this forum and not a car so for some it might be acceptable others not so and if the tractor is out of warranty I really doubt they will take it to a body shop for repair because of the the cost. Other than that the site appears to have some good stuff that some forum members may find useful.

 

[ray66v]

Remember we're only talking about a tractor on this forum and not a car so for some it might be acceptable others not so and if the tractor is out of warranty I really doubt they will take it to a body shop for repair because of the the cost. Other than that the site appears to have some good stuff that some forum members may find useful.

I fully understand that point.

But believe me, I am positive this is not even going to help enough to even bother trying.

I have repaired this type of thing countless times.

The edge of the clear is usually 5-10 mills higher than the color coat, the color coat is only usually 2-4 mills thick. Sanding down and buffing that much clear takes much more than a "VERY light sanding", and a "light polish". And since some of the area where there is only color will also be sanded at the same time, you will break through the color, and be looking at primer, long before the edge of clear feathers out. Once that happens, you were a lot better off with it the way it was, before you started.

Perhaps if there is a thin layer of clear, and a heavy layer of color, (this never happens, it's always the other way around), you possibly could sand it enough to minimize the visible edge of the clear. But, keep in mind the clear changes the color, and there will always be a noticeable difference in the color where there is no clear. So it will always look basically the same. In a best case scenario, where you don't go too far, It will only feel smother to the touch.

So, it might make you, and it, "feel" better, but it really won't look better.

 

[Sergei]

I'm sure your right about the effect this would have on this type problem and the correct way to repair it and any other way it's not going to look perfect, but again I'm sure that most tractor manufacture are not going to use the same type paint and finish that is found on cars or trucks, now JD might be the exception. Automotive finish just has to look better and everything you mention is needed to have that good finish since you appear to have the experience with body work. But you know to keep a good finish you have to wash and wax it and not many people/farmers are going to do that to their tractors let alone bring them out of the weather.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'm sure your right about the effect this would have on this type problem and the correct way to repair it and any other way it's not going to look perfect, but again I'm sure that most tractor manufacture are not going to use the same type paint and finish that is found on cars or trucks, now JD might be the exception. Automotive finish just has to look better and everything you mention is needed to have that good finish since you appear to have the experience with body work. But you know to keep a good finish you have to wash and wax it and not many people/farmers are going to do that to their tractors let alone bring them out of the weather.

Just wondering why you think that JD might have an auto type finish? My limited experience is that none of the tractors have clear coat as an OEM finish.

 

[Sergei]

I only said they MIGHT be the exception and never mentioned a type of finish. I really don't know for sure what they use but whatever JD is using for their paint process they sure look nice and bright, maybe it's just the green.

Searched and found this on JD web site.

Parts at John Deere Harvester are immersed 10 times during the pre-paint process. Each of the 10 stages contains approximately 50,000 gallons of continuously circulated liquid that may reach temperatures of 150 degrees F.

After the pre-treatment process, a coat of paint (0.8-1.0-mil) is applied and baked for 68 minutes at 275 degrees F. The three-stage electrocoat process is capable of operating at 600 volts and 2000 degrees. At this stage of the paint process, four Fanuc P200 robots capable of painting 39-inches per second apply a final topcoat. Under normal conditions, a part is involved in the paint process for approximately 5 hours from start to finish.

 

[MrChris]

Well, I've left a phone message every week to my old dealer and they haven't called me back still. Guess it's not a go for them to repair the hood. I'm gonna continue to call till they at least give me a definitive no! Hope it's not necessary for me to drive over there just to be able to get a response.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Mrchris, since it looks like you are going to have to pay to get this repaired, would you remove the hood and then grill & hinges? My thinking is that new decals are going to be what cost the most for this repair. I would guess that for less than $300 you can have this better than new again. It sucks that this type of thing happens, but it does and the person that it happens to usually has to suck it up and pay for the repair. Believe me, in no way am I saying that it is right, just that that is how it usually is. I know, because it seems like I have had more than my fair share of these types of things. :mur: