How are GOOD trailers wired?

[Willl]

How are GOOD trailers wired?

WITHOUT scotch blocks.

 

[Ford tractor]

Buy good quality trailer wiring that is one continuous piece from the truck plug to the lights. Never a break, never a scotch lock, never a splice.

I run my 5x10 homemade trailer in the woods, over trees, rocks, tops, etc all the time. The wire was run inside 3/4" thick wall square tube that was welded to the bottom of the frame. Why? I foresaw the damage from having repaired lots of wires! The wire inside the tube is inside plastic spiral protector. No chaffing, no shorting.

I put the lights on the back of the fenders with angled cage under them that doubles as a step and protects the fenders from getting bent onto the tires. When I back into things the lights are protected and the trailer just bounces off. I say "when" as it's just a matter of when and how much damage will be done.

If you are still collecting parts, get a torsion sprung axle. Greater clearance as there is NO cross shaft hanging down low to get hung on stumps, etc. Also fewer parts to deal with and maintain. It's been towed for 12-14 years now and only had one failure. Crossed a dry creek with a full load and the tongue got bent because it wasn't built strongly enough (oops). It is now. The lights and wires are still original but new bulbs have been swapped in.

 

[Travelover]

From my experience working at a trailer rental as a youngin' :

Solder all connections

Most problems are due to a bad ground. Run a separate ground wire or solder all grounds to the chassis. (Yes you can solder copper to steel)

Cage tail light and protect pig tail at tongue from pinching and pulling.

 

[rjkobbeman]

From my experience working at a trailer rental as a youngin' :

Solder all connections

Most problems are due to a bad ground. Run a separate ground wire or solder all grounds to the chassis. (Yes you can solder copper to steel)

Cage tail light and protect pig tail at tongue from pinching and pulling.

I cannot agree more. Most problems are due to a bad ground. Most problems are due to a bad ground. Most problems are due to a bad ground.

Wierd things happen with lights and bad grounds. I KNOW this... and it still trips me up sometimes. (I will approach a problem the wrong way because I THINK I am more experienced and know better. Turns out "back to basics" works every time!)

Running a separate ground wire to each device is a GREAT idea. I am currently fixing a problem associated with just that. I have a trailer with a tilt bed. (Basic single-axle 5x10.) The ground wire from the tow vehicle is anchored to the trailer chassic OK.. but what I finally figured out is the pivot-point of the trailer is rusty. The trailer is basically two pieces. The ground wire is on one piece and the lights are on the other.

 

[mbrule]

All great ideas, however, I see and have no problem with grounding to the frame (4 different trailers 2 of which I wired), it is a fine conductor. Just connect properly with bolts and star lock washers.

The problem I do see with relying on the frame is not running a ground wire from the truck connector to the frame and relying on the ball or pintle, this will give intermittant problems everytime!

Just my .02!

 

[Car Doc]

I'm working on building a heavy duty 5x10 utility trailer and I'm getting close to wiring it. I don't want to go cheap here since it seems like every other trailer I own the wiring is crap, lights work intermittently, and every time they have to be inspected I have to fix numerous connections, etc.

So, what is the preferred method for wiring a trailer? A couple things I can think of is to run every thing in conduit and avoid using any scotch lock connectors (solder everything I guess). Any other tips, pics, etc of good quality trailer wiring or how yall wired trailers you built would be great.

Thanks.

Yup just like that conduit,watertight junction box's,solder and shrink and use a good multi-strand insulated trailer wire, I like having extra wires in mine just because...and have the pig tail removable up front (junction box) because it will get replaced the most from my experience anyway. hth :thumbsup:

 

[rjkobbeman]

All great ideas, however, I see and have no problem with grounding to the frame (4 different trailers 2 of which I wired), it is a fine conductor. Just connect properly with bolts and star lock washers.

The problem I do see with relying on the frame is not running a ground wire from the truck connector to the frame and relying on the ball or pintle, this will give intermittant problems everytime!

Just my .02!

That should work... until you get into the situation I mentioned. In that case, you (I) have to add another ground strap from one piece of the trailer to the other.

Also, you gotta make sure your lights are grounded good too. Mine aren't so I am going to start from scratch and do it right. I have been putting this off for quite some time! :thumbsup:

 

[grnspot110]

I prefer metal conduit for the wiring, welded to the frame. Also agree on grounding to the frame, as long as you have good contact to a clean spot on the frame, no problems. Three of my four trailers are wired this way, the fourth (a small Snowco) is wired through the frame tubing. ~~ grnspot110

 

[Soundguy]

led lights are great due to decreased load.. less power.. less grounding issues.

everyone has seen the blinking brake lamps and pulsing e-brake problems.. along with the standard/ bad ground..

I go overkill.. clean metal on chassie with ground there AND ground to each lamp.. ie.. chassie is parallel.. then of course.. paint over after the connection is made.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

WITHOUT scotch blocks.

those would be scotch locks....

soundguy