How Do I Raise My Water Pressure?

[Qapla]

In areas where there is sulfur in the water a sulfur aerator tank is used to help with the smelly water. Many of these are simply a large holding tank with a fill valve that allows the water to be sprayed into the tank and the tank has a lid that has a screen built in to allow the sulfur smell out and keep bugs/debris out.

These tanks use the current well pump to fill the tank and then uses another pump to deliver the water to the house. This may be a partial solution to your situation as it would not matter how much pressure and GPM your well pump is delivering because you could just install a pump sufficient for the shower at the tank with the needed GPM.

This will not help with the hot water side - not sure what to say there

 

[SPYDERLK]

Ok,so you guys are pretty much saying I need to run 3/4" pipe up as close as possible to the showerheads right? This can be done fairly easily right now since the otherside of the shower wall is getting re modeled also and the basement ceiling is open still.
Oh, and the rest of the house is 3/4" coppper.

But, my question is this, if flow and volume are the culprit, then why is are the showerheads only 1/2" to begin with?
Also, I am assuming I only need to take the 3/4" up to the diverter valve since all the showerheads work off that diverter. right?

Because they are short. Pressure loss occurs during flow. The higher the flow velocity the more pressure loss per unit length of pipe. The pressure loss in the 1/2" lead ins is OK for the shower head design as long as you maintain the correct pressure to them during flow. Your house piping feeding them is relatively long so itll need to be bigger to limit the flow velocity and therefore the pressure lost between the source tank and the 1/2" lead ins.
larry

 

[Artisan]

Ok,so you guys are pretty much saying I need to run 3/4" pipe up as close as possible to the showerheads right?
snip

That is not all of it...NOPE. You need a 3/4" VALVE as well, then from the
outlet run 3/4 to the first two outlets and 1/2 there after. You test
everything BEFORE you close the walls! If it simply will not work you
need to down size how many outlets you have, easy.

There is absolute theory, schoolbook stuff then there is what works.
When I plumb a home, no more than 2 fixtures pull off a 1/2 line, no
more than 4 off a 3/4" then up from there. Run a 3/4 or 1" line from
the service entrance to the water heater, do NOT feed abunch of stuff
w/ a cold water line then hit the water heater! School books are great
but there is a black art to it. You sense things by seeing it all.
I can't see it all, there could be other issues or I could change my mind.

Post some clear large format pictures of things...

You water service, that pipe from the meter to the house, is it 3/4? If so
replace it w/ 1" as well. If it is old steel, the inside of that pipe is
restricted big time I bet causing huge friction loss.

Go w/ 10' of metalic piping in the ground at the home and the rest pvc
w/ as few 90* bends as possible. Larger meters can help too.

Change out your shut off valve as well.

 

[scesnick]

Ok, I have this diverter http://www.luxartcollection.com/ProdDetails.aspx?co=Luxart&Model=LS900

As you can see, this diverter has 1/2" inlets and outlets. It is designed for the sole purpose to run these multiple showerheads. I can only take the 3/4" up to the inlet of this diverter. Then i have to run 1/2" from the diverter outlets to the showerheads. I have no choice really.

So, if I run 3/4" up to this diverter, choke it down to 1/2" right at the diverter inlet. And i have plenty of volume and PSI. Then that is all I can do to make this shower work correctly. AM i missing something here?

I have a well sysytem with 1hp pump and 1" supply pipe.. I have gobs and gobs of volume and pressure at my hose bib which is coming from a 3/4'copper pipe.

 

[Egon]

Some places each fixture has it's own line run from a manifold at the supply entrance to the house.:thumbsup:

 

[Qapla]

BTW - if the inlets of the diverter are Female, they do make reducing Male adapters. They are 3/4" PVC Slip in and 1/2" Male thread out. Of course, PVC only works for the COLD side. You would need CPVC or Copper for the HOT side.

Also, keep in mind that CPVC and Copper 1/2" and 3/4" AND PVC 1/2" and 3/4" are not the same. CPVC and Copper are "outside" measurements (nominal) while PVC measurements are "inside" measurements (nominal)

If you are using CPVC, you may want to take each pipe to the next size up.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Also, keep in mind that CPVC and Copper 1/2" and 3/4" AND PVC 1/2" and 3/4" are not the same. CPVC and Copper are "outside" measurements (nominal) while PVC measurements are "inside" measurements (nominal)

If you are using CPVC, you may want to take each pipe to the next size up.

...:thumbsup:

 

[crazyal]

I'm not a plumber but I can tell you how my shower is plumbed from the factory. It's a MAAX that came with the shower head, faucet, 6 massage jets and a shower wand.

It came set up to have 3/4" plumbed to it. Both copper lines went to the 3/4" mixing valve. The output from that went to a second 3/4" valve. That valve directs water to the diverter valve or the massage heads. The Diverter has four 1/2" ports. The diverter valve just selects flow to either the shower head, the faucet, or the wand. It also has a position that shuts off the water flow.

Since each of the three lines coming off of the diverter only go to one fixture so 1/2" is fine. But the valve before it, the one that feeds the massage heads is 3/4" because it feeds 6 heads. It's sole function is to turn the water on and off for the massage heads. It allows water to pass through it to the Diverter valve.

I have my pressure set at 35 to 65 psi and at 35 I just start to notice the water dropping off. Because of my well I really don't want to increase the top end past 65. I would try running 3/4" to your shower since it will reduce any loss in the pipe. If you need to increase the pressure more you could run into other problems. For me my pump is 500 ft down in my well and my house sits about 50 higher than the well. I'm right on the edge of what 200 psi abs pipe can handle.

 

[boggen]

Ok,so you guys are pretty much saying I need to run 3/4" pipe up as close as possible to the showerheads right? This can be done fairly easily right now since the otherside of the shower wall is getting re modeled also and the basement ceiling is open still.
Oh, and the rest of the house is 3/4" coppper.

depends, could you draw up a diagram. or type up something like i did. to show how you are planing to hook everything up.

if all water is going through a single 3/4 valve. to run 5 shower heads. you may be in trouble yet again. and you might be better off with splitting things up on a couple hot/cold valves.

But, my question is this, if flow and volume are the culprit, then why is are the showerheads only 1/2" to begin with?

most folks just have a shower head, and then if bathtub as well, just a spout to the bath tub. and water is only going to shower head or bath tub spout. and for that 1/2" is fine. but you are trying to run multi shower heads at one time. and you need the bigger main pipe. to tee off from. to goto each shower head.

Also, I am assuming I only need to take the 3/4" up to the diverter valve since all the showerheads work off that diverter. right?

depends, a diagram or something to show how you plan to set everything up. would help greatly.

 

[Artisan]

Do what ya gotta do but for the luv of it all hook it up and TEST IT. Temp in all heads and turn it on... You don't need to flood the house, 45 seconds and eyes wide open will tell you if "YOU" are happy with it.
"YOU" are the boss, if YOU are happy then GOOD JOB!

test test test...It is Easy to do, you get piece of mind, you KNOW just
what to expect when tile is done and finish parts are set... been there done this hundreds of times...

PS, SAVE ALL PAPERWORK FOR ALL VALVES. If there obscure BUY REPAIR
PARTS NOW AND VACUUM SEAL THEM FOR FUTURE USE. I have never
heard of that Lux whatever brand...they could be in business today and out tomorrow, CAVEAT EMPTOR