How big are your hog nuts?

caylor · Jun 8, 2005

Dangerous Subject Line I know, but I could not resist. I have a Ashley Brooks, dba World Agritech IM Series Rotary Cutter, Model IM600. I need to remove/inspect/sharpen the blades, but I know I do not have a socket big enough to fit over the blade nut.

Can anybody with this set up lead me in right direction for socket size? (I know I need to invest in a cheap caliper to measure such things, but I have not yet) Thanks in advance.

Chris

have_blue · Jun 8, 2005

Ha ha... I call those "Jesus nuts".

Mine are so big I don't even bother to measure them. I don't have any Super Jumbo stuff. I would have to buy a set of SJ sockets and a long 3/4" breaker bar, or a set of SJ combination wrenches. As far as I know, that's the only thing on my tractor and implements that's SJ, so I just sharpen them on the 'hog. If it ever starts vibrating from imbalamce, I will borrow a wrench. **

**Buying just 1 socket or wrench is out. Everywhere I have looked, buying 1 is about the same price as a small set. Phooey on that! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RobS · Jun 8, 2005

I don't know how big yours are Chris but when you get into the bigger sizes you can probably measure with a tape measure and get the right size. On mine, the bolts/nuts holding the blades to the holder are pretty big but the bolt holding the blade holder to the shaft was surprisingly small. The shaft and holder are splined so the bolt doesn't have to carry the torque load, only the axial load. I had to take mine off to replace the gearbox seal and it was pretty easy. It would have been a breeze to sharpen the blades at that point but mine wouldn't stay sharp long /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jagmandave · Jun 8, 2005

On my Howse hog, the nuts are on top of the stump jumper plate, so it wasn't really possible to get them off while the plate was on, had to drop the plate first anyway. Once the plate was down, the biggest baddest cresent wrench I had did the job.
My biggest problem is with wrapping stuff around the blade pivot, cause then they don't pivot anymore!

dliston · Jun 8, 2005

Just off the top of my head, I think the ones on my 72" International are 2 1/8"

Bought a set of 3/4" Craftsman sockets/drives on Ebay for about $100. Don't use them much, but they are IMPRESSIVE to look at!

Doug /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

hobbyfarm · Jun 8, 2005

caylor,
You might be further ahead to buy a slugging wrench. By the time you buy the sockets and the drive device, it will be $$$$$.

Slugging wrench is only $$. Do a google on slugging wrench.

sweettractors · Jun 8, 2005

I think? 42MM on that cutter, be best to measure to be sure-Ken Sweet

PineRidge · Jun 8, 2005

I do like have_blue, I tip the deck up against something sturdy and hit it with the angle grinder. Haven't needed to remove a blade yet and have a brand new pair of spares to fit.

Charolais · Jun 8, 2005

I removed the stump jumper with the blades still on last fall to tighten the gear box bolts. This is on a KK 7' HD. One thing I noticed and never heard or seen any nuts like them. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif They had a little dab of spot weld on them both. So when I have to change the blades I'll have to grind that off to remove the nuts. This may just be a KK thing. I've had several Hardee and Bush Hog brands in the past and never seen them tack welded on like that.

If I hadn't removed the stump jumper and seen them, I can just picture myself trying to take them off, cussing, using a 8' piece of cheater pipe on the 3/4 drive and spending lots of time for nothing. So it's good to inspect your nuts. Isn't it? /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I'll be glad I did when it comes time to remove them.

cisco · Jun 8, 2005

Common issue, for folks who have the desire to change blades yearly. Many look at the bolt/nut holding on the blades, and give up. Others try to figure out what will fit, get something, and try to loosen the nut with a standard 1' or 2' handle on the socket - good luck. Takes an air driven 3/4" drive to get the nuts off on my 72" Woods. The dealer also used a blow torch when doing the job for me the first time. The size was 1 11/16", and you can get such at ACE hardware for about $12 (I first bought a 1 1/2", thinking that was a logical size, and "looked about right", but no dice - who, I mean WHO, comes up with a rare size like 1 11/16"). Anyhow, for routine maintenance, the angle grinder routine is fine. Note that most folks, unless they take their tractor to the dealer for maintenance, never change the brush cutter blades (at least if it's a larger and heavy duty unit), just too darn hard, or they don't have the proper equipment.

bitternut · Jun 9, 2005

I have a Long 6' brush hog that I have owned for at least 12 years. I take the blades off a couple times a season to sharpen them with my 4-1/2" angle grinder with a flap disc. I picked up a used cheapo 3/4" drive socket set at a auction that works very well for removing the blades. My mower has a hole in the top of the deck for accessing the nuts. The bolt is a special bolt that has a key and prevents the bolt from rotating. Just take the nut and lockwasher off, tap the bolt and the bolt and blade fall to the ground. Very simple to remove and replace the blade. Never really looked at other mowers to see how you would access the blades. Sounds like some mowers did not make provisions for blade removal. By the way I only paid about $30 for the socket set. They are not great tools but they serve the purpose for this job.

KubotaTrax · Jun 9, 2005

Pipe wrench and a 2*4 to wedge the blade is all U need. Does a good job /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

JLoaf · Jun 9, 2005

I have a 6' BUSH HOG "Squealer".
The nuts are 1 11/16".
I didn't have a socket large enough, so I raised my bush hog
as high as I could, shored it up, and crawled under it with a 4 1/2" grinder.
I couldn't sharpen the blades as well as I would have liked,
but I was able to improve the edge.

Hagar · Jun 9, 2005

1 11/16", I have an Agri-supply catalog that lists wrench sets yet they sell the 1 11/16" by itself. I always wondered why.

have_blue · Jun 9, 2005

( 1 11/16", I have an Agri-supply catalog that lists wrench sets yet they sell the 1 11/16" by itself. I always wondered why. )

I'll have to get my measuring stick and check it out. I don't mind buying 1 air wrench socket if it's reasonably priced.

Slamfire · Jun 9, 2005

Both my 6' pull behind Swisher, and my 4' no name 3 point have 1 11/16" nuts on the blades. They are above the stump jumper. I bought a set of Chinese combination wrenches for $13, and enlarged the open end of the 1 5/8" one. It is the only use I have for it, but the 1 1/4" works on the locknut of my side link and the 1 1/2" takes off the stump jumper nut. Had to do that last week when I wrapped about 3" of fence wire around the shaft. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Tilted the mower forward on a sheet of plywood, very slightly downhill, and didn't have any trouble. One thing I can't understand though is how'd I end up with two 1 3/8" wrenches. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Muhammad · Jun 10, 2005

Dangerous Subject Line I know, but I could not resist.

Try harder next time. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

DMF · Jun 13, 2005

1 & 11/16 on my Massey Ferguson 60" Rotary Cutter; I'm not sure who makes it for them. I bought a 3/4" drive socket, 8" extension, and a sliding "T" handle wrench from Grainger. They are a little pricey but they give a pretty good discount to Mass Farm Bureau members. I've never had a problem taking them off. Now for another question: do any of you balance the blades and how? I just weighed mine and "balanced" them by getting them as close to the same weight as each other. Seems to work...

Fireman_dcb · Jun 13, 2005

Sorry, but I don't recall the size off the top of my head - they are over 2", but I went to the local NAPA dealer and bought the socket and a 3/4" to 1/2" drive adapter for under 45 bucks and use a 3' piece of pipe to help break the nuts loose when I need to sharpen up the blades.