How Do I Raise My Water Pressure?

[boggen]

Not to hijack the thread, but while we are on the subject...

On a home that is being built for me in FL, I'm having them put in the Manabloc system and am putting in 1-SH, 1-Body Spray and 1-handheld with diverters in MBR on county pressure of I think, 80 psi. 1/2" pex or larger?

Thanks scesnick.

1 shower head
1 body spray
1 hand held shower head.

OPTION A
do you want hot and cold water for each one?
hot water knob -> shower head <- cold water knob
hot water knob -> body spray <- cold water knob
hot water knob -> hand held shower head <- cold water knob
for a total of 6 valves.... assume 3 total anti scold mixing tees. between hot and cold water and what ever water is going to.

OPTION B
or perhaps...
do you want hot and cold water for each one?
hot and cold water single knob with anti scold mixing tee -> shower head
hot and cold water single knob with anti scold mixing tee -> body spray
hot and cold water single knob with anti scold mixing tee -> hand held shower head
for a total of 3 knobs and 3 anti schold mixing tees.

OPTION C
or do you want single hot water and single could water valve. and then a valve going to each thing....
hot water knob -> mixing tee (anti scold) <- cold water
from mixing tee -> tee (b) -> valve -> shower head
tee (b) -> tee (c) -> valve -> body spray
tee (c) -> valve -> hand held shower head
for a total of 5 knobs if using individual knobs. and a single anti scold mixing tee.

OPTION D
or do you want...
hot and cold water single knob with anti scold mixing tee ->
from mixing tee -> tee (b) -> valve -> shower head
tee (b) -> tee (c) -> valve -> body spray
tee (c) -> valve -> hand held shower head
for a total of 4 knobs and a single mixing tee.

=============
pending on what option you go with, can predict what size pipe you run between everything and if you use 1/2" to up to 1" pipe.

option A and option B, more likely 1" pipe for both hot and cold water coming from cold water line int house and hot water heater. and then tee off with 1/2" pipe to each valve near the shower

option C and option D, more likely need to buy a bigger 1" valve/s for hot and cold water. and then 1" tees, and then come off with 1/2" with 1/2" valve then to each (spray head, body spray, hand held)

===============
i realize other folks say you can use 3/4" as min pipe size. but personally prefer something a little bit bigger. from filling up bath tub, to other, i do not want to wait around for it to fill up. any friction loss i can reduce, i will do so within reason of course, i want more GPM of water. and i will spend a little more for the bigger size pipe.

 

[Pixguy]

1 shower head
1 body spray
1 hand held shower head.

PMing you so I don't take up space here.

 

[TCJatko]

" anti scold mixing tee " Wish I had one of these for the wife..

 

[creekbend]

I have read the previous posts in this thread and it appears that no one has mentioned filters. I didn't read any mention of a filtration system. Does the OP have a water softener and filtration system? Just a thought. When I had our well dug around 15 years ago, I had a water softener and filtration system installed. Our son-in-law, who is a plumber, and I did all the installation including the lines from the pump house to our Home. We have 2 bathrooms equipped with both a tub and a shower. Our well is 446 feet deep - granite. I was going to drill down to 460 foot, but the drill operator advised against any further drilling because we were already in the second vein of the aquifer and he didn't want to bust through. Whenever I am using a water hose hooked up to one of our two outside water hydrants and the water pressure goes down, I know that it is time to replace the filter. Immediately after installing a new filter, the water pressure returns to normal. It amazes me just how tough granite dust is when it collects on the filter. It impedes all flow of water and if you scrape off the outside of the filter on a piece of cardboard, it has the consistency of cement slurry. This may not be the solution in regards to the difficulty that the OP is experiencing, but I think that, if and indeed the OP has a similar system installed, it would be prudent to check the filter. Just a thought?

 

[Egon]

Booster pump can only work if the well pump rate is above that of the booster pump!:thumbsup:

 

[Artisan]

I have not read this whole post, I can tell you there is a huge difference between Pressure and Volumn. Most homeowners refer to a pressure
drop when actually the pressure remains the same, it simply was not sized big enough, to obtain the proper VOLUMN of water.

I think you said you have 4 body sprays and a shower head right?

If each spray puts out the volumn of water of one shower head you
basically have 5 shower heads you are trying to run off one supply,
and I bet ya that supply line is only 1/2" !

Licensed contractors whom are trained in the trade usually know better
and would recommend everything from a larger water heater to 3/4"
runs to 3/4" full port valves, possibly 1", ALSO .

Them pictures on TV make it look oh so nice...

With enough pressure sometimes you can get away w/ "some" things.
Of corse testing things in the "rough" stage is out of the question
for the low bidder has no money to do such things.

"I" test every tub and shower valve I install BEFORE walls are put up.
Twice in my life I have found defects that required new valves, of
corse the client never knew this, just a plumber who cross his i's
and dots his t's doing his job, and paid WELL to do it.

the cheap guy gives cheap...impo$$ible for him to do more...pay me now
or pay me later...

 

[638]

Perhaps the shower valve itself is the source of the restriction.

 

[TRR]

There are federal laws that determine how much water (gallons per minute) are allowed to be used in shower heads which is 2.5 gpm. The multiple heads also have a limit and are typically controlled by the valve itself and is normally set for 4 gpm. You are volume limited by the valve.

As for the shower head drilling out the restrictor will increase the volume. But the valve is more of a challenge, although enlarging the internal openings (if possible) would help.

P.S. How's that for the government in the shower with you?

 

[JohninCT]

Ok. I have 4 of these in the wall http://www.luxartcollection.com/ProdDetails.aspx?co=Luxart&Model=LSBS

And one of these http://www.luxartcollection.com/ProdDetails.aspx?co=Luxart&Model=LP4SH

These shower heads are rated for 2.5 gpm @ 80 psi. From this you can determine the shower head flow coefficient Cv by the equation Q=Cv * sqrt(dP) where Q is flow in gpm and dP is pressure drop in psi. So you know Q is 2.5 gpm and dP is 80 psi. cv then can be calculated as 0.28 now that you know Cv you can calculate the flow rate for any other pressure drop.... Say 40 psi. Which would calculate to 1.8 gpm per shower head. Like others have said big lines up to the shower heads to reduce piping friction loss(maximize available pressure and flow).

 

[scesnick]

Ok,so you guys are pretty much saying I need to run 3/4" pipe up as close as possible to the showerheads right? This can be done fairly easily right now since the otherside of the shower wall is getting re modeled also and the basement ceiling is open still.
Oh, and the rest of the house is 3/4" coppper.

But, my question is this, if flow and volume are the culprit, then why is are the showerheads only 1/2" to begin with?

Also, I am assuming I only need to take the 3/4" up to the diverter valve since all the showerheads work off that diverter. right?