rambler
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2003
- Messages
- 2,010
- Location
- MN
- Tractor
- Ford 960, 7700, TW20, 1720; IHC H, 300; Ollie S77
I run a 7 foot snowblower on the 3pt hitch of a 27 hp rated tractor. That is a tad underpowered, but it works fine. Tractor has a good slow rear gear set.
Running forwards, you will have a lot of slow gears to pick from.
So it sounds like you want to run a 6.25 foot snow blower. And you are picking a 35 hp rated tractor to do so. And you want to do it with hydraulics.
So we get this distilled down to the basics:
25 hp should run the blower - some magic manufaturer's hp rating doesn't really matter, they are just considering their gearcase & shaft sizes..... You might be happier & can go faster with 40 hp running it, and it might actually use no more than 15 hp some of the time. But, the blower itself should run on 25 raw hp fairly well most of the time. Correct?
Your tractor, at 35 hp - assuming a pto rating - will put out 35 hp to the pto. With the hydaulics 80% efficient, leaves 28 hp. Driving your tractor around probably is taking 5 hp away tho to move the machine, so you will be left with 30 pto hp to devote to this - so 30 hp minus the 20% leaves 24 hp to run the blower. (If the 35hp is the engine rating, then you need to reconsider this - you don't have enough available hp to go hydaulic...)
That is doable, it will not be great, but it will work. Are you a hotrodder & need to blow fast & far & show off, or are you fine with plodding along when the conditions are deep and you end up in a creeper gear?
The concept will work, but you are in marginal area.
Foget about tying your tractor and a pto unit together using both pumps. That is _complicated_, what will it do to your loader arms, 3pt lift speed, etc? You'd have to match psi, open & closed center, get flow rates right - don't. It's technically possible, but good engineers will scatch their heads a long time to design a system that works on a skid steer, and need special parts. Just don't.
You are gonna need a hyd pto pump that is rated for 30-35 hp input/output, and a matching hyd motor that gives you the correct 540 revolutions at full hp. Basically that is what you will have available, so that is what you got, and that is what you might as well design for. You sure don't want less, and you don't have more available, so we can talk a long time about different options, but doesn't do any good because you have what you have.
You need a resivoir big enough to hold enough oil to cool it down as it cycles through. If you have a mile long driveway & make 2 laps of continous operation then you really really need to pay attention to resivoir size & oil temperature. High pressure means more cooling. We can't just pick 2 gallons, or 10 gallons - you need to look up the pump you are getting, and it's pressures & displacements, and if you are using it constantly or intermitently. The place you buy your components (Surplus Center, Prince?) could really help you with a ballpark idea if you can fill in these blanks for them.
This setup will be spendy, and it will be somewhat boarderline in operation. It'll work, but you might feel a tad underpowered in heavy conditions.
But really it is a slam dunk - it is what you are working with, so it is what you will end up doing. Pump displacement & pressure can be different, but you are starting at 30 hp & delivering 24 hp to the blower - that is what you have, and that is where you will need to be. That's really all the info you need to worry about.
Call the places up, tell then these details, and see what pump/motor combinations they have available. It's pretty simple.
Trying to tie in the existing pump, and all the fretting - your tractor has 35 hp. It won't change however you try to tap it in different ways.
Get the pto pump, that makes the whole setup easy to move to a different tractor or sell to the next person if it doesn't fit your needs.
Get your order in, screw the hoses on, and get going - I'm west of you & we are in the middle of a 24 hour blizzard - you need the thing.
Me, I much prefer the simplicity of a rear 3pt blower, so simple to hook on, all power is available, the weight is on the rear wheels where the best traction is, and I have the loader up front to deal with hard banks and cleanup. Really wouldn't want the complexity of what you are setting up. But that's just me.
--->Paul
Running forwards, you will have a lot of slow gears to pick from.
So it sounds like you want to run a 6.25 foot snow blower. And you are picking a 35 hp rated tractor to do so. And you want to do it with hydraulics.
So we get this distilled down to the basics:
25 hp should run the blower - some magic manufaturer's hp rating doesn't really matter, they are just considering their gearcase & shaft sizes..... You might be happier & can go faster with 40 hp running it, and it might actually use no more than 15 hp some of the time. But, the blower itself should run on 25 raw hp fairly well most of the time. Correct?
Your tractor, at 35 hp - assuming a pto rating - will put out 35 hp to the pto. With the hydaulics 80% efficient, leaves 28 hp. Driving your tractor around probably is taking 5 hp away tho to move the machine, so you will be left with 30 pto hp to devote to this - so 30 hp minus the 20% leaves 24 hp to run the blower. (If the 35hp is the engine rating, then you need to reconsider this - you don't have enough available hp to go hydaulic...)
That is doable, it will not be great, but it will work. Are you a hotrodder & need to blow fast & far & show off, or are you fine with plodding along when the conditions are deep and you end up in a creeper gear?
The concept will work, but you are in marginal area.
Foget about tying your tractor and a pto unit together using both pumps. That is _complicated_, what will it do to your loader arms, 3pt lift speed, etc? You'd have to match psi, open & closed center, get flow rates right - don't. It's technically possible, but good engineers will scatch their heads a long time to design a system that works on a skid steer, and need special parts. Just don't.
You are gonna need a hyd pto pump that is rated for 30-35 hp input/output, and a matching hyd motor that gives you the correct 540 revolutions at full hp. Basically that is what you will have available, so that is what you got, and that is what you might as well design for. You sure don't want less, and you don't have more available, so we can talk a long time about different options, but doesn't do any good because you have what you have.
You need a resivoir big enough to hold enough oil to cool it down as it cycles through. If you have a mile long driveway & make 2 laps of continous operation then you really really need to pay attention to resivoir size & oil temperature. High pressure means more cooling. We can't just pick 2 gallons, or 10 gallons - you need to look up the pump you are getting, and it's pressures & displacements, and if you are using it constantly or intermitently. The place you buy your components (Surplus Center, Prince?) could really help you with a ballpark idea if you can fill in these blanks for them.
This setup will be spendy, and it will be somewhat boarderline in operation. It'll work, but you might feel a tad underpowered in heavy conditions.
But really it is a slam dunk - it is what you are working with, so it is what you will end up doing. Pump displacement & pressure can be different, but you are starting at 30 hp & delivering 24 hp to the blower - that is what you have, and that is where you will need to be. That's really all the info you need to worry about.
Call the places up, tell then these details, and see what pump/motor combinations they have available. It's pretty simple.
Trying to tie in the existing pump, and all the fretting - your tractor has 35 hp. It won't change however you try to tap it in different ways.
Get the pto pump, that makes the whole setup easy to move to a different tractor or sell to the next person if it doesn't fit your needs.
Get your order in, screw the hoses on, and get going - I'm west of you & we are in the middle of a 24 hour blizzard - you need the thing.
Me, I much prefer the simplicity of a rear 3pt blower, so simple to hook on, all power is available, the weight is on the rear wheels where the best traction is, and I have the loader up front to deal with hard banks and cleanup. Really wouldn't want the complexity of what you are setting up. But that's just me.
--->Paul
