How can I build a road up this hill

[4570Man]

If you're just compacting it by driving that tractor back and forth over it, that isn't gonna be enough compaction for a lasting ramp and it's gonna wash out over time. The tractor doesn't have much more PSI on the ground than a large person in size 10 shoes.

I agree. He really needs to dig off the top and leave the bottom alone. It it possible to do a good compaction job by just driving on it but the moisture level has to be right.

 

[PILOON]

You also want to address water issues, i.e. ditches on uphill sides or you'll wash out.

For top dressing Crushed asphalt is your best bet, heat sticks it back together in a short while and water has a much harder time to wash it out.
On muddy or 'top soil like' areas use some geotextile under your top dressing.

Barring availability of crushed asphalt (it's generally cheaper) then crushed stone is the next choice,

Must emphasise to not use any top soil as it will always be greasy and slippery when wet as well as it will always wash out.

pS, our city is now always using Crushed Asphalt on all our gravel/dirt roads, especially on hills, and maintenance is minimal even after heavy rains.

 

[ultrarunner]

I've done similar several locations and it has always been planned and implemented around optimal conditions.

Rain simply means I need to reschedule... but it is also a chance to see spots needing improvement.

About 10 years ago I had once run that became a sloppy mess with the first storm... thought it would never be anything usable...

Years of driving on it when I could and adding a couple of water bars with local shale I found in a bank has made it year round usable... all done with the BX 23.

The quick and dirty fix is the way builders rough in around here in South Sound Olympia... they clear and drop in truck loads of rock up to almost bowling ball size so the dump trucks and material trucks don't sink during the construction phase... having heavy cement trucks and such really forces the material into native soil...

 

[hslogger]

I am seeing somewhat rounded glacial river rock, another clue to lasting soil stability in your locale.

 

[Texasmark]

Most roads are not built going straight up the mountain. Start and go at an angles. This makes the ramp longer and less angle. When doing any road, make sure the direction the water is going to run. Look to stop erosion before it starts.

1) +1.........

2) Agree no fill vs existing "packed" soil, tree roots to hold it and such.

3) Agree on old hay bales to direct the water that "will? come unless the lot drains to the side or rear away from road.

 

[Texasmark]

You also want to address water issues, i.e. ditches on uphill sides or you'll wash out.

For top dressing Crushed asphalt is your best bet, heat sticks it back together in a short while and water has a much harder time to wash it out.
On muddy or 'top soil like' areas use some geotextile under your top dressing.

Barring availability of crushed asphalt (it's generally cheaper) then crushed stone is the next choice,

Must emphasise to not use any top soil as it will always be greasy and slippery when wet as well as it will always wash out.

pS, our city is now always using Crushed Asphalt on all our gravel/dirt roads, especially on hills, and maintenance is minimal even after heavy rains.

Being in the Dallas area, plenty of crushed asphalt and concrete available for road "base". Cheap too: locally available, recycle material making it good for everybody/thing, works great, looks good. A lot of driveways never get above the "base rock" stage....no need if packed good and drainage away from the surface is planned....ditches and crowns.

 

[coldsteelva]

Not to try and spend your money, but I'm not sure those turf tires are the right tires for the surface you are trying to drive on. I think a set of ag tires and perhaps a bit of 3-pt ballast might help you in the traction department. Once you climb to the top, then you should be able to easily work downhill.

 

[Seamonster124]

Not to try and spend your money, but I'm not sure those turf tires are the right tires for the surface you are trying to drive on. I think a set of ag tires and perhaps a bit of 3-pt ballast might help you in the traction department. Once you climb to the top, then you should be able to easily work downhill.

I have a ballast on it. Usually I run out of HP before the tires spin. Appearantly, they do not make non-turf tires for the BX1880....Even if I find them, once my big projects are don, I'll be on turf most of the time. I'm not on a schedule here so I'll just layp for a year two till finished.

 

[ZTMAN]

Did you consider using a box blade to attack from the top. Move the top part of the slope to the bottom? Those little 48" BB move a lot of dirt.

 

[Seamonster124]

Did you consider using a box blade to attack from the top. Move the top part of the slope to the bottom? Those little 48" BB move a lot of dirt.

Other suggested this but as of now getting the tractor up there is impossible. Even if I winch it up there some how, it'll be stuck up there for a long time and I need it for other stuff on hte lower level.