horses and goat fencing

/ horses and goat fencing #21  
My experience with 4x4 fence and horses is that the horses destroy it stepping on it, particularly when they are trying to eat the grass on the other side. Never had a horse get caught or injured in it, but that is probably only because the fence didn稚 last long enough.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Do you think that the 3x3 spacing is enough to keep horses from destroying it? Now that I'm really getting into seeing what's out there and educating myself on the choices, it seems like the 2x4 is the most common. I just haven't found it with a class 3 galvanized finish or in high tensile. Both seem to be important in how long the fence lasts.

I've never regretting spending more for the best, but I do have a history of regretting it when I spend less for something.
 
/ horses and goat fencing #23  
I don't know if they still stock it but about five years ago I got class III 2x4 from Kencove. It was 48" which may not be enough for horses.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#24  
https://kencove.com/fence/2+x+4+Woven+Horse+Fence_detail_WH4.php

I've been looking for something like this locally. It meets two out of three goals. Class 3 and 2x4 spacing. It's not high tensile, and from what I'm reading, high tensile is a lot better quality of metal. Shipping for one roll is estimated to be an additional $150 from their website. If I could find it locally, I might be tempted.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Problem with welded wire, or wire mesh, is that it doesn't follow the contour of the ground like woven wire does. It is also easy to break the welds when tightening it, or when something large, like a horse, hits it. It's a lot cheaper, but not what I want to do 5,000 feet of.

I was at Lowes yesterday and looked at their Redbrand 2x4 horse fence. It's nice, it's cheap, but it's Class 1, which is the lowest level of galvanizing. I've seen a lot of rusted out fencing and I know that's what this will do in ten years or less.

They also had 4 foot tall, 50 foot long, 11.5 gauge, cyclone fencing for $64, or $1.28 a linear foot that kind of got me to thinking, but then when you add in all the other hardware, it becomes too expensive, and probably not a good idea.
 
/ horses and goat fencing #27  
This is who I used. Its been up for about 10 years.

staytuff dot com

Its sold by McCoys in Tyler.

I've really been happy with it. Fence wire3.JPG
 
/ horses and goat fencing #28  
If you have the potential for trees/limbs to fall on it get high tensile.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#29  
If you have the potential for trees/limbs to fall on it get high tensile.

When my neighbor bought his land, the very first thing that he did was hire a fencing company to run five strand barb wire around his property and also divide it into pastures. I believe he said that he got a deal at a buck a foot for them to do this and he spent over $30,000

Every winter, the pine trees drop branches on it and by the time Spring arrives, he has a dozen areas that have been destroyed. He has never had any livestock, he changed his mind on that and leaves all his gates wide open. Every couple of years he'll fix the fence, but it's never ending with the trees. So far, he has not done anything about the trees that are causing all his issues.

His lesson has made it very clear to me that the trees have to be removed before installing the fence. Where I am going to install this, I'm almost done removing trees. The more trees that I remove, the more I like my place!!!
 
/ horses and goat fencing #30  
When my neighbor bought his land, the very first thing that he did was hire a fencing company to run five strand barb wire around his property and also divide it into pastures. I believe he said that he got a deal at a buck a foot for them to do this and he spent over $30,000

Every winter, the pine trees drop branches on it and by the time Spring arrives, he has a dozen areas that have been destroyed. He has never had any livestock, he changed his mind on that and leaves all his gates wide open. Every couple of years he'll fix the fence, but it's never ending with the trees. So far, he has not done anything about the trees that are causing all his issues.

His lesson has made it very clear to me that the trees have to be removed before installing the fence. Where I am going to install this, I'm almost done removing trees. The more trees that I remove, the more I like my place!!!

My experience with high tensile fence wire is that a tree that falls on it doesn't damage anything, in fact when you cut said tree on each side of the fence it will spring back up and into place as if nothing had ever been on it.
Also keep in mind that while it has spring tension up it will send branches flipping and flying when they are detattched from the tree.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Definitely adds to my thinking to spend a little more and get the best that I can now and save money in the long term.
 
/ horses and goat fencing #32  
We bordered a preserved wood lot on one side of our last place with some poplar trees being an easy three feet in diameter along with various oaks, etc. For a bit of extra insurance, I used those two piece galvanized springs on each row. On the occasion that something fell, I lost plastic clips and staples but once I had the tree cut off of the fence the tensile wire always sprang back up.
 
/ horses and goat fencing #34  
Eddie,
I'm not sure you need to truly buy high tensile fence, but rather run a high tensile wire above what ever fence you install. Run that top wire with a spring and tensioner and you should be fine. That's what I do with my fence. I actually ran 48" tall 2" x 4" woven wire fence with a high tensile 12.5ga. twisted smooth strand at the bottom that I hog ring the fence to , this keeps animals from pushing under it, I run a second high tensile 12.5 ga smooth twisted wire at the fence top that I hog ring the top of the fence to and then I run a third high tensile 12.5ga smooth twisted 2-3 " above that. If I need a hot wire, I can use the insulated t-pole standoffs between the second and third wire at the top of the fence.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#35  
How far apart are you posts and T posts with the 2x4 woven wire fence that you installed?
 
/ horses and goat fencing #36  
I put the t-posts 8' apart and put a rigid pipe line post every 5 t-posts. I bought 200' rolls of woven fence and installed a welded pipe H (actually 2 posts and a top and bottom rail) that I used to pull the wire tight.

I've seen salvaged cable for sale on craigslist. You could run that above the wire fence and I've seen the heavy springs for sale at the metal supply places. That would hold up to any tree branches falling.
 
/ horses and goat fencing
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Thanks. I was thinking ten feet, but did a search for recommendations and 8 feet seems to be the best option.
 
/ horses and goat fencing #38  
Eddie,
These are my two favorite tools for doing fencing
3-hole wire twister
I modified mine by cutting 1/2" off the handle and drilling the middle hole larger so it will work better for the 2" x 4" woven fence

Clip bender

The third indispensable tool is long handle or compound lever diagonal cutters.
 
/ horses and goat fencing #39  

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